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  1. 6 points
    Since the "Ultimate" 4.3 version seems to have gained quite a popularity, and appears to be less glitchy than any previous one, I decided to build a second release. This is purely a cosmetic update. What's changed from the first release: 1. Updated Registry Information Setup is used now. This doesn't affect minidisc functionality in any way, but may add support for some newer ATRAC phones (you still need to provide the respective drivers). 2. The link to Minidisc Community Forums in the Help menu is replaced with a link to Sony Insider Forums. 3. Installation package extraction path is no longer saved to registry. 4. Windows Installer 2.0 distribution package is not included. The complete list of changes from the official VAIO version (including changes introduced in the first release): 1. System prerequisites from Microsoft (Windows Installer 2.0, DirectX 9.0c, Windows Media Format 9, Windows Media Format 9.5, Data Access Components 2.5) are not included. 2. OpenMG Secure Module version 5.0 with the respective Registry Information is used instead of the original patched version 4.7. 3. Sony CONNECT Store support is no longer installed. 4. SonicStage Security Update is installed automatically. 5. Latest Personal Audio Drivers for SONY devices are installed automatically. 6. The VAIO support link in the Help menu is replaced with a link to Sony Insider Forums. NOTE: If you have applied the experimental SonicStage patch 4.3.02 for Vista/Windows 7, you'll need to re-apply it after installation. Download links: SonicStage 4.3 "Ultimate" Release 2 for Windows 2000/XP/Vista (you must register at Sony Insider forums to download) Mini-mode skins Recommended PxEngine update
  2. 4 points
    As promised in one of my previous posts, here is the trailer for 'The Field Recordist' which features some of the mini disc recorders, together with recorded tracks: UPDATED - HERE IS THE COMPLETE FILM: Best heard with headphones.
  3. 2 points
    It is currently admitted that the MZ-RH1 has the best DAC, ergo the best sound. I would prefer from far sound form a QS and ES Sony decks.
  4. 2 points
    Hi all! So I've started a little project for myself. Minidisc never really caught on too well in canada so I won't be stmbling on any racks at the thrift shop anytime soon. I've been looking for storage solutions, haven't been a big fan of the wine box idea, generally I haven't seen anything that really caught my eye. For some reason it never dawned on me in the last year to 3D print some racks... I'm not sure why, I've been 3D printing everything else for years.... So I designed these up yesterday with some spare time. They're very rough still and very utilitarian. The larger one holds 10 discs and is meant to stack vertically (and has holes for nesting feet, and holes for screws). The smaller one to the right I haven't tested yet but I am thinking of a wall unit that makes the discs look like they are floating out of the wall. Edit wise I'm going to shrink the width by 2mm and perhaps put the discs at a slight downard angle rather than 90 degree so that if they were on an uneven surface, they'd still stay in the rack. What do you guys think? Feel free to toss any ideas my way! (also, for curiosity sake, the larger one took 8 hours to print! 3d printing is pretty cool but it's still a very slow process.) (The render) and printed
  5. 2 points
    Finally, my homebrew laser power meter is put together. It cost $3 worth of surface mount components, a used disc sacrificed for the shell, a piece of pcb, and some other stuff I found in the back of my drawer. Initially I tested it with my digital multimeter hooked on those test terminals, but then I found this neat little five-digit Volt-meter I bought some time ago on ebay, I think it was five bucks or so with free shipping from China. Without much fine tuning, I popped this little probe into all the decks I had at hand, and measured the laser power. From the mV readings and the nominal laser power values I calculated the mV-to-mW multipliers, and I took the average of a unit I trusted the most, a 940. Using this sole multiplier as the "calibration", I recalculated the measured mW figures and compared to the factory recommended range. Most of the other units were nicely within specification, but this 530 in question, that immediately popped out, being near 40% below the necessary values, i.e., 0,55 mW and 4,32 mW versus 0,9 mW and 7,0 mW respectively. Now, it might be that easy, but before changing anything, I want to check the IOP, to see, whether that meets the specs, and set the measured value for further adjustments. For this I will need that rig connecting to the drive, currently waiting for the special connector to arrive. So much for now, I will update the thread as I progress. Some photos attached below, just for fun.
  6. 2 points
  7. 2 points
    In case anyone is interested... I´ve written a review of the Sony MZ-R 50. http://marlene-d.blogspot.de/2013/07/the-legendary-sony-mz-r-50-review.html
  8. 2 points
    I just wanted to say that it is nice to have some new members who are clearly MD lovers around to join in on the discussion and add new thoughts, ideas and opinions. Welcome all. :-)
  9. 2 points
    Buy LIP-4 battery. First open all the cover of LIP-4. then you can small PCB. just remove the PCB using soldering iron or else. Do the same things with LIP-3 batteries. take the small PCB from LIP-3 and put to LIP-4 battery cell use soldering iron. Then cover you new battery, make sure it won't have electronics shortcuts. You'll have a new long lasting battery. It works on my MZ-N10.
