Sony_Fan

Just curious, does the battery actually work? i need one of these batteries but not sure if I should get a sony or a generic one. This would be for an MZ-RH10.

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/ele/2724526684.html Free, as is. Unit appears to have problems.

^ Email the seller. She said is moving soon and wants to sell it before hand.

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/ele/2709707803.html Just in case someone in southern california wanted to buy it. I've already emailed the seller and she's legit. Also sent me additional pictures of the unit.

Good deal. Glad you got it sold.

If it really works, i might just take it. PM me.

Just curious, how did it get the sun microsystems logo on it?

That's a nice unit! Any Hi-MD discs?

Seriously? No buyers? $7 shipped. I already have this music on CD.

Has anyone done a test, or is there anyway to test whether ATRAC 24-bit is equal or better than ATRAC Type-R. The only reason I"m asking is because of my experience with Sharp MD recording, and how it was really very much like CD quality. I haven't heard anything even in Sony's line up that can produce the same quality unless you start messing with the EQ settings or changing earphones.

Why doesn't Sony advertise 24-bit encoding like Sharp does? I just wanted know if Sharp's ATRAC 24-bit was superior to ATRAC Type-R.

I've noticed that only Sharp MD recorders come with ATRAC 24-bit encoding, but none of the Sony models have this. Is there a difference in recording quality betweent Type-R and 24-bit ATRAC? Or are they the same? I remember when I had the Sharp 722 MD recorder, the recording quality was very similar to CD quality.

Those screws probably only adjust the alignment of the recording/playback head. Adjusting it can make tapes sound more "clear" or "crisp." They do not however adjust the output volume. You can try opening up the unit and looking inside and looking for round controls (switches) that can be turned clockwise and counter. They should have labels on them indicating if it's for recording or playback, and which deck (a or b deck). I totally understand if you don't want to mess with it.

I have no idea why the pictures are coming out sideways. They don't look like that in my photobucket account. Feel free to ask questions or make offers!

For sale is disc 2 of the Forest Gump Soundtrack on Minidisc. This is an original pre-recorded minidisc. You can read the track listing from the pictures. The front label is missing, it was torn and fading. Also, the black flap that opens and closes is loose and can be moved easily by finger. It does not fall off. This was recorded in ATRAC SP 292kbps and still sounds great! $8 shipped to the U.S. Thanks.

How exactly do I do that? Thanks.

I once opened up a cassette deck and inside you could adjust the output volume for each deck. You would have to look for a small round switch, insert a small flat screw driver and turn it clockwise until desired volume is reached for each channel (left and right). The unit will have to be on so that you can hear the increase in volume coming out from the speakers. These switches have labels on them and show if it's for deck a or deck b. Read them carefully, because there are some other switches that control the recording volume and you don't want to adjust those. Before adjusting any switches, mark them off with a marker so that you know what the original position was, then adjust from there. You could have this fixed yourself and then keep the deck or sell for more. Anyway, good luck!

The directional pad on my MZ-N505 does not work properly. These are the PLAY, STOP, FF, RR buttons in a circular pad. When I push PLAY the unit activates the FF or RR button. The same happens when I push STOP. Is there anyway to fix this? It wasn't doing this when I first got it less than 2 years ago, but now it's annoying and I'm not using it as much. Thanks.

That's good! Withdraw the money out of your paypal account. It will take 3-4 days.

Thanks. I'm really looking into moving away from Minidisc and just using a Sony MP3 player. ATRAC SP 292kbps is the best compression codec out there, no question about it. But recording in real time and then titling the tracks, and finding a way to normalize all the tracks takes too long. So I'd rather just use a real MP3 player and MP3gain.

I was wondering whether or not the bidders are mistaking your unit with the MZ-EH1 (Hi-MD), but your listing clearly shows it is the MZ-E10. So even if they complain later and say, "this wasn't what I thought it was," i don't think you're under any obligation to refund the money.

You're up to $660. As soon as you get paid, withdraw the money into your bank account. But it's possible, because the selling price is so high, that Paypal may withhold the money for 21 days until the buyer sends you positive feedback acknowledging that he/she received the package.

With the current bid at $560, I highly suggest you insure the package and have signature confirmation where the buyer has to sign for the package in order to receive it and it confirms that he/she indeed received the package. This will prevent a dishonest buyer from falsely claiming, "I never got it" or "it doesn't work" or "its broken." Also, check that the bidders are from the U.S. Some non U.S. bidders may try to sneak in a bid or convince you to sell it to them if they win the auction. Unfortunately, in this day and age, there are many countries where the authorities do not crack down on fraudulent buyers and it's very easy for one of them to place really high bids with the intentions of trying to get their money back and keep the package after they've received it. So get it insured, tracked and get it signed!

Apparently these units are rare considering how high the bid is. If only a few were made, or they're hard to find, that will boost up the price even if it surpasses the original cost. The MZ-EH1 (Hi-MD unit) is also rare and expensive.

Thanks, but do they have LINE OUT function in the menu settings?