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Windows 10 installation (Net MD): 1) Download the files in description 2) Double click on "SS43_Ultimate.exe" and install the "SonicStage" program. 3) Go to Program Files (x86) -> Sony -> Personal Audio Drivers -> Sort by type -> Highlight all the ".inf" files, right click on one of them and hit install. 4) Unzip the second attached file "sony-net-md-drivers-win764.zip" and open up the folder "Sony Net MD Drivers". 5) Right click "NETMD760.inf" and hit install. 6) Go to Program Files (x86) -> Sony -> SonicStage-> Right click on "Omgjbox.exe -> Click on Compatibility -> Under the Compatibility tab, click the box and select "Windows XP (Service Pack 3)" Launch SonicStage, plug in your Walkman and a "NET MD" tab should show up in Sonic Stage. If the "NET MD" tab does not show up for you, then you need to find the correct driver for the individual Microdisc player You may receive an error when starting it, just click "next" and agree" and open it up a 2nd time without problems. Learning how to use SonicStage is very easy. SS43_ULTIMATE.exe sony-net-md-drivers-win764.zip9 points
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Since the "Ultimate" 4.3 version seems to have gained quite a popularity, and appears to be less glitchy than any previous one, I decided to build a second release. This is purely a cosmetic update. What's changed from the first release: 1. Updated Registry Information Setup is used now. This doesn't affect minidisc functionality in any way, but may add support for some newer ATRAC phones (you still need to provide the respective drivers). 2. The link to Minidisc Community Forums in the Help menu is replaced with a link to Sony Insider Forums. 3. Installation package extraction path is no longer saved to registry. 4. Windows Installer 2.0 distribution package is not included. The complete list of changes from the official VAIO version (including changes introduced in the first release): 1. System prerequisites from Microsoft (Windows Installer 2.0, DirectX 9.0c, Windows Media Format 9, Windows Media Format 9.5, Data Access Components 2.5) are not included. 2. OpenMG Secure Module version 5.0 with the respective Registry Information is used instead of the original patched version 4.7. 3. Sony CONNECT Store support is no longer installed. 4. SonicStage Security Update is installed automatically. 5. Latest Personal Audio Drivers for SONY devices are installed automatically. 6. The VAIO support link in the Help menu is replaced with a link to Sony Insider Forums. NOTE: If you have applied the experimental SonicStage patch 4.3.02 for Vista/Windows 7, you'll need to re-apply it after installation. Download links: SonicStage 4.3 "Ultimate" Release 2 for Windows 2000/XP/Vista (you must register at Sony Insider forums to download) Mini-mode skins Recommended PxEngine update6 points
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Hello everyone! I'm new to this forum, and let me say that I love to see the love and conversation about MiniDisc keep going on I'm popping in just to let you know that I've recently released an app for NetMD devices. I wrote the app mainly for myself, but I thought it might be useful for some of you too! So, and here's the link to use it -> https://stefano.brilli.me/webminidisc/ And here's a short demo of how app works Any feedback is welcome! Stefano5 points
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As promised in one of my previous posts, here is the trailer for 'The Field Recordist' which features some of the mini disc recorders, together with recorded tracks: UPDATED - HERE IS THE COMPLETE FILM: Best heard with headphones.4 points
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Hello! Just thought I'll report it here, if you're trying to create an account without a connection with an already existing account like Google or alike, it's simply impossible to do so, because of incorrectly loaded reCaptcha. To make this account I had to rewrite the part of the site responsible for the captcha. If anyone else is experiencing the same difficulties, here are the steps I used to create my account: Go to https://forums.sonyinsider.com/register/ In devtools, open the `head` tag and remove all the scripts that mention recaptcha Add a new script, with `src="https://www.google.com/recaptcha/api.js"` Execute the following JavaScript code: const captcha = document.querySelector("[data-ipscaptcha]"); const parent = captcha.parentElement; captcha.remove(); const newCaptcha = document.createElement("div"); parent.appendChild(newCaptcha); grecaptcha.ready(() => grecaptcha.render(newCaptcha, {sitekey: "6LdgERMTAAAAAC4kTmm7BH1laShX3teATAV_6FIY"})); After that, you should be able to click on the captcha and create your account by executing the following JS code (the submit button is broken): document.querySelector("form").submit();3 points