  10. 2 points
  11. 2 points
    I have a Sony MDS-JE780 for sale. It is silver and in mint condition as it has been hardly used. It is based in Wolverhampton so can be collected, or can be posted at additional cost. (I estimate about £7 with recorded delivery) £80 ono. Spec taken from the Sony website: Hybrid Pulse D/A Converter ATRAC DSP Type-S Long Time Recording and Playback (LP2, LP4) Pitch Control Scale Factor Edit NetMD Control A1 Keyboard Terminal 1 x Optical & 1 x Coaxial Input & 1 x Optical Output Available inblack and silverSee the link for more info.... http://www.sony.co.u...=TechnicalSpecs
  12. 2 points
    MiniDisc is not useless; it's obsolete. There is a key difference. Nothing as multifaceted as a MiniDisc recorder can be said to be useless. That said, I think that even if Sony had marketed MiniDisc successfully, it would be obsolescent today because its competitors are more feature-rich. I have difficulty following some of the logic in this thread. MiniDisc and MP3 players both have shuffle functions. It's up to the user whether or not to use them, and absolutely nothing about an MP3 player compels one to do so. It SHOULD go without saying that either is just as capable of playing entire albums chronologically. You're arguing against your perceptions of MP3 users' supposed preferences, which are likely exaggerated and unfounded. The issue was the native functionality of the devices and which better suited the questioner. I still have my MiniDisc players, though I almost exclusively use my MP3 player (and never on shuffle). I may be returning to reporting soon and thus would use my MiniDisc to record, even though my MP3 player has a voice recorder. I also take out MiniDisc sometimes just for nostalgia. Whereas many of you are exalting album listening, I actually got into MiniDisc because it facilitated playlists, but now MP3 players do this better because the track need not be re-uploaded to form the playlist. Album listening has its advantages and purposes, but playlists demonstrate the user's creativity and make for great time travel. In my moments of nostalgia, I can call up playlists of the songs that defined eras I miss. It's a beautiful thing. One of you said you found MP3 players useless because they could not do all the things a MiniDisc player could. That depends on the MP3 player. (Further, it's a bogus statement because any mass storage device that plays music clearly has a twofold desirable purpose.) I actually can edit titles and move files on the go, but let's be honest: It is rare that such an act is of such pressing import that it can't wait until one gets home. My MP3 player is an Archos 5, which, like many MP3 players, has great sound quality, radio, a 250-gigabyte hard drive, a voice recorder, Wi-FI, Web radio and TV, DVR, picture display, and video. Useless because it's an MP3 player? Oh, brother. Much of this stems from your zeal to vindicate the MiniDisc, which I love. Another example is the citation of an intangible such as "cool factor," which lies in the eye of the beholder. Consider that being in the in-crowd like an Apple user can be said to be cool. Also, cool as in different just means anything opposed to the leading product, and that doesn't necessarily mean a MiniDisc. A lesser-known MP3 player can turn heads, but turning heads is not where the joy in product use lies. It is also flawed logic to assert that one likes MiniDisc because one prefers to carry around just a few albums. One can choose to listen to just a few on an MP3 player, first of all. The mere presence of all the other tracks you have neatly stored on the hard drive will not weigh heavily on the mind. Second, both MP3 players and MiniDiscs are mass storage devices. That's like one compulsive overeater defaming another because the other is even worse. That does not make you the icon of restraint; rather, you prefer a lesser example of excess. I do believe there still are real advantages to MiniDisc that relate to its native functionality. It's durable, sounds great, and records. It edges out MP3 in battery life, line-in recording, and usually voice recording. Actually, recording is where its greatest strength is now. Another strength is that different models are tailored to different uses; some have radio, some record and others have a digital amplifier, for instance. I love that my MP3 player works with Windows Media Player, which keeps track of the tracks you have and have not added to the device. Syncing automatically adds the new tracks. If I went back to MinDisc, I'd have to guess where I left off as I tried to upload all the music I have purchased since then to MiniDiscs. Also, I don't have to be bothered with SonicStage or ATRAC anymore, and I am glad. I don't have a second-generation Hi-MD player, so I can't put MP3s on them.
  13. 2 points
    I have an N510 and a DN430. Both sound really good. I also have some S1's which, I know, are type R. They both sound excellent to me. I figured I'd take the (possible) slight noise quality hit and lack of remote for bombproof (especially in Orygun) performance of the S1. I can say those DN430's sound just fine. I think you can find that model with a radio too
  14. 1 point
    Back in 1997, long before MP3 was anything more than a concept, I was serving in the Air Force and frequently deployed overseas. Some guys on the squadron introduced me to a strange format for making music portable. MiniDisc. I soon got to learn that those tough little discs survived the rough-and-tumble of life in a kit-bag. We each bought portable players, and would ‘pool’ our discs together to make little music libraries, would trade discs with one another, and would copy CD’s for one another back home. No matter where we were in the world, AA batteries were easy to obtain, and just a handful of batteries would literally last weeks. It was a pocket-sized bit of luxury that we could carry with us, and I loved it. ......then, along came MP3 players and the ubiquitous ‘iPod’. Suddenly we could carry all of our music in a small space, and it seemed that the MiniDisc was dead. Within about 3 years everyone I knew had ditched the format and were literally giving away their discs and players, as were oil-rig workers, fishermen, and other locals who worked away from home for extended periods. I too, confined my MiniDisc collection to a box in the loft, and bought an iPod Classic. Fast-forward to 2005, and I deployed for a 4-month tour to Iraq. My iPod came with me, and I had the small luxury of my music collection to fall back on, OR SO I THOUGHT. By the second week I had the sickening ‘Sync Reset’ display (which of course was impossible without my PC) and in one fell swoop I lost my music. Other guys had problems with the portable power-generators cooking their wall-plug chargers, and soon quite a few of us had lost the use of our players, just when we would have appreciated them the most! Back home, and I was quickly falling out of love with my iPod. It seemed that whenever I updated my collection there would be issues with mixed/missing title-tracks and artwork. Any albums entitled ‘Greatest Hits’ would become an amalgamated mess, and whilst the battery-life seemed to get ever shorter, the demands for a ‘sync reset’ increased. The love was fading. I noticed something else, too. My listening habits were changing. My seemingly endless access to music made me a lazy listener, and I would frequently jump from album to album, track to track, and would often skip mid-way through a track. My days of listening to an album the way that the artist intended, had gone. This wasn’t music enjoyment. ....and so, by 2008 I was back to my MiniDisc, and what I revival it was! Equipment that had previously been prohibitively expensive was now dirt-cheap, and I was living the hobby like a millionaire! I soon had units for every occasion with Sony JA20ES and JA50ES decks for hifi use, numerous portable players, and a Pioneer MEH P9000 head-unit for the car. I could afford to be extravagant with discs, and my well used dozen or so swelled up to over 1,000. That was 10 years ago, and nothing much since then has changed. I still indulge in the childhood enjoyment of putting a ‘mixtape’ together in real-time, copying music from my CD’s and vinyl to Type-R SP to listen to in the car, or out walking the dog. Because space is at a premium my playlists are more carefully considered, and I listen to each track in full. My listening-habits are back to where they should be. In 20 years I can count on one hand the number of corrupted discs I’ve suffered, only ever having to re-copy one album. I keep discs and a spare player at work, in the summerhouse and in the car, and I have a physical, tangible connection with my music collection again. MiniDisc as a commercial format is dead, and I’m OK with that. It continues to live on in my household, and probably will do for years to come, maybe even for another decade or more. I continue to love the ‘forgotten format’, and those robust little discs give me everything I need.
