sfbp

yep, all related. But I admit mine doesn't do that great a job charging NiMH gumsticks either. You will need some tools (meter, regulated power supply).

Jim and I have told you some of the things you must do to fix it. Most likely the very first power adjustment. Stephen

nope. you're doing just fine yes they should be simply deleted. They are copies of files which the installer has found somewhere else, to be truthful. Now you need to do final check using the instructions in this post to get rid of all "ghost" NetMD drivers. At that point the correctly edited version of NetMD760.inf should be able to be installed.

Not the title.... the contents. The MSUS are the memory stick drivers. The ones you need to get rid of are probably copies of things you made and are called oemxy.inf where x and y are numbers

PM sent

Even so, a D40 will set you back not very much at all, and should do the same job. Right now there are more D3's, I can see that. But it's likely that this is a temporary state of affairs. And.. to answer your question, the MXD-D3 is Atrac 4.5. This means that the later D40 will have better sound quality as it is "Type-R". If you look at completed MXD-D40 listings, there's one that failed to sell for £99, and one that did sell for £53. In the USA (granted the transformer being different requires a small expenditure for step-down but it's no big deal, the shipping may be more costly of course) one went for $125.

I would invest in a (free) copy of EAC.

ALL 3 OF THEM!!!!!!!!!! You edited NETMD760 somewhere else (ie NOT in windowsinf???) Anything "new" that looks like it is to do with NetMD (you'll have to inspect each one carefully) will also need to be deleted.

Try searching on this in Ebay 380403832768 There are a variety of vendors on Ebay UK, you'll have to go there yourself (as opposed to ebay.com), including some that I frankly would not touch, nor will Sony's lawyers allow you to. But note that the Pro version (which will turn up in your search) typically goes for 10x as much, and you probably don't need it.

Never fear, I am uploading the SM as I type. The transformer (for the UK version) is 1-435-386-11 (US/Can is 1-435-385-11). Stephen

That may be but the first one I got had a busted overwrite ribbon cable (which was duly repaired). Sergio says in his review of MDLP that the sound is not great. I would be much more inclined to get one of the later Type-S models on general principles. I remember sticking an SP disk in my (dirt-cheap) MZ-NE410 (there are MZ-DN430's to be had for not very much money these days) and handing it to my Ipod-wielding son. "Holy ****" was the response. I see no particular reason to go for this generation of portable. The later ones are better. The only problem you may have is that the cheapies (like the ones I mentioned above) do not have optical input. So you are stuck waiting for the linux-minidisc project to get their act(s) together to allow SP downloads, if it can be done (I say if, because I'm still a wee bit sceptical). But you shouldn't pay that much for N510,N710 or even top-of-the-line N910 in today's marketplace.

You'd be better off with an MXD-D40 in my view - as this supports M-Crew operation from the PC. Also if you need optical out (for modern amplifiers) then we're talking a bit of electronic hacking, on any of these except the MXD-D400.

You should NOT touch any file which isn't the one you modified and half-installed. In fact arranging the inf directory by date (in details view in Explorer) should catch it quite nicely. Something else. Did you actually call it NetMD76.inf? There's an 0 missing from that name - i.e. NetMD760.inf.

Sorry to hear of your troubles. This appears to be a particularly asinine decision by Sony, not to put a regular ethernet connector on the unit. The NAS-CZ1 for example uses a perfectly bog-standard RJ45. NAS-IX001 CPF-NW001P as well as yours.

It's the only way I know to have HiMD, MD, AVI (and all other video formats including a second DVD drive for out-of-region DVDs) on tap and keep the high quality sound of ATRAC.

I'll defend HTPC to my last breath. However probably none of the 'canned' solutions will work.

Hang on folks. Jim H. has a huge variety of equipment lying around.. and I bet he can fix it.

What I can tell you about the IOP business is this: what it comes down to is that, on decks at least, the read adjustment is much more critical than the write adjustment (on portables, at least HiMD portables, it seems to be the other way around, the write adjustment is more fussy). Since write works easily (unless the head is blown, probably by adjustment passing too much current, but also perhaps from mechanical wear on the ribbon cable) what we are discussing may still be consistent with a unit that is having trouble reading once in a while. The good news is, using a maladjusted unit to READ will never blow it up, unless you deliberately set the read power huge multiples of what it is supposed to be. Write will typically work most of the time, but overpowering it can blow the mechanism. So I found when learning the hard way to do adjustments, that it's quite easy to have a deck that cannot read what it (just now) wrote perfectly. Hope this helps. Stephen

Bruce - wondering if you should simply follow the procedure for "resume clear" which is common to most decks......? Sorry that may be the name they use for portables, I'm possibly confused. But there is a moment when you have finished with decks where you are supposed to press "REPEAT" (check with the exact service manual). The heading is "RELEASING THE TEST MODE". The key is that the unit should display "Initializing.." after you do that. Perhaps what is needed is to put it BACK into Service Mode then do this "Initialize", to get out, rather than unplugging.

Yes what you saw is exactly corresponding to what I would expect with a deck that has been in service mode. Probably unplugging it from the wall and reconnecting it got it out of s.m.

Sounds like a Jim Hoggarth problem to me......

My TV (Sony Bravia) has a USB port. I recently purchased a 16GB microSD card that came with three adaptors: 1. for microSD->Sony MS slot 2. for microSD->SD slot 3. for SD slot -> USB I imagine some TV's must have at least one or more of these sockets. My printer (HP) does. My Hard disk/DVD recorder does (although it's limited to 2GB). So presumably that would answer your complaint? I checked, and fairly predictably, the TV refuses to play .AVI files. But it is supposed to play .mpg files (movies) and I am sure I tried this previously, with success. Wanting firmware to do this seems a reasonable request. Some later models can play mp4 files as well. I like your solution. There's a totally generic solution also, namely a Windows PC with HDMI output. You can buy one or have a local store make one suitable for HTPC use for a few hundred dollars. This removes dependence on firmware as there are a variety of software players (my favourite being VLC) that will play anything at all.

Not sure. The D400 has this special quad-clock circuit that I haven't spotted in any other unit.....