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Finally, my homebrew laser power meter is put together. It cost $3 worth of surface mount components, a used disc sacrificed for the shell, a piece of pcb, and some other stuff I found in the back of my drawer. Initially I tested it with my digital multimeter hooked on those test terminals, but then I found this neat little five-digit Volt-meter I bought some time ago on ebay, I think it was five bucks or so with free shipping from China. Without much fine tuning, I popped this little probe into all the decks I had at hand, and measured the laser power. From the mV readings and the nominal laser power values I calculated the mV-to-mW multipliers, and I took the average of a unit I trusted the most, a 940. Using this sole multiplier as the "calibration", I recalculated the measured mW figures and compared to the factory recommended range. Most of the other units were nicely within specification, but this 530 in question, that immediately popped out, being near 40% below the necessary values, i.e., 0,55 mW and 4,32 mW versus 0,9 mW and 7,0 mW respectively. Now, it might be that easy, but before changing anything, I want to check the IOP, to see, whether that meets the specs, and set the measured value for further adjustments. For this I will need that rig connecting to the drive, currently waiting for the special connector to arrive. So much for now, I will update the thread as I progress. Some photos attached below, just for fun.3 points
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I received a similar, albeit slightly smaller, mix of boxed and unboxed discs today too 🙂2 points
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Which sort of cases are you after? You used to be able to buy the basic hinged jewel cases from Amazon but I've not seen them on there for a few years now: If you're UK based Retro Style Media sell them: https://www.retrostylemedia.co.uk/product/clear-minidisc-case Price per case varies depending on how many you buy. Note that the quoted price is ex VAT so you'll need to factor that in as well. They also sell the larger cases that pre-recorded discs used to come in back in the 90s: They come in a variety of colours but are a lot more expensive. You can find them here: https://www.retrostylemedia.co.uk/shop/minidisc-cases That website also has templates to download for the inserts etc. There's a bit more info (and a video) here:2 points
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Don't worry about it - I got myself a Sony LAM for testing and ended up falling in love with the whole LAM series of devices. I have 3 now, so I use that functionality regularly 😆2 points
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Over the past couple of months, I've been bitten by the MD bug again. I hadn't visited this forum in a VERY long time. I've used one of my MZ-NH900s at my work desk on almost a daily basis for 10+ years. It sits it's original cradle, powered from the AC adapter because the battery long since gave up the ghost. I have about 20 disc's (a mix of Hi-MD and standard MD My other NH900 has been broken for years after it fell out of my pocket and a disc got jammed. Was able to get the disc out by disassembling the recorder but when I all went back together the buttons were no longer responsive... So I put it in a storage box with my other MD stuff that wasn't used anymore. FF 1month ago, I was digging thru some things and came across my box MD recorders. Pulled out the NH900 and took it apart again. Long story short, it's had been returned to service! While looking for info on repair, I came across this site and an intro to Reddit MD. My interest stoked again, burned some new disc's, reorganized some of my favorites, and am trying my hand at labeling. I've also managed to buy a couple of new Hi-MD blanks and some used standard MDs. It's always fun to go thru used disc's from someone else to see what's on them 🙂 My MD arsenal consists of: MZ-R500, MZ-N707 (eprom nodded), MZ-N920, IM-DR420, MZ-NH600D, 2-MZ-NH900s, 2-MZ-RH10s (both with bad displays), and a MZ-RH910. 150ish standard MDs and 15 Hi-MDs. Most of my standard disc's are Hi-MD formated and most of the music is burned in ATRAC3plus @256k. I simply LOVE this format!2 points
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Nice to see SIF back up. Why was it down? It was quite a long time. I think many people have given up on it. That http://www.minidisc.wiki has turned out pretty nice btw. Still has a ways to go, but it has data on some devices not found anywhere else in English.2 points
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I don't have a question, just wanted to post a brief homage to my Sony MZ-R90 which I got, unexpectedly, as a birthday present in 2000. It transformed portable audio for me, but unfortunately, six short months later, my MZ-R90 was stolen by an opportunistic thief. Not long after that, I moved on from MD to MP3 players, but just recently I've been reminiscing wistfully about that beautiful little piece of music technology. I had the black version, and I think the industrial design is really magnificent.2 points
