sfbp

wouldn't you go for this one, John? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-MINI-ALPINE-MD53-R50-RADIO-MINI-DISC-PLAYER-WARRANTY-/120894560785 Looks like these people have a stack of such things....

I never talked about price If you absolutely have to have a recording "rescued" from MD, the issue is "how can I do it?" which I think is adequately covered in this thread. As you can see, it depends on how it got onto MD in the first place, and exactly what kind of MD. Anyone here with an RH1 would probably help you if it's just a couple of disks. If you have hundreds of them then you will need to buy one. However that's all secondary to how the tracks were created.

Here for example: http://page16.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/u40380008 You may find this page (which has that link in it) slightly more useful. http://auctions.search.yahoo.co.jp/search?tab_ex=commerce&ei=euc-jp&fr=auc-prop&rkf=1&p=%A5%BD%A5%CB%A1%BC%A1%CBHi-MD%A5%A6%A5%A9%A1%BC%A5%AF%A5%DE%A5%F3&f=0x2&alocale=0jp&apg=1&s1=end&o1=a&mode=2&auccat=0 Even better if you can find someone to read Japanese as the translator on some sites doesn't work too well on these pages.

Just a quick note: there are even (also) HiMD player-only units. The MZ-EH70 for example (basically anything that starts with EH) is rugged as all get out, and can play MDLP as well as all the HiMD modes. Of course then you will need a HiMD unit to make the disks, but the EH series will still be completely unconnectable to a computer, so satisfying your requirements. This means you can easily get 16 or 30 hours on a single 1GB disk for listening.

Looking at the cited page on MDCF page, there's a 1998 in one of the link URL's for the 2300R. On the 2000R page there's a reference to '97. These "Intro 1" or "Intro 2" don't really mean anything but in this case year "0" appears to be 1996.

Just to set the record straight... there is NO encryption in Atrac Advanced Lossless. Not with the latest SS, and I am certainly not going back to attempt to verify it for old versions.

As did the "released" version of 4.3 from Sony. Avrin very kindly removed that for us before install. I am pretty sure the trick came from raintheory, so I wanted to give the latter acknowledgement.

AKAIK Sony never had a "real" all-in-one download. That is you first downloaded some program, and it then went to get the rest. The beauty of what Avrin packaged together (jt's our most popular D/L) is that it's all in one place and the pieces have been quite a bit updated, to fix bugs, improve codecs and so on, especially to make it easy to install over any previous install including 4.3, with no glitches whatever. So, thanks for the offer, but don't think anyone (except you) actually NEEDS 4.2, so we'll leave things as is. Anyone is welcome to voice their opinion, which they can by adding to this thread. Stephen

YES IT WILL I've been running 4.3 on XP-Pro for over 3 years now.

You do NOT need 4.2 to run under VIsta. Use the Ultimate 4.3 (from here) and all will be just fine.

Perhaps you should look at the last thing *you* changed. Candidates: - update of SonicStage - Different HiMD upload unit - Revision to Windows Certainly your question is a very curious one to me. Perhaps what you need to do is to look at the columns displayed in SonicStage. Maybe you now are suppressing the one that gave you this information before. However it has been my overwhelming impression that one did NOT get date/time of recording when uploading UNtitled MD tracks. So if you did it before, please work out why/how and tell us. We'd love to know......

... but the diehards will tell you, that SP is not "real SP" since due to the contortions in SS (probably to comply with the licence from Dolby), SP is never generated on the PC side, but the whole thing goes VIA LP2. Therefore with SS, you will never equal "true" SP (which is an amazing format - 24 bit floating point accuracy, actually one step better than a "real" CD).

Yeah, the 930 is a quite significant upgrade from the 920 as it has Type-R (CXD2656R) and keyboard control. Also S-link/A1 but not sure that's any use with a PC - it won't work with M-Crew, I think. Nice machine.

Sorry, not much help as I haven't tried this. May have a W7/64 (incidentally it nearly always turns out to be 64-bit Windows, not the move to V7, that is the problem in things relating to legacy software like SS) in my hands in a couple of weeks, and will be intrigued to see what happens. There's a control layer called px20.sys (if I remember right) that is inserted by SS to do its dirty work. Perhaps it doesn't work in Window/64. But there may be more subtle (and more simple) things at work. I recall there's a lot of spiel about W7 and Vista being drive-letter agnostic. Did you somehow turn off the drive letter recognition that SS is relying on? Just a random thought..... especially if there are other devices around. Ahhhhhh.... this machine of yours doesn't happen to have a SSD??? (all flash memory, no hard disk). I have no clue what that does to the drive map. Maybe nothing, maybe a CD/DVD drive on C:? One way or another it sounds like SS needs to be introduced to your burner. There's supposed to be a procedure which is automatically entered by SS, which tests drive speed for audio EXTRACTION - perhaps doing that will set up the PX20 layer? Just a few ideas. You'll have to mess around. No one has reported this as a bug yet (AFAIK) but that doesn't mean you did anything wrong, either. Keep us informed of your progress, please.

