sfbp

Get either: a. a deck which predates NetMD (most decks) or b. a busted MD player that doesn't work (because OW head is open circuit). This will erase everything on your first attempt to write.

There's no belt. Probably the lead screw needs lubrication. DO NOT USE OIL.

I have an Aussie adapter which I will never use; its number is AC-ES3010K. Send me a private message and we can talk.

i bought a laser at discount a while back, but I think it was a KMS260 (will look). I've definitely been known to look at these things, and yes, I do have a LPM. I didn't realise Jonathan had interpreted your forays into Service Mode, sorry. Planning to drive to these parts any time soon?

"the local repair shop"? Does he have a laser power meter, specifically one that is suitable for use in this situation? Trust me, merely replacing the laser won't do it. I have suffered through all of this especially with "local repair shop"s......

I have zero experience of these pro-grade decks. However my belief is that they are all basically the same, albeit with slightly better components than the consumer models. Anything involving reading, there are two things to consider: 1. The sled 2. The laser adjustment. This sounds like #1. If it were #2 you'd get exactly nothing, not even a TOC. If you do get it apart, make sure you clean off the fossilised grease from the lead screw that moves the head sideways (don't worry about up/down for now), and DO NOT replace with oil. You need exactly the right kind of silicone grease (usually it's white but YMMV) to replace it with. Second time this week. They're all getting to that age where the grease congeals. I don't think it's the weather in SK causing this, but you might try a hair dryer first to warm it up. Be very careful you don't fry something or melt something (except that grease). We just had snow (again), then hail. One of those weird winters (for us) Stephen PS I just remembered the other cause/symptom of this behaviour is a toothed wheel missing one tooth, which can happen. In this case we now have people who have worked out how to 3D print the cog. Stick around.....

Whoops, I posted an answer to this. Did OP restart the topic? Weird. Recommend the Sony RM-VL600 (there's also a silver model) https://www.ebay.com/itm/SONY-RM-VL-600-Multi-Function-Learning-Universal-Remote-Control/273663022924 You'd have to borrow a real remote from someone to program the VL600 but I am fairly sure you could do it.

Recording doesn't work too well, Philippe. This is a player-only. My limited experience is that players basically work or they don't. I did manage to repair an E909 but the repair had nothing to do with service mode or anything else. It was a simple matter of assembling it perfectly so there was no extra force required (of any component in the system) to function. I'd be inclined to open it up and see if the head sled moves nicely when you turn the lead screw. If not, it needs CLEANING (not more grease) followed by just enough of exactly the right silicone grease in exactly the right place. Too much and it ends up on the MD's. The fact you can sometimes see the tracks sounds to me like a unit that isn't seeking properly.

Just tested it, and no, you need the dock, sadly. Three ways to tell it's charging: a. Red light on unit b. battery charge icon on display on unit body c. battery charge icon on remote When I tried it (charging from cable only), they were all blank (although the PC connection was registered). I even afterwards went the extra mile and instead of connecting to PC, used a Samsung wall charger. No luck.

Oops guys. MZ-E10. Not MDS-E10. Note to OP,.... the E10 is one of the few completely unrepairable units at least according to Jim.

I've said this a hundred times if I've said it once: we don't have any Vaio expertise here. This forum is historically about digital music. Sounds like a filter problem to me. Read up on driver filters, and delete the lower and upper filters for your dvd/cd drive. An odd thought: is this something to do with region? Shouldn't matter for data. If this machine was intended for somewhere other than North America....... Welcome; but I don't think people here can help you. Sorry.

huh? 1. Please state what you are trying to do and for what hardware 2. Please state what does happen There is an infinite number of unavailable files out there in the universe. However the ones that have drivers for NetMD are present. I just checked.

I have no clue, but one of the strange things you learn in software is that initial state is everything. I would be inclined to remove all power from everything. Especially whatever is driving the bluetooth. Another thing to try is to take the bluetooth somewhere well away from the TV and/or any wifi (they use similar frequencies and have been known to interfere, also microwave ovens). Leave it all off overnight. You may be surprised in the morning. I know there are many software issues I have done all the right steps, only to find that next day everything was right - whereas immediately afterward it looked like the whole world was ^$%^&'d. Good luck. I'm afraid this forum isn't likely to be of much help; I've never seen anything like this - but welcome!

Version of Windows 32-bit or 64-bit? Have you removed all the oem<nn>.inf? (?"huh"? I hear you say) Have you turned on hidden devices and removed all NetMD whether visible or not? Have you enabled the installation of unsigned drivers? (requires restart of W10) Not to jump down your throat or anything..... but it WILL work. When you get it right.

Installing a driver only happens when you have a unit plugged in that is requesting a driver. Maybe you have to "update" - start in device manager with the device which will have a VID of x054C (Sony). If this description is way too nerdy, we'll try to walk you through the steps. If you need help, it is best to tell us your hardware and software in detail. Thanks

You can use regular alkaline batteries (yes I know there is a cost involved, but for live recording it is strongly recommended not to rely on rechargeables). You can use standard NiMH AA rechargeables, no need for NiCd, we have all forgotten about them long ago. For USB transfers, on this generation you will get much better results if the unit is plugged into the mains. No power arrives at the unit via USB (I guess that means it's USB 1.0 or 1.1?). However this observation is not true for some later models, notably any HiMD unit. I hope you are not about to be disappointed: there is NO sync-to-PC function. The only function available is sync-to-MD on these units. Welcome to our site.

Here you go: https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/h189664296 Best be quick.,,,, only 2 hrs left

Right. The 555 is *very* similar. Just not sure how many MD's the 555 has, whereas the 575 clearly has 3 MD. Yes good to see y'all too. Chris had trouble getting upgraded from pHp 5 to 7, and real life got in the way. I know how he feels.

Doubtless you need the service manual. Is it the MD or the CD you need help with? There's a manual for 555 in english but I think it may only have 1 md and 3 CD's.

I can't remember if there is a FUSE on the power supply..... seems possible. But Kris is right, a damaged ribbon cable seems likely.

Right, a resampler (such as the Ultramatch Pro) does a good job by upsampling to a much higher rate first, making the 48->44.1 transition much cleaner.

Sorry, but the MDS-JE520 will not play MDLP disks. That's why you see the LP: sign. You need at a bare minimum, an MDS-JE440 (-640 would be better).

Philippe, he was asking about portables. You CANNOT get optical signal out from a portable. Only from a deck. The analog connx is a standard headphone-fitting 3.5 mm Stereo Jack. For input it plugs into the same physical socket as the TOSLink. For output you can use the headphone socket (with or without the MD remote). Finally if you have something you want to record on MD using TOSLink), strongly recommend you first downsample it to 44.1, not to 48, since the MD circuit now has to resample the 48->44.1, which is kinda messy. PS if you have a Coax source you have two choices: a. buy a MD deck that has a Coax digital socket for input b. buy a S/PDIF Coax to Optical converter (or make one yourself, it's not that complicated) for $20.

That's because you cannot write more than 1700 characters to a minidisc. BUt a different problem from OP, I think.