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Back in 1997, long before MP3 was anything more than a concept, I was serving in the Air Force and frequently deployed overseas. Some guys on the squadron introduced me to a strange format for making music portable. MiniDisc. I soon got to learn that those tough little discs survived the rough-and-tumble of life in a kit-bag. We each bought portable players, and would ‘pool’ our discs together to make little music libraries, would trade discs with one another, and would copy CD’s for one another back home. No matter where we were in the world, AA batteries were easy to obtain, and just a handful of batteries would literally last weeks. It was a pocket-sized bit of luxury that we could carry with us, and I loved it. ......then, along came MP3 players and the ubiquitous ‘iPod’. Suddenly we could carry all of our music in a small space, and it seemed that the MiniDisc was dead. Within about 3 years everyone I knew had ditched the format and were literally giving away their discs and players, as were oil-rig workers, fishermen, and other locals who worked away from home for extended periods. I too, confined my MiniDisc collection to a box in the loft, and bought an iPod Classic. Fast-forward to 2005, and I deployed for a 4-month tour to Iraq. My iPod came with me, and I had the small luxury of my music collection to fall back on, OR SO I THOUGHT. By the second week I had the sickening ‘Sync Reset’ display (which of course was impossible without my PC) and in one fell swoop I lost my music. Other guys had problems with the portable power-generators cooking their wall-plug chargers, and soon quite a few of us had lost the use of our players, just when we would have appreciated them the most! Back home, and I was quickly falling out of love with my iPod. It seemed that whenever I updated my collection there would be issues with mixed/missing title-tracks and artwork. Any albums entitled ‘Greatest Hits’ would become an amalgamated mess, and whilst the battery-life seemed to get ever shorter, the demands for a ‘sync reset’ increased. The love was fading. I noticed something else, too. My listening habits were changing. My seemingly endless access to music made me a lazy listener, and I would frequently jump from album to album, track to track, and would often skip mid-way through a track. My days of listening to an album the way that the artist intended, had gone. This wasn’t music enjoyment. ....and so, by 2008 I was back to my MiniDisc, and what I revival it was! Equipment that had previously been prohibitively expensive was now dirt-cheap, and I was living the hobby like a millionaire! I soon had units for every occasion with Sony JA20ES and JA50ES decks for hifi use, numerous portable players, and a Pioneer MEH P9000 head-unit for the car. I could afford to be extravagant with discs, and my well used dozen or so swelled up to over 1,000. That was 10 years ago, and nothing much since then has changed. I still indulge in the childhood enjoyment of putting a ‘mixtape’ together in real-time, copying music from my CD’s and vinyl to Type-R SP to listen to in the car, or out walking the dog. Because space is at a premium my playlists are more carefully considered, and I listen to each track in full. My listening-habits are back to where they should be. In 20 years I can count on one hand the number of corrupted discs I’ve suffered, only ever having to re-copy one album. I keep discs and a spare player at work, in the summerhouse and in the car, and I have a physical, tangible connection with my music collection again. MiniDisc as a commercial format is dead, and I’m OK with that. It continues to live on in my household, and probably will do for years to come, maybe even for another decade or more. I continue to love the ‘forgotten format’, and those robust little discs give me everything I need.2 points
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Hi Folks, Long time no post, busy with child rearing. :-) I do stop by to read up on new posts and topics. I ran across this video on YouTube yesterday, sorry to post if everyone has already seen it but it was good to see and I wanted to share with all. Cheers!2 points
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It is currently admitted that the MZ-RH1 has the best DAC, ergo the best sound. I prefer however the sound of QS and ES Sony decks.2 points