  15. 1 point
    Hello fellow Minidisc lovers, I have a MZ-NH3D for sale. I currently have two of these and I can't use them both at the same time so I figured I'd let one go to be apart of someone elses collection. The unit comes with a Short USB cable, Cradle, Remote and AC Adapter. Everything works great and it has minor wear on it due to it being 13yrs old. It's a phenomenal player and it is considered a "Downloaoder" So you can put songs onto it, but you can't upload to a PC. It's a rare item and it was only released in Japan only. I'd be willing to take some offers on the device so feel free to PM me with questions or answers! Here is an enclosed video of all the devices I currently have. Just a disclaimer: I cannot part ways with the EH1 as it has sentimental attachment to a late friend I went to Japan with. Tried selling it earlier and just couldn't do it. So don't inquire about it. The RH1 is off limits too. MZ-N707 (Both of these devices are recently new. I have original packaging and the included car kit to go with them) MZ-NH1: This came from Holland, Netherlands! It is a EU spec so if you want this model you will need a power converter MZ-N10 Recently new as well. Original box and battery works great! (My favorite NetMD) MZ-M10: Mac Compatable recently new as well with original box. (Not shown in video as it didn't make it to my mailbox in time)
  16. 1 point
    For sure, Enzo Heavenly LOVE the Hi-MD format... so you have some king of Alibaba"s cavern for him, Fox Gabanna
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    Damned good ! Thank you Hmmm Music Lover.
  19. 1 point
    Nice collection (I love also the black MZ-EH1), focused on some best units of the Net-MD format and on the first generation Hi-MD (which seem to me stronger built than the 2d gen) I hope you will find a new home for all the units.
  20. 1 point
    Hello, has somebody tried to hack SONY NAC-HD1 250GB Gigajuke? The one thing I changed, I expanded storage from 250GB to 1TB of storage. Show next post below. Expanding size of your Sony NAC-HD1 is pretty easy. I'll be glad to help you considering NAC-HD1 and moving data partitions to larger hard disk, such as 3TB western digital sataIII drive, cause I have my own NAC-HD1E @ home I migrate all of my music to larger disk. In Europe, sony provide NAC-HD1E model, without "ANY MUSIC" function, other functions are exact to Sony's NAC-HD1 Japanese model. I wrote down things you need to expand NAC-HD1E/NAC-HD1 on larger disk: 1) Destination drive (1TB, 2TB, 3TB ... etc) I used WESTERN DIGITAL, 1TB, SATA, 7200RPM, 32MB cache, RE WD1002FBYS 2) SATA TO IDE CONVERTER BOARD (sony use old parallel ata controller and nowadays P-ATA is going to disappear completely, further disks are provided only on sata interface. Show this link: http://www.cooldrive...toidecofor.html N.B.!!! Remeber, that SATA does not need MASTER and SLAVE modes, theese modes can be selected on CONVERTER BOARD. As we know, system uses hard disk to boot, you need to set it as MASTER disk on CONVERTER, and CD-ROM - SLAVE 3) personal computer (PC) with P-ATA and S-ATA (sata) connectors and linux distribution Live CD, personally I used Fedora core 12 Live CD 4) Acronis Disk Director bootable CD 5) elementary knowledge of basic Linux/UNIX shell commands Instructions (STEP BY STEP): 1) open GigaJuke Deck, disassemble hard disk and it's connectors from unit 2) connect both NAC-HD1 orginal P-ATA hard disk and the new one SATA hard disk drive on which you want to clone GigaJuke to PC 3) boot your computer with linux live and enter system console via terminal and with super-user rights Type su at the command promt: linux# su Then we need device names with apropriate dev's linux# ls /dev then output shows /dev/hda1 /dev/sdb1 etc on system properties under hard disk managment you can detect hard disk's system name. For example, let's say the first drive (original drive from JukeBox) is called /dev/hda (ATA drive) and the destination /dev/sdb (new disk where all information is going to be copied sector by sector) Linux/UNIX cames with utility called data dump, you can execute it by entering command dd with parameters. dd utility can copy hard disk contents sector by sector. to copy original disk contents (boot record, partitions - swap, ext3 fs) you must type the command dd if=/dev/hda of=/dev/sdb bs=65536 where: dd - data dump utility, if=/dev/hda - source or input drive (listed as hda under dev) , of=/dev/sdb destination or output drive (listed as sdb under dev) , bs = 65536 (64k) - block size (in bytes) typicaly used for harddrive standard block sizes. N.B.!!! do not increase bs size under 64k, it will lead to errors during sector syncronize, smaller values susch as bs=32768 (32k) also can be used, but it takes longer to copy a disk. after copying the disk clone was completed. Only left one problem, after copying, there are only 250GB of allocated space on disk. N.B.!!! Do not use Acronis True Image, it will corrupt swap partition size and need to do disk clone again. Need to resize partition, it's done by Acronis Disk Doctor. You need to boot Acronis Disk Doctor CD and resize partition. after resize boot again linux live cd and shell promt type command fsck fsck sdb and wait till check is complete. Shut down computer and disconnect new hard disk and prepare to put it on GigaJuke Deck. Putting new disk on GigaJuke Assemble hard disk holder unit. Place The converter board on sata connector on hard disk, then wire connectors to converter board and connect PATA cable. GigaJuke is ready The you can fully assemble sony's deck unit. Turn the unit on and wait until it boots. I'll recommend that U have a backup copy of you music and reformat the new free space with format function on NAC-HD1, then restore again, because NAC-HD1 creates indexes for storage, and sometimes unit will be not happy to detect that unit has more storage than it was on previous format. Believe, this may help
