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sfbp

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Everything posted by sfbp

  1. sfbp
    I spent many hours on these boards explaining that the manual stating "OverLight Head" in fact meant "OverWrite Head". Touche Actually the explanation given by the manual is correct. The tab is more reflective than no tab. I think i prefer surround-typical ;(
  2. sfbp
    New issue: whether the E10 actually NEEDS the SC at all. There are lots of MDM-7's about. (looks on eBay) OMG, you're in luck, in the next county no less: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sony-MDS-JE440-Minidisc-Player-Recorder/264313058734
  3. sfbp
    Try googling SIRCS. It's sony's protocol for remote control, used in (among other things) Unilink and IR remotes. Largely undocumented, it is nevertheless a kind of standard. Sorry, for some reason I had it in my head that there was a DB9 with a standard RS232. In fact the only interconnection is achieved by a PS/2 interface, which effectively brings out IIC control bus to the PS/2 port, the same as the lower-end models around this time that had keyboards. (side note; I have long tinkered with the US version of the MXD-D5C, and wondered about the JB940 too, as the Japanese version of both supports PS/2 control via PCLK-MN10/MN20 - but no luck. If I understood a bit more about the way that SIRCS works, maybe it would be possible to convince them to work as slaves). Coming back to your E10, then I've perpetrated another one of my in-the-night-can't-sleep goofs. The one which does the RS232 is the E11. But it is possible that the SIRCS interface is stuck somehow sending signals to the drive? That might explain the IIC/STOP thing.
  4. sfbp
    Probably better to start a thread in the discussion sections, I almost missed this. I would guess this is some side effect of the NetMD driver being misinstalled: 1. Remove your NetMD unit from the USB 2. Do a SS install over the top of the one you have. Don't try to deinstall anything (yet) 3. Clean up and get rid of all traces of the 32-bit NetMD drivers. There are numerous posts on this, but in particular you have to watch out for oem<nn>.inf in the (hidden) WINDOWS\inf subdirectory. 4. Now plug in the portable (make sure you're on mains power, batteries especially rechargeable ones are useless for NetMD) and go through the installation of the 64-bit driver, if necessary using the Update Driver thing in Device Manager. I assume your version of Windows is 64-bit. If it's 32 bit windows, you have a completely different problem, since the standard drivers should work. If this all sounds way too technical (because it is), let's take it back to first principles and get one observation at a time. Your description doesn't make it clear the order of events, and once something has gone wrong, then after that first error all other weirdnesses are likely to be meaningless. What model minidisk are you plugging in? If it's HiMD, maybe you don't even need the NetMD support at all. Hope this helps.
  5. sfbp
    A random thought or two: 1. The SC suffix to the board, does that mean Serial Control? If you don't care about automated operation, maybe you can swap in an MDM-7 from some much less fancy unit and get away with it. 2. The ONLY other model that supports that particular board is the one you have, the E12. If you like the features of the E10 (optical i/o in particular) then you could swap the board, leaving you with a dead E12 which is also a good source for parts. This might (provided you're careful, and I have no idea what I mean by that) allow you to check that the fault is even IN the BD board, hence my questions about the cables. You seem far more experienced and better equipped than I am, so I am sure you can judge this correctly. 3. The SIRCS is a separate board. What happens if you disconnect it? Maybe this is equivalent to 1 above without the hassle of introducing a new MDM-7 to the system.
  6. sfbp
    What's that "263" thing in the pic? Looks like a little mechanical sensor to me. Strange label "4-226-990-01 BASE (BU-A)". Sorry, as I say I've never had to mess with it. But if the spring is dodgy or the contact doesn't close when disk inserted, there's your culprit.
  7. sfbp
    Belt needs to be replaced on most models which do this. I haven't looked at the service manual, so please forgive me if there's no belt in sight there.
  8. sfbp
    same driver for all (pick 32 or 64 bit)
  9. sfbp
    Is the sensor that detects the presence of the disk working? I know where it is on the portables but I've never had this problem with a deck. It (the fault) could be mechanical or electrical in nature, it is easy to imagine the former, but without knowledge of the mechanism......