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Hi all! So I've started a little project for myself. Minidisc never really caught on too well in canada so I won't be stmbling on any racks at the thrift shop anytime soon. I've been looking for storage solutions, haven't been a big fan of the wine box idea, generally I haven't seen anything that really caught my eye. For some reason it never dawned on me in the last year to 3D print some racks... I'm not sure why, I've been 3D printing everything else for years.... So I designed these up yesterday with some spare time. They're very rough still and very utilitarian. The larger one holds 10 discs and is meant to stack vertically (and has holes for nesting feet, and holes for screws). The smaller one to the right I haven't tested yet but I am thinking of a wall unit that makes the discs look like they are floating out of the wall. Edit wise I'm going to shrink the width by 2mm and perhaps put the discs at a slight downard angle rather than 90 degree so that if they were on an uneven surface, they'd still stay in the rack. What do you guys think? Feel free to toss any ideas my way! (also, for curiosity sake, the larger one took 8 hours to print! 3d printing is pretty cool but it's still a very slow process.) (The render) and printed2 points
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I got the drivers installed on my computer. I recommend watching this youtube video thats how i did it.2 points
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In case anyone is interested... I´ve written a review of the Sony MZ-R 50. http://marlene-d.blogspot.de/2013/07/the-legendary-sony-mz-r-50-review.html2 points
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I just wanted to say that it is nice to have some new members who are clearly MD lovers around to join in on the discussion and add new thoughts, ideas and opinions. Welcome all. :-)2 points
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Buy LIP-4 battery. First open all the cover of LIP-4. then you can small PCB. just remove the PCB using soldering iron or else. Do the same things with LIP-3 batteries. take the small PCB from LIP-3 and put to LIP-4 battery cell use soldering iron. Then cover you new battery, make sure it won't have electronics shortcuts. You'll have a new long lasting battery. It works on my MZ-N10.2 points
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I have a Sony MDS-JE780 for sale. It is silver and in mint condition as it has been hardly used. It is based in Wolverhampton so can be collected, or can be posted at additional cost. (I estimate about £7 with recorded delivery) £80 ono. Spec taken from the Sony website: Hybrid Pulse D/A Converter ATRAC DSP Type-S Long Time Recording and Playback (LP2, LP4) Pitch Control Scale Factor Edit NetMD Control A1 Keyboard Terminal 1 x Optical & 1 x Coaxial Input & 1 x Optical Output Available inblack and silverSee the link for more info.... http://www.sony.co.u...=TechnicalSpecs2 points
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MiniDisc is not useless; it's obsolete. There is a key difference. Nothing as multifaceted as a MiniDisc recorder can be said to be useless. That said, I think that even if Sony had marketed MiniDisc successfully, it would be obsolescent today because its competitors are more feature-rich. I have difficulty following some of the logic in this thread. MiniDisc and MP3 players both have shuffle functions. It's up to the user whether or not to use them, and absolutely nothing about an MP3 player compels one to do so. It SHOULD go without saying that either is just as capable of playing entire albums chronologically. You're arguing against your perceptions of MP3 users' supposed preferences, which are likely exaggerated and unfounded. The issue was the native functionality of the devices and which better suited the questioner. I still have my MiniDisc players, though I almost exclusively use my MP3 player (and never on shuffle). I may be returning to reporting soon and thus would use my MiniDisc to record, even though my MP3 player has a voice recorder. I also take out MiniDisc sometimes just for nostalgia. Whereas many of you are exalting album listening, I actually got into MiniDisc because it facilitated playlists, but now MP3 players do this better because the track need not be re-uploaded to form the playlist. Album listening has its advantages and purposes, but playlists demonstrate the user's creativity and make for great time travel. In my moments of nostalgia, I can call up playlists of the songs that defined eras I miss. It's a beautiful thing. One of you said you found MP3 players useless because they could not do all the things a MiniDisc player could. That depends on the MP3 player. (Further, it's a bogus statement because any mass storage device that plays music clearly has a twofold desirable purpose.) I actually can edit titles and move files on the go, but let's be honest: It is rare that such an act is of such pressing import that it can't wait until one gets home. My MP3 player is an Archos 5, which, like many MP3 players, has great sound quality, radio, a 250-gigabyte hard drive, a voice recorder, Wi-FI, Web