  21. 1 point
    It is, indeed. And the reason I reply to a fairly old thread, is a similar experience, but with a little addition - a little hint (but a long story, apologies). It might work in some cases. Li-ion batteries are delicate on one hand, but on the other hand, due to the built in electronics, they can survive better, than the NiMH batteries for example. (I understand in some places of the world it is advised to use disclaimers - without repeating his words here, please refer to the OP's disclaimer at the top of this thread.) Few days ago I bought a small bunch of junk minidisc walkmans (for peanuts really), just out of curiosity, to see how they look like inside. I can tear them down without any fear, and I maybe able to learn new things. One of these was a Sony MD-R30, little beaten, but it turned out being fully operational, and just run nicely plugged on my MZ-R3's power adapter (even it was only 5V, while the R30 would have needed 6V, according to the sign next to the inlet). Then I noticed, that there is a battery in the unit. It looked completely dead, no voltage on the terminals, and it did not take any charge either. I decided to check it inside - I did not have any replacement battery, but I had an experience, that suggested I should try it again. Few years ago, I once accidentally left a battery of my tiny Sony camera (DSC-T7) in the watch pocket (coin pocket) of my jeans. My wife did not notice it, and put them into the washing machine. It took me some time to realize where I left the battery, but by then the washing program was almost complete. Needless to say, the battery was completely drawn, worse than that, even the external charger indicated it was faulty. I had nothing to loose, opened the miniature case, and disconnected the internal controller board from the battery. It showed only a few hundred mV, but it was a sign, that it is not yet completely dead. Then I connected the battery to a CC PSU (constant current power supply). At about 5 Volts, I began charging the battery with ~100mA current (* more about the value below), and monitored the voltage. It soon jumped up to ~3V, then I gave a couple of 5-10s impulses of 200...300mA, with equal length of "breaks" with 100mA in between. After this treatment I reassembled the battery, glued the case, and I have been using that battery since then, just like a normal one. Based on this story, I gave a chance to this LIP-12 pack too. I assumed the unit has not been in use for many years, and it depleted the battery. An alkali or a NiMH battery would have certainly died, but the Li-ion is protected from completely discharged, by the internal controller board. When I desoldered the 18650 cell from the controller board, it showed (what a coincidence) a similar 8...900mV. Then I performed the procedure above. I chose 200mA charging current, and 500mA for the impulses. The 200mA is about the 1/6th of the nominal capacity of the pack in mAh - the rule of thumb is 1/10, but while that is appropriate for regular charging a healthy battery, here I wanted to get some quick results. After a few minutes the voltage went up to 3V, then I repeated the impulses, finally, left the battery on ~150 mA for about ten minutes. At this time, it showed ~3,7V - that is good, as the nominal voltage of the pack is 3,6V. I resoldered the cell on the board, reassembled the pack, a few little drops of superglue on the edges of the case, and it looks as before. When I slipped the pack back into the compartment, the unit immediately showed ~50% remaining charge (that instant value was a bit "fake", but definitely a good sign), and after plugging the wall adapter in, it began charging. Playback did not stop when I unplugged the power adapter, so the battery was back in life. I will experience a bit around the real capacity of the "revitalized" cell, but so far so good. . . . .
  22. 1 point
    This LIP-4WM shortage make me think of selling my two MZ-RH1 (grey and black) one of these days.
  23. 1 point
    My future choices will be to get more decks. SP only with type R or MDLP type S decks. Mobile units : - to save your money, SP +/- MDLP units (Hi-MD are more expensive) - I prefer a SP than a MDLP recording (comptability, better quality) - old and solid units for listening with AA side battery if you can - one or two more recent units with type R for recording SP, or MDLP type S if you record and and listen to MDLP. - a large stock of MD blanks (more than 100) + storage
  24. 1 point
    Unfortunately most charity shops these days (or certainly the major ones) have somebody knowledgeable picking through stuff like vinyl records, CD's etc. Anything that appears to be worth a bit then gets listed on Ebay. You might find something in a small, local, independent charity shop or occasionally stuff turns up at car boots. There's a lot of luck involved. I believe there was a thread some time ago discussing pre-recorded MD's and which Atrac version was used. I've got a pre-recorded copy of Meat Loaf's Bat Out Of Hell album and I must admit the sound quality is nowhere near that of the CD. I haven't actually tried this but I reckon if I copied the CD onto a blank MD using my deck (in SP mode) the copy would sound better than the pre-recorded one.
  25. 1 point
    "The market" determines their worth? Well, "the market" usually has no idea about quality - because in this case it consists of a few dumb people believing in a myth. The TDK significantly colours the sound and is far away from the original sound. But I´ll give you advice regarding your "market": you should extend shipping to Europe. Here in Germany for example, Sharp's last MD recorders with 1-bit technology are highly sought items, fetching rather extreme prices (and they too are not worth their money). The same goes for any HiMD device and the accompanying HiMDs. Happy? If so, stop using this forum to extract information on how to exploit others!