  10. sfbp
    Often the problem is the other way around. I would be inclined to look carefully at the manual and see what the resting position for that rack is. Maybe it has to be moved one tooth either way.
  11. sfbp
    Looks like it's installing generic AVC drivers instead of your Sony ones. What about the FW interface on your PC? That seems to be crucial. You (maybe) need to uninstall the generic (microsoft) drivers for FW (1394) and AVC and replace with the ones a. for your FW hardware b. from Sony for Lissa. Can you disable the onboard 1394 and buy a card which works? Such as: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ali-1394-Card-4-Firewire-Ports-P-N-14122000-PC25/173872399700?epid=1756477557 or https://www.ebay.com/itm/PCIE-PCI-E-Firewire-IEEE-1394-3-Port-PCI-Express-Card-6pin-9pin-Adapter-for-PC/390695346024 depending on the bus socket you have to use.
  12. sfbp
    Yeah. There's no such thing as a variation in optical output. You get what you get, and it's pretty consistent. Glad you got it sorted.
  13. sfbp
    IIC stop is referring to the control bus. If that's broken, all bets are off. You need to check ALL ribbon cables very carefully, with a multimeter. Good luck!
  14. sfbp
    Great to know!
  15. sfbp
    Are you talking about analog or digital out?
  16. sfbp
    Make sure the rack moves properly. Did you use the specified belt or guess? It may be that it needs to be tighter (compare 7:55 and onward). My recollection is that when it's right, it was always hard to get on. If you slipped it on easily, it's not the right belt.
  17. sfbp
    The big answer is: because the belt slipped. I think there's a spring that counterbalances (like most of their mechanisms) so that movement in one direction or the other may be slightly favoured. There's no big deal about the belt - it's a fancy rubber band, some used Orthodontic ones but you can buy selections of O-rings here https://www.ebay.com/itm/225Pcs-Rubber-O-Ring-Washer-Assortment-Set-Hydraulic-Plumbing-Gasket-Seal-Kit/172535750679 Good luck! Stephen
  18. sfbp
    Sorry no clue. You should try the virtual win32 version as it may be more stable, if it runs. Some other things to try: - compatibility mode for application - turn OFF UAC - turn OFF DEP - have less than 3GB memory in machine (real or virtual) so PAE is not involved - check BIOS for odd settings to do with memory remapping - check Sony manual and website for comments about compatibility - connect with different kinds of USB (1.1, 2.0 and 3.0) - check with DEPView to see status of all devices under USB mounted and non-mounted - go into devMgr, turn on hidden devices, and clean up the device map ('m sure you've already done this).
  19. sfbp
    guaranteed these drivers (from the age of Lissa) will not work with Win64 you will have to hook up either: WinXP (assumed 32 bits) or Win7-32 (there are indeed win10-32 installations around as well) OR: a Virtual XP under Win 7 (a freebie from MSFT) which will be 32 bits. In this case you install the drivers by a weird process and you have to connect the drivers to the virtual machine each time you start Virtual XP. This is, for example, the only way to run M-Crew which relies on 32- bit drivers. We don't worry so much about SonicStage under Win64 because we have drivers.
  20. sfbp
    That's great, Kris. I'm almost inclined to order one against the day one of my decks dies.
  21. sfbp
    Even with solder bridge? You may still need dual regulated PS for voltage adjustment of USB, though.
  22. sfbp
    i think the best way to go back is to do a 911 followed by a self-alignment. More later, in a rush here.
  23. sfbp
    Here you go
  24. sfbp
    Search on here using google. Some one did a guide to remotes.
  25. sfbp
    Now I understand, you don't have the right RM-MC<whatever>. Your best bet is to buy a used MZ-R50 and try. Not worth trying to source the OEM remote. This page may be helpful. It does seem that anything up to and including R37 is DIFFERENT http://minidisc.org/part_Remote_Control_Sony.html
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