radio and TV, DVR, picture display, and video. Useless because it's an MP3 player? Oh, brother. Much of this stems from your zeal to vindicate the MiniDisc, which I love. Another example is the citation of an intangible such as "cool factor," which lies in the eye of the beholder. Consider that being in the in-crowd like an Apple user can be said to be cool. Also, cool as in different just means anything opposed to the leading product, and that doesn't necessarily mean a MiniDisc. A lesser-known MP3 player can turn heads, but turning heads is not where the joy in product use lies. It is also flawed logic to assert that one likes MiniDisc because one prefers to carry around just a few albums. One can choose to listen to just a few on an MP3 player, first of all. The mere presence of all the other tracks you have neatly stored on the hard drive will not weigh heavily on the mind. Second, both MP3 players and MiniDiscs are mass storage devices. That's like one compulsive overeater defaming another because the other is even worse. That does not make you the icon of restraint; rather, you prefer a lesser example of excess. I do believe there still are real advantages to MiniDisc that relate to its native functionality. It's durable, sounds great, and records. It edges out MP3 in battery life, line-in recording, and usually voice recording. Actually, recording is where its greatest strength is now. Another strength is that different models are tailored to different uses; some have radio, some record and others have a digital amplifier, for instance. I love that my MP3 player works with Windows Media Player, which keeps track of the tracks you have and have not added to the device. Syncing automatically adds the new tracks. If I went back to MinDisc, I'd have to guess where I left off as I tried to upload all the music I have purchased since then to MiniDiscs. Also, I don't have to be bothered with SonicStage or ATRAC anymore, and I am glad. I don't have a second-generation Hi-MD player, so I can't put MP3s on them.2 points
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I have an N510 and a DN430. Both sound really good. I also have some S1's which, I know, are type R. They both sound excellent to me. I figured I'd take the (possible) slight noise quality hit and lack of remote for bombproof (especially in Orygun) performance of the S1. I can say those DN430's sound just fine. I think you can find that model with a radio too2 points
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Apologies for digging up an old post (I think I was on holiday when you posted these pictures) but just wanted to say how impressed I am by your skills in designing/building this. 100% looks like a professional product.1 point
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I've not bought any more discs since our last little box of MDW80Ts from Amazon.jp back in February. Although I did notice they're back in stock for UK delivery again 😂 I did pick up another MZ-R909 a month or so back as the dodgy jog dial on my silver one was continuing to annoy me. So I now have three of those 🤦♂️ Oh, and I got an MZ-E720 back in April, which I posted a photo of somewhere. Been doing more recording/playing than eBay hunting, which is probably a good thing...1 point
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@BearBoy - Yes - there's a difference. ATRAC3 data is stored in WAV, because the RIFF container (the specification that WAV files follow) allow that to happen. For ATRAC1 I couldn't go with WAV, since ATRAC1 isn't supported by the RIFF container. Instead WMD downloads these files as AEA (an old format that was created by MD Editor I think). Sir68k - another developer of netmd-exploits managed to add the ATRAC1 specification to the matroska file format, and we'll probably also try to do the same with ATRAC3, so that the container format will be unified. I'll soon publish a patch to FFMPEG which patch the matroska demuxer there. AEA files are terrible because it's hard to identify them - they don't have a "magic number", unlike WAVs, so the sooner we switch from them the better.1 point
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The MDW80Ts seem to drift in and out of stock at Amazon.co.jp, at least as far as sellers prepared to ship to the UK are concerned. Noticed they were back in stock today so placed an order. Worked out at £2.93 per disc including delivery. Must. Stop. Buying. More. Blanks. 🤦♂️ These also popped up whilst I was looking around the site: https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/Recording-80-Minutes-Piece-3mdw80rh-Original/dp/B016QJJVOO/ Reminded me of some of the artist MDs that @Richard posted recently. Not sure if "Red Hot" were a Japanese band or whether the photo card is for something completely different.1 point