  26. 1 point
    The units themselves are at fault here, just like the gumstick itself. I have the same problem: both my R55, the R91 and both R900 won´t work with a fully charged battery. Have a look at the contact in those devices not able to run on a gumstick; it´s just a tiny tip of metal which wears down over time. It behaves like a spring and looses its elasticity over time, preventing firm contact. To avoid this I bought self adhesive copper foil, something like this: http://www.ebay.de/itm/2m-selbstklebende-kupferfolie-80mm-breit-/181351987183?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item2a396bb7ef I subsequently fashioned a tiny piece of thick copper out of this foil which fits into the battery door of those units. The copper will re-establish connectivity. The second problem is the battery itself: any NiMh battery does have some sort of Memory Effect (not like on NiCd batteries), to avoid it you´d need a charger that has a 'Refresh' function. I´ve bought this one three years ago: http://www.amazon.de/Technoline-BC-700-Akku-Ladeger%C3%A4t-schwarz/dp/B000WILI42/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1394886466&sr=8-8&keywords=eneloop+ladeger%C3%A4t It´s wonderful: not only does it charge other NiMh batteries to their optimal power, with two wires, a dummy piece of rubber and a claw it´ll refresh the prismatic gumstick batteries as well.
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    1. How old were you when you first 'bought into' the format? 44. 2. Do you still regularly use your very first player? No, broke. 3. Do you regularly 'use' your items, or are some purely of interest as a 'collector'? Bit of both, couple of models have become favourites so they are used all the time. Those with peculiar obsolete batteries (e.g. Aiwa AM-F70) just sit on a shelf. 4. Do you listen to 'new' music on your discs, or prefer to keep the format for music 'of the era'? Any music. 5. Do you own more items than you can 'practically use'? Yes. 6. Did you 'go away' from MiniDisc', only to return to it at a later date? No, stuck with it ever since my first one. 7. Do you associate use of your player with 'fond memories', or is it a purely 'practical' consideration? Practical, if I use my MP3 player for a few days then go back to MD the improvement in sound quality is like a breath of fresh air. I've often wondered where the majority of regular MD users are located and it wouldn't surprise me if it's here in the UK. As a nation we traditionally tend to be more resistant to change than other countries so therefore hang on to old technology for longer. Good luck with your research.
  29. 1 point
    If you want to set your Creative card to the only format the MD stores in, set it to 24 bit and 44.1 kHz. It cannot ever work with 96 kHz. Not ever. 48 kHz are bad too, because your MD recorder has to resample it to 44.1 kHz. Save that work for your PC, that one is much better at it. Recording in 44.1 kHz will only work if you disable any DSP inside your card. Otherwise, everything will be resampled from 44.1 to 48 and back to 44.1. This process (as performed by the Creative) will add distortions so it´s important to switch all DSPs off. Why 24 bit? Because your MD recorder is capable of using this bit-depth to gain a sonic advantage. Disadvantage? None. The suggestion from PhilippeC to use ReplayGain is very reasonable, that way you can encode all your music with correct RMS levels (I´d recommend 'Album' mode).
  30. 1 point
    This was just something I noticed during various messings about and I thought it was worth sharing. I have no idea if it has been mentioned before. It concerns the transfer rates of NetMD. I don't know if minidisc.org is the most up to date with its information but it states: "SP mode audio at 1.6x is 2.25Mbps (i.e. 1411.2kbps*1.6)" However, I think this is incorrect. It does also go on to say "perhaps driver or interface problems that restrict NetMD USB transfers to roughly 2.5Mbps really are limiting the speed of SP mode transfers" and says that USB 2.0 could help but so would fixing whatever the USB 1.1 problem is. I couldn't tell you if this has been fixed, but just from what I've noticed, I don't think the 1.6x is right. When you cue a song to play at 1.6x and start it at the same time as an SP NetMD transfer begins, the transfer is over well before the song is. I also noticed that SonicStage transfers finish at 95%. Once there, it will do one of two things: If you are transferring using battery power, it will stop and write TOC information before continuing with the next song. You can hear this happening on the device itself, since the whole laser/recording aperture is quite audible when going back and forth. If you are transferring with the power supply, it will simply finish at 95% and then continue with the next song. The TOC information is written after everything else is finished. Again the noise from the device confirms this, the laser isn't going back and forth between songs, it is just a continuous process until the end. So with that in mind, I figured I would speed up the music a tad to. 2.0x. I started the music at the same time as the transfer started and it was certainly a lot closer, but the music finished a tiny bit ahead of the transfer, so I slowed the music down to 1.9x. Both finished at exactly the same time, and this was tested a few times with a few different songs of varying length. Which leads me to a few possibilities. The problem that was mentioned by minidisc.org (being restricted to a certain bandwidth) has been fixed, or the use of USB 2.0 actually helps. But then I could still be wrong, since I use a 64-bit driver. I don't know how much it differs over the 32-bit one that comes with SonicStage. Anywho, just thought they were observations worth sharing.
  31. 1 point
    In the last two weeks I have bought very little stock, primarily two off Sony MZ-N707s in partial completeness. My intention is to list a complete one with the best of the bits tonight. I was jotting down serial numbers, and thought I had entered one incorrectly as the last digit was a '5' not a '6' as I had previously seen. To my utter surprise it then dawned on me that the two main units are immediate siblings - one serial number is 5166786, the one I bought earlier 5166785. How amazing is that? I guess they may have even been in the same batch, from the same shop (probably Argos?), and bought around the same time. Yet one came to me from South Wales, the other Byfleet in Surrey. I'm not sure I want to sell them now - after being separated since 'birth' they are finally together again! Anybody else seen an amazing coincidence like that? Jim
  32. 1 point
    Oh here is a picture of my Sony Qualia 017 charging in it's charging station... just took it out of the box and it still works perfectly. Again, I have all paperwork, original packaging, manual, earbuds, chain (yes it came with a chain), leather carrying case, attached remote, etc. If anyone is interested, I can post more photos of everything too. I was told by someone at the Sony store in LA , that mine was probably one of only a handful made for the U.S. market. I still have no idea why I bought the damn thing since I probably only used it a dozen times and never took it out of the house for fear of it being damaged. I'd be happy to give more information to anyone. Of course escrow.com would be fine and I'm in Los Angeles if anyone might want to see it in person! Thanks! Barry
  33. 1 point
    No Hi-MD discs. I just don't have any of those. $215 shipped.