Well done! I edited my post to delete the reference to menu, since presumably the group button was the one required. If that's not the case (ie menu is the constant button held down) shout loudly. I don't want to be responsible for people trashing their gear.

This might be a project for Jim Hoggarth who lives in Bradford. He has a very reasonable charge for servicing. My experience (and memory, don't kill me if I got it wrong) was it's the very first (or one of the ones near the top) of the adjustments on page 18 of the service manual which you can find here or at minidisc.org. If your screen on the machine is very dim (maybe you got used to it!!!) that's another indication I may be correct.

Try this - you'll need the RM-MC40ELK connected of course..... turn on Hold hold down group FF FF RW RW FF RW FF RW || || (the last two are pause). (the user manual calls RW "FR", a strange designation). (for all I know you may be able to do the FF and RW on the 40ELK but I wouldn't bother). However once you have it in Service Mode, you may want to use the Vol+ and Vol- buttons on the remote instead of the ones on the 5-way control. To get out of service mode remove the battery. Now, if someone could only tell me how to get into service mode for the EH70 (not that it matters since neither of mine has the Eurocap). I recently bought one of the HD generation (NWZ-A1200 to be exact). All the Eurocap seems to do is to make the whole thing utterly muddy. Once I had removed it, I could listen happily at 10 or 11 where before had me turning it up to 19-20 and still cursing the loss of clarity which is the ATRAC trademark. Sort of like building a Ferrari and then insisting it run on cotton wool wheels...? I sympathise with your predicament.

If that includes using a remote, then you have got a weird one. Are you sure you didn't leave it in Service Mode or summat? If it works fine with the remote, you have got a "power-to-the-buttons" problem. This is sometimes fixed by cleaning contacts, but more usually by adjusting the overall power to the unit. Certainly for my NH900 the screen was v dim when I first got it. If you can do it, it's the very first item in the Power Adjust sequence, I think.

Huh? There's no keyboard connector. I know what you mean about the superior remote - there are more keys, one per letter for starters, but the addition of a PS/2 keyboard (on the 980) is admirable compensation for that. The trick I used (before I defected to M-Crew which doesn't actually work on either of these decks) is to have the MD deck hooked to one keyboard output of a KVM (multi-PC peripheral sharing device). Of course now you can't look at the PC screen to copy information, but with a laptop, it's possible to make a work around for that..... Maybe you had an MDS-JB930?

Pressing cancel only supposed to set the machine charging from power adapter. Normally should turn off as soon as doing nothing for a minute or two. If you mean that it hangs, writing the TOC for example, then it needs adjusting (or worst case, the head replacing).

try this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Toolzone-16Pc-Precision-Screwdriver-Set/dp/B001O9RL7G avoid the ones with multibits and a single large driver. the individual handled ones will be better for you

I don't think he means the videos, but the NAC-HD1

Even the lowly CMT-PX3 (DHC-MD595) has the CXD-2662R (and so do quite a few others including the MDS-PC3) chip. I find that (Type-R) compression with these decks is mostly flawless, and I am not even sure that Type-S beats that. Most of the expense of the decks of that period goes into terrific D->A circuitry. As you say, optical out removes that responsibility entirely from the deck and places it squarely on the shoulders of the amplifier/receiver, which is where it should be anyway. Of course the models I cite cannot do 24-bit optical, whereas the ones you mention (940, 555, 333) all have the choice to do 16 and 24-bit. I look forward to the day when I can make a real comparison with 24-bit optical I/O.

Did you solve this? Looks like maybe everything works fine but you needed to have the destination set. a. you can right-click the oma file in SonicStage and choose where you want to send it (after the fact) or.. b. set up the destination for conversion to WAV in the menu... Look here: Tools->Options->Transfer->HiMD (Transfer Settings->Advanced->Location). The last window is hard to find and probably points somewhere that doesn't exist, currently. Or you can disable the automatic conversion to WAV by unchecking the box just above the "LocatIon" field you just found, and doing the conversion as in a. above. I assume you recorded in HiSP (or PCM or Hi-LP) - because if you recorded in "legacy" modes (SP, LP2, LP4, Mono) then you would not have been able to get the .oma file on the computer. Stephen

The connection from the wall to the RH1 is in THREE pieces: 1. The USB to USB-mini cable 2. The cuboid (rectangluar prism) adapter 3. The AC cable from #2 to the wall. Only #3 differs. The cable that plugs into the AC end of the adapter is very very standard, I have at least 6 of them on other devices. And have a spare ones lying around (except that most of my stuff is in storage at this precise moment). Just to ram it home, on the front of the adapter it says "100-240V AC, 50/60 Hz".