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That's worked for me too, thanks @Richard. In case anyone is like me and didn't know how to clear the data for an individual site in Chrome, I found some instructions here: https://www.howtogeek.com/664912/how-to-clear-storage-and-site-data-for-a-single-site-on-google-chrome/1 point
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OK, thanks. That clarifies. I give up then for now - maybe new facts come after the remaining tests.1 point
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According to the Service Manual that error means: Error - F15 Symptom - Interval till MD starts playing is too long Possible cause - Pickup home position sense switch (S8) is defective; check and replace if necessary The part number is apparently RSP1A023-A No idea if this is of any help?1 point
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Instead of searching for an AA case only on eBay, most of the time for less than the double price you can find a cheap unit which include the AA external case plus some MD discs. This is how start a new collection (it begin with a good knowledge of the minidisc.org browser and FAQ). Try also to get a good MDLP type S deck, And in case Hi-MD format interested you, the first Hi-MD generation (NH600-700-900) is the cheapest and is more reliable (durability) than the next one. This my opinion.1 point
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I didn't check those places actually. While I've had my minidisc players for a while, I'm new to searching for anything on them on the internet. I only just decided to start searching the other day when I stumbled upon this forum. I just looked in both those places, and did manage to find a service manual for my SJ-MJ55 which will come in handy. Nothing on the slightly newer models, but that's ok, I'm still way further ahead with these other two service manuals. I've fixed both my SJ-MR100 players now, my other player wouldn't record, but that service manual gave me a helpful hint and I was able to get it both playing and recording like new.1 point
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The 333ES is so good, that its LP2 sounds good even without Type S. I got one when they were more reasonably priced, but it's now deceased and departed. The JE780 is well-spoken-of and while not exactly common, does turn up here and there for much less than the 333ES. I'm not sure the S500 was ever common, even in Japan. Don't know where you're looking, but besides eBay, you can always check out Buyee (http://buyee.jp/?lang=en). Lots of folks record optically from their PCs! (I sometimes do so from an iMac...my PC has coax out...that works, too.) I have a JA22ES, which seems to have a GUI that enables one to do titling and such from a PC, although I do not use that functionality. Anyway, good luck, be nice to know what you wind up with.1 point
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Battery - Lip-8 contains a very standard 14650 (and readily available) battery - easy to fit in the empty case - I just worked a blade around the seam, separated the case and pulled off the spot welded terminals with care (snipe nosed pliers did the trick for me). inserted new 14650 and reassembled the case around it (a snug fit, the lack of solder tabs didn't pose a problem). - Usual disclaimer about safety - Please note that I am only describing what I did, not how to do it yourself - Lithium batteries need special care.1 point
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More for the scrappad - the venerable MZ-1. The original BP-1 batteries are mostly deceased now and had limited capability. One rough and ready solution is to acquire a couple of lithium rechargeables type 14650 and an appropriate charger (available on ebay for around £10/$15/15euro the lot). Find some high density polystyrene and use a hobby knife to cut out three blocks (two for shimming and one to hold the home made end connector). Double sided tape will hold the shims in place. Fashion an end connector to sit in the battery doorway and provide contact/pressure - a couple of brass paper fasteners will do as well as anything.(Push them through the polystyrene and join them together at the rear) The result - a functioning portable player with no damage or modification. Lithium batteries need special care over charging - so a word of warning - Never plug in the MZ-1 charger while lithium batteries are inserted - it can be a dangerous thing to do. Never short the batteries and always check polarity when inserting. Pictures should be self explanatory. Enjoy the resurrection of the dinosaur!1 point
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I mostly agree with PhilippeC except that I do like the MDLP machines just because I can put more audio on them if I want to. My ears can't tell the difference between SP and LP2 anyway. I do have a couple of Hi-MD units but one is used to record a radio program every week and the other is a backup and my MZ-M200 is used to upload to my computer. I have about 300 or so blanks so I should be alright there (although sometimes that doesn't seem like it will be enough). I also agree with the AA battery because I don't think those will be going anywhere anytime soon.1 point