  34. 1 point
    More consistent performance than those other office holders.
  35. 1 point
    Nice t-shirts: http://www.spreadshirt.co.uk/minidisc-downloads-t-shirts-C4408A18475400
  36. 1 point
    http://forums.sonyinsider.com/index.php?showtopic=24827 Here is the list that my friend Pierre want to sale first to MD fans like ours... Later will come the price and details, at first please tell me what is your first 10 better choice because there is a huge work : hundreds of photos, description, etc. Most of decks are complete (box, remote...) Loque : As it take time to sale 100 decks, don't be afraid, there will be still plenty to sale next year ! Ask any question you want : PM me, I will transfer to Pierre. Final negociation will be done with him. Brand Model Denon DMD 1300 Denon DMD 800 Denon DMD 1000 B Denon DMD 1000 S Denon DMD M7 Denon DMD M10 Denon DMD M30 Denon DMD F100 JVC XM 228 Kenwood DM-3090 Kenwood DM-5090 Kenwood DM-9090 Kenwood DM-S500 Marantz CM 635 Onkyo FR-435 Onkyo MD-A9 Onkyo MD-105 Onkyo MD-122 Onkyo MD-185 II S Onkyo MD-185 II B Onkyo MD-2321 B Onkyo MD-2321 S Onkyo MD-2511 B Onkyo MD-2521 B Onkyo MD-2521 S Pioneer MJ-D508 Pioneer MJ-D707 Sharp MD-R3 Sharp MD-R2 Sony MDS-101 B Sony MDS-302 Sony MDS-303 Sony MDS-501 Sony MDS-503 Sony MDS-J3000ES Sony MDS-JA3ES S Sony MDS-JA3ES B Sony MDS-JA20ES B Sony MDS-JA30ES S Sony MDS-JA30ES B Sony MDS-JB730 Sony MDS-JB920 Sony MDS-JB930 Sony MDS-JB940 Sony MDS-JB980 Sony MDS-JE320 Sony MDS-JE330B Sony MDS-JE440 Sony MDS-JE470B Sony MDS-JE470S Sony MDS-JE480S Sony MDS-JE480B Sony MDS-JE500 Sony MDS-JE510B Sony MDS-JE510S Sony MDS-JE520 B Sony MDS-JE530 S Sony MDS-JE640 S Sony MDS-JE700 Sony MDS-JE780 Sony MDS-M100 Sony MDS-NT1 Sony MDS-MX1 Sony MDS-PC1 Sony MDS-PC2 Sony MDS-PC3 Sony MDS-S1 Sony MDS-S30 Sony MDS-S35 Sony MDS-S37 Sony MDS-S38 B Sony MDS-S39 S Sony MDS-S40 S Sony MDS-S41 S Sony MDS-S50 Sony MDS-S707 S Sony MDS-SD1 Sony MDS-SP55 Sony MDS-W1 Teac MD-H100 Teac MD-H500 Teac MD-H500i Teac MD- 8 Teac MD- 5 Technics SJ-MD100 Technics SJ-MD150 Technics SJ-HD501 Technics SJ-HDA710 Universum MD 4096 Yamaha MDX-595 S Yamaha MDX-595 B Yamaha MDX-596 B Yamaha MDX-793 B Yamaha MDX-E100 Yamaha MDX-E300 Yamaha MDX-M5
  37. 1 point
    Trades can be any type, as I understand it. I was interested in a "home made" trade. Let me know though the name of the pre recorded title you are interested in.
  38. 1 point
    For me there were tons of reasons why to use the minidisc format as an audio recorder and player through out the 90's. In fact I've been a big fan of the format and used it faithfully up until about 5 or 6 years ago when HDD and flash based memory recorders and players began to be cheaper than owning the minidisc format all together. That with their smaller size, higher audio quality, lack of DRM (no sonic stage) finally pushed me away from the minidisc format. Personally I don't see any reason why I would want to use the Minidisc format if i had a choice today to buy an audio playerrecorder besides the novelity of it... Except for one.. I miss being able to completely manage my audio collection with out the use of a computer. It's not that I hate computers, I am a systems administrator and have been doing this for near 20 years, but I miss being able to go to my CD or Tape collection (back in the day) pulling out what I wanted to hear and listening to it on my home stereo, my car stereo, my audio player at work, at my friends house, and my portable player, with out ever needing to worry about DRM, file transfers, file formats, and or needing to download from the cloud. With the massive success of the MP3 File format, the iPod, and everything else that makes the digital world move, nothing was as easy as pulling a tape or cd from your collection and listening it to on anything you wanted to and sharing it with anyone you wanted to - and the same can be said about video tapes in the VCR days with regards to DVRs. I can't imagine I'm totally alone with this. The blank VCR tape market was huge through out the 80's and 90's and the same was true for blank audio cassettes. It would almost make sense to me that sony would take their exisiting technology of HI-MDs and tweek it a bit so it could become the modern day equivalent of the VCR. Minidiscs wouldn't suffer from degradation from over-writing, storage, or scratches as CDs and DVDs do. By also doing this I believe this could re-introduce MDs for what they were ment to be in the 90's - to re-place audio cassetts (if they could be simply priced cheaply).Of course the damage is already done. Even if Sony did do something like this audio MD's will never become the next "walkman" or "iPod", but I can see these as a cheap replacement for the common audio cassette in a new digital age that will allow you to store you'r audio outside of a computer - again if priced very cheaply. Just wondering what anyone's thoughts on this might be. Below is post I posted on a Sony's forum a while ago, which I will repost here. "Anyone else miss VCRs (not their quality) but being able to easily record a show, save it to tape, than taking the tape and watching it at a friends house or family members house? That's something you can't easily do with current DVRs, or anything else since the VCR. Why doesn't Sony make a modern VCR and use Hi-MD technology to let consumers easily record tv shows? There was a massive vcr market of people recording shows and saving them - just because everything has gone to flash-based memory and hard drives, doesn't mean people still wouldn't want the simplicity of a VCR to record and store their videos and use the Minidisc media to re-write over with out degradation to the media. The Secrete for it's success? No Crazy proprietary format, nor God awful drm schemes, and keeping it reasonably priced."
  39. 1 point
    I agree with Soundbox, I love MD, I love the form factor and I love the sound. I have only ever strayed with a couple of Sony HD based units which used ATRAC any way, same awesome sound. In the past few years I have used mainly SP recorded via optical in real-time. I have an iPhone (my third in four to five years) and I would not waste my time copying music to is because it sounds like crap compared to any SP recorded (or Hi-SP for that matter) content. I do long for the days of the ease of a VCR ... I have a DVR and the OP is right, the ability to be mobile with the recording is not the same. A few years ago, I bought a DVD recorder made by Sony, it records in the same way as a VCR does but uses DVD-R media, it works OK, but it is limited to standard definition (480i in US) and does not really look very good, well, it looks almost as good as a decent SVHS VCR, but it would be nice to have a usable format for easily recording broadcast HD content. I have been experimenting with PC based DVR software and NAS storage on high speed network in the home ... Not optimal yet, but it will come around. Oh yeah, and unless I setup streaming to external networks, I can't really take it to my friends house to watch.
  40. 1 point
    - one MZ-R35 and 14 MD blanks for 20 euros from France
  41. 1 point
    I have a wall of discontinued formats. MD will go up there soon, next to DAT.
  42. 1 point
    I thought I'd share this story I posted on the forum of What Hifi today. Maybe it's of use to other users. Over the years I have been thinking about what to with my collection of Minidiscs. It's a mix of digital copies of albums, broadcast recordings and even some of my mum's vinyl. I don't carry my portable Minidisc recorder around anymore and I would really like to have in my iTunes library so I can play them over the Airport Express or on my iPod Nano 5G. The other consideration is archiving to hard drive. Will I still have a working MD player in 20 years time? My recordings are in the old Minidisc SP format (recorded in ATRAC 4.5) and there is no way to export them to my Mac using the only recorder on the market today, the Sony MZ-RH1. Mouthwatering kit but old recordings can only be converted to WAV using a PC running Windows XP. I have considered getting a MZ-RH1 and installing Windows XP on a Bootcamp partition. But I don't want Windows on my Mac if I can avoid it. According to Sony multiboot systems are not supported. Also the Sony Sonicstage software doesn't seem to run on Windows 7, except when you install something called XP compatability mode. It all sounds very cumbersome indeed. I have tried the analogue route with a Griffin iMic but I wasn't happy with the results. It is also cumbersome to set the recording level with analogue input. Then I remembered that my MacBook has digital in and that it would be possible to record the digital stream. Only problem: my Sony CD/MD deck (MDX-D3) doesn't have a digital output. Never thought about digital outs when I bought that deck over 10 years ago. Fortunately there is quite a market in NL for second hand decks. After reading different sources (like www.minidisc.org) I decided to look for a second hand deck with digital out. I found one in Amsterdam and I picked it up today. It's quite a nice deck, the Sony MDS-JE 520 and it cost me EUR 50. I took my MacBook round to check that the digital out was working properly and I could record. It did. I just had a test with it through the DACMagic and it sounds awesome. Software considerations on the Mac. There's now quite a few good recording programs on the Mac. To name a few: - Audacity - Audio Hijack Pro - Garageband (not recommended, it's a bit of memory hog) - Quicktime 7 Pro I have tried them all and for the moment I'm using Audio Hijack Pro. The workflow is as follows: - Start hijacking from the digital input. - Set where the recordings should be saved. - You may set tags for the recordings at this point. - Set Audio Hijack Pro Silence Monitor to start a new file. I use 0.5 seconds. - Hit the play button on the MD deck and start recording in Audio Hijack Pro - Editing is only needed with gapless tracks. I do this in QuickTime 7 Pro. - Open a new player in and paste the selection. Then export this new file and give the title of the track. Use sound to AIFF, 44kHz 16 bit. I create a new folder with the name of the album. You have to do this for every track on the album but you can save the files in the same folder. There is the alternative of exporting the complete AIFF file first before editing and then edit the copy. - Import the AIFF's into the iTunes library - Convert the AIFF's to Apple Lossless (or another format) and tag them the way you want. You can select all tracks first to give them the album title. Also very useful is to tick 'gapless playback' and the total of tracks on the album. Amazon is a great source if you don't have the individual titles written on the sleeve. You can also cut and past the artwork from Amazon into iTunes. - Then title the individual tracks. - If necessary (like running out of hard drive space) you can delete the the AIFF's. If there's anyone who was thought of a way to improve on the workflow: I am open to suggestions!
  43. 1 point
    it's pinned here in the downloads section. You can copy it to CD and then install from there, methinks. The fact sonic stage won't recognize a file but WMP will play it means it's safe to "delete" from SS (don't "delete the music file from the computer") and reimport the oma file. DO NOT System Restore or reformat etc until you are quite sure that you have decrypted the files. Only way to test that... copy some and try to play on another machine that has SS.