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I'm sorry but they are really hard to get. Sometimes you can get lucky by regularly checking on eBay or similar. They were never widely available as my Sony shop only ever carried one twin pack at an expensive £14.99. What supried me is the speed at which the blank disks were withdrawn from sale - under a year from the end of MZ-RH1 production. I don't know why that was.1 point
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1. How old were you when you first 'bought into' the format? 22 - in 1997 - i bought a MZ-R30 portable. 2. Do you still regularly use your very first player? No. Funny story really. I got my first portable whilst at University, and used it everywhere I went. Once I graduated a year later, I started driving everywhere so my MD was consigned to a drawer. I saved up for an in-car unit, and the R30 found a new purpose (recording discs for the car). Then the R30 died, so I replaced with a R90. Unfortunately, pretty soon after, my car was broken into and my in-car deck was stolen, along with the wallet containing all my discs. I couldn't bare to go through it all again, so I sold the R90 and replaced the in-car deck with a cd player. My MD days were over... 3. Do you regularly 'use' your items, or are some purely of interest as a 'collector'? I've just bought a MDS-JB940QS deck, because I miss MD, hate invisible music (ie mp3s), and love tangible formats (vinyl is my primary source of music). So not a collector, but hoping to become a regular MD user again (hence joining this community). 4. Do you listen to 'new' music on your discs, or prefer to keep the format for music 'of the era'? It'll be both. 5. Do you own more items than you can 'practically use'? In general, yes, but MD is a no. 6. Did you 'go away' from MiniDisc', only to return to it at a later date? Yes, about a 13 year gap. 7. Do you associate use of your player with 'fond memories', or is it a purely 'practical' consideration? I'd say in all honesty my return is more a nostalgic trip than a practical one, but I adore the tangible. My 'at-home' listening is always from either a vinyl record or a CD, and whilst I use my phone in the car and at work for music, I use my Spotify subscription. The sound quality is awful, even though I use a DAC.1 point
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Yes $10 for a new HI-MD blank is good...I've paid up to $25 for one once and I have seen them going for much more. But you have to be pretty desperate to pay over $25 for one.1 point
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Error Code: 00004e2e when I had this message too, it was because in the properties of my shortcut for ss I had specified :" launch programme in XP mode" while I was working with seven.1 point
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I like how they wrap up the discs so well, it almost makes it delicious enough to eat. And then with the fancy writing and pictures and all that colour makes you just want to buy some more discs. What would be cooler is if they had made discs with the shell made out of brushed aluminum, it would look beautiful and classy. I would buy a pack of 10 regardless of price.1 point
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Due to the nature of my work I cannot go into details. What I can say is when you overdraw the USB bus strange things can happen like uninitiated reboots or lockups. In extreme cases I have seen motherboard USB headers burned, motherboard traces burned. Small fires started by overdrawing current from the USB bus. Think about it. Most every item that has some sort of USB cradle has a seperate AC charger that plugs into the base of the charger. Why? Because in most cases the USB bus is not capable of providing the current necessary to charge modern day devices. There are items that can charge via USB like cell phones but the current draw is minimal. Most devices that don't have an AC charger connected to the base do not charge the device. Some devices that come immediately to mind are PDA's. The USB dock always has a seperate AC charger. There are MD units that cannot be charged via USB even though they have a USB dock. I have to take back my comment that it "can't" be done. Maybe I should reword it to say "Be very very careful!" As long as you fall within the USB specs for current draw you should be okay. National Semiconductor has an interesting article that is relevant to this discussion. It pertains to Li-Ion charging but maybe some knowledge can be gained from looking at the schematic they have for the charger they propose: http://www.national.com/appbriefs/files/AppBrief101.pdf1 point