  44. 1 point
    It would be awesome if Sony removed the 'proprietaryness" of it; The fact that i can only use Sonicstage to burn the files is awful. An Atrac file CD burned via Sonic, it works. Burned via any other burning program, unreadable files. Burning an AUDIO CD takes forever on Sonicstage; i'm not talking about my burner, I'm talking about Sonicstage itself taking forever to redbook the files, or whatever it's doing. It's way easier for me to wav my Atracs, then burn them on a much faster burner... Atrac would be awesome, if it wasn't proprietary
  45. 1 point
    My Sony decks are maintained by S.T.A.V. Service Technique Audio Video a French company, near Strasbourg. Perfect service. They have a nice Sony museum display in the entrance hall.
  46. 1 point
    i sent a copy of you post to one of my former piano students who is pretty much "into" the Beatles - he sent this back to me to paste here for you to read - ((Hi Ray, I don't read that board, but please copy/paste this response: ----- This is not correct. There are a few things: 1. The stereo set was *not* compressed in its entirety. There are some tracks to which no compression was applied, and others where compression was only applied to one channel (typically, the one with the most transients). In general, the amount of compression/limiting typically resulted in a volume boost in the range of 1db-3db. Less than 1.5db of compression gain in not audible. There are a couple of issues with the stereo set, but the compression isn't a big one. 2. There was no compression applied to the Mono set. None. You can try to determine this through comparisons with other masterings or vinyl pressings, but you will get incorrect results. Those masterings will may appear to have higher transients in some instances due to the amount of EQ that was applied at the frequencies dominant in the transients. EQ was not (as far as I know) applied to the Mono set. These were done flat. 3. As a final consideration, keep in mind that the original mixes (especially the mono mixes) were heavily compressed and limited. It many cases, the limiting was rather extreme. Revolver is a good example of this. If they applied 1db-3dbs of further compression, it would be virtually unnoticeable, as all of the peaks were already squashed. It is the same as bein upset that somebody drew on your blue wall with a blue crayon of the same shade. ))
  47. 1 point
    Why I can`t download drivers for my SHARP IM-DR410 from "downloads"?
  48. 1 point
    Aren't we all insane for still using MD?
  49. 1 point
    Reading your post is a treat! For one, in a way you've answered your own question. 1) You're appreciating how good it sounds 2) You have the desire to have "rekindled" enthusiasm... why? Because you recognize what a cool format MD really is... it was just poorly marketed and overlooked. 3) You recognize the durability and reliability of these devices. Now, if I may still add a few thoughts of my own. For one, I've heard that the Cowon players offer great sound quality, and anything that's non-iPod gets kudos from me But minidisc simply offers something no other units really offer these days. Let's first look at what mp3 players and the like offer: 1) huge capacity 2) relatively decent sound (they're slowly improving) 3) recording capability (becoming more common) 4) availability - extremely high... you can get one from the grocery store 5) bling - let's face it, video playback, phones, GPS, etc... all in your music player Ok... what does minidisc offer COOL FACTOR. Is that it?? Well until just a few years ago, we could say it has the best sound, it records, etc., but that gap is (oooo I forgot 'gapless', but that just got fixed not long ago too for mp3 players) smaller each passing day. And I'm not even mentioning battery life because nowadays, unless you are on an island, you can have a unit charging anywhere (car, portable battery pack, the office, etc.)... yes, MD has much better battery life, mostly because there is not large illuminated screen sucking juice, but still not really important in today's rechargable world, in my opinion. So what is this cool factor? Let's face it... a small, literally COMPACT disc that is in a PROTECTED plastic shell that can't get scratched, that is REWRITABLE, and INCREDIBLE sound quality and still looks futuristic, retro-punk cool is just downright awesome. This isn't for Generation Y much and certainly not Z, but if you grew up in a time when even burning your own CD-R was exciting, then you can understand part of the thought process behind why minidiscs are so amazing. But even that aside, you might also know how to appreciate ALBUM listening. I hate shuffle-play or being overwelmed by 10,000,000 songs to choose from. I love to grab a couple MDs and go, which with LP2 still gives me like 6 or more albums to choose from. Less is more as far as I'm concerned. Minidisc is DIFFERENT. It is rare now, and for the most part you can only get units now via Ebay... so the HUNT is part of the fun! Show it off to friends, see their reaction. You'll get the "why not iPod?" reaction, but you'll also first get the "wow, what's THAT?" reaction too. One more thought on sound quality. I bought an iPod a while back and tried ripping music to it in "lossless" wav format and it still sounded like complete crap to me. But that's because I like the SOUND SIGNATURE of ATRAC and the Sony units and their built in amps/eq's etc... so you have to see what your ears prefer. I also love making minidisc LABELS and ARTWORK, just like the days of making tape compilations, or CD-Rs with face label printing... check out the threads for MD label art both in this forum and the Audio T-Board. Anyway, plunge into these threads, look around and have fun... and take PICS of your unit! We love that. Welcome to the family. As we are small, and unique, its what draws us closer together
  50. 1 point
    Due to the nature of my work I cannot go into details. What I can say is when you overdraw the USB bus strange things can happen like uninitiated reboots or lockups. In extreme cases I have seen motherboard USB headers burned, motherboard traces burned. Small fires started by overdrawing current from the USB bus. Think about it. Most every item that has some sort of USB cradle has a seperate AC charger that plugs into the base of the charger. Why? Because in most cases the USB bus is not capable of providing the current necessary to charge modern day devices. There are items that can charge via USB like cell phones but the current draw is minimal. Most devices that don't have an AC charger connected to the base do not charge the device. Some devices that come immediately to mind are PDA's. The USB dock always has a seperate AC charger. There are MD units that cannot be charged via USB even though they have a USB dock. I have to take back my comment that it "can't" be done. Maybe I should reword it to say "Be very very careful!" As long as you fall within the USB specs for current draw you should be okay. National Semiconductor has an interesting article that is relevant to this discussion. It pertains to Li-Ion charging but maybe some knowledge can be gained from looking at the schematic they have for the charger they propose: http://www.national.com/appbriefs/files/AppBrief101.pdf