sfbp

You'll probably need the NETMD760 64-bit Windows driver, although I don't know about your Windows install since you didn't give details. There are a number of things you may have to do to get rid of the drivers installed by SonicStage (but only if you have to, know what I mean?).

I have no idea what's going on here, but you do not mention a device that can be connected to USB. The only one that will work is the NF810. I trust that means the adapter arrived safely!? Stephen

Try here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?ul_noapp=true&_nkw=rm+u306a+remote&_sop=15 I think as long as made by Sony, the "generic" replacements would be fine.

The second link wasnt working originally, so I fixed it

Don't even think about sending it by courier. I was absolutely assuming you might be heading this way some time - and if you are, you'd be welcome to drop by. I think shipping a heavy unit would be a. expensive and b. possibly injurious especially when we don't know exactly what's wrong with it. Stephen

Assuming you mean the Japanese one, I read the translation of his notes about what he does (this is not a one-off). It sounds like he stands behind them, and was until recently in the business of fixing machines like yours with a stock he'd purchased. The details presented make it seem likely he's in control of the situation. If it was the one from Greece, that will be a very interesting story! Either way, I'm intrigued to see this machine in action so if your guy there isn't 100% sure, I volunteer to take a look at it. Stephen

<flame on> Honestly I don't see the problem. If you take the view that you prefer SP (and it's well documented in these pages that SP is actually an inferior codec possibly backed up by very expensive hardware and some tweaks) then any SP-only recording device will allow you to delete these pesky tracks. At the time, they didn't want people yelling at them because after deleting them there was no way to correct checkout counts. Their idea was "check it back in, and all will be well". The whole number-of-copies thing is arguable - Amazon does it, Apple does it (I assume) and the law provides for it under the term "fair usage". If you recall, Sony's history was that they faced the first ever trillion dollar lawsuit for inventing the VCR - MPAA were as mad as hornets, and that likely almost cost Sony their existence. As for the other ways that they made it hard or impossible to clone digital music, who can blame them when half of their business was supporting real artists and recording contracts? And all of this is now relaxed with a. the MZ-RH1 and b. the File Conversion Tool and c. VLC. So complaining about trackprotect seems to me to be an Aunt Sally (or Straw Man if you prefer) to be set up in order to rubbish Sony. I feel I must be blunt here. There's one more (odd) reason to be grateful for Sony's "protection". In many other industries, people will sell copies of things that are only 90% functional (low rate MP3 recordings come instantly to mind). If you can actually decode the sound from an MD, it's very likely to be un-tampered-with. In the long term this builds perceived brand reliability. <flame off>

Tough

Search in ebay and you'll find the Greek guy immediately. I'm surprised the package would be that expensive. From Japan is frequently cheaper for the same deal. But you could buy that MDS302 for $ 68.....

I finally checked... yes the one I bought against a rainy day is a KMS260E Here's the good news: https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/h381715357 18 Hours to go. Time enough to get registered with one of the Japanese shopping services (such as Buyee) Good luck! One more thing, assuming Philippe is correct, you can buy an MDS-302 here PS. someone may have mentioned this but there's a guy in Rhodos (Greece) that has lots of them (KMS-210A), removed from ?dead equipment. I suppose you might get lucky, or simply contact him to ask what it might take to repair either the one you have or the one he would sell you.

Get either: a. a deck which predates NetMD (most decks) or b. a busted MD player that doesn't work (because OW head is open circuit). This will erase everything on your first attempt to write.

There's no belt. Probably the lead screw needs lubrication. DO NOT USE OIL.

I have an Aussie adapter which I will never use; its number is AC-ES3010K. Send me a private message and we can talk.

i bought a laser at discount a while back, but I think it was a KMS260 (will look). I've definitely been known to look at these things, and yes, I do have a LPM. I didn't realise Jonathan had interpreted your forays into Service Mode, sorry. Planning to drive to these parts any time soon?

"the local repair shop"? Does he have a laser power meter, specifically one that is suitable for use in this situation? Trust me, merely replacing the laser won't do it. I have suffered through all of this especially with "local repair shop"s......

I have zero experience of these pro-grade decks. However my belief is that they are all basically the same, albeit with slightly better components than the consumer models. Anything involving reading, there are two things to consider: 1. The sled 2. The laser adjustment. This sounds like #1. If it were #2 you'd get exactly nothing, not even a TOC. If you do get it apart, make sure you clean off the fossilised grease from the lead screw that moves the head sideways (don't worry about up/down for now), and DO NOT replace with oil. You need exactly the right kind of silicone grease (usually it's white but YMMV) to replace it with. Second time this week. They're all getting to that age where the grease congeals. I don't think it's the weather in SK causing this, but you might try a hair dryer first to warm it up. Be very careful you don't fry something or melt something (except that grease). We just had snow (again), then hail. One of those weird winters (for us) Stephen PS I just remembered the other cause/symptom of this behaviour is a toothed wheel missing one tooth, which can happen. In this case we now have people who have worked out how to 3D print the cog. Stick around.....

Whoops, I posted an answer to this. Did OP restart the topic? Weird. Recommend the Sony RM-VL600 (there's also a silver model) https://www.ebay.com/itm/SONY-RM-VL-600-Multi-Function-Learning-Universal-Remote-Control/273663022924 You'd have to borrow a real remote from someone to program the VL600 but I am fairly sure you could do it.

Recording doesn't work too well, Philippe. This is a player-only. My limited experience is that players basically work or they don't. I did manage to repair an E909 but the repair had nothing to do with service mode or anything else. It was a simple matter of assembling it perfectly so there was no extra force required (of any component in the system) to function. I'd be inclined to open it up and see if the head sled moves nicely when you turn the lead screw. If not, it needs CLEANING (not more grease) followed by just enough of exactly the right silicone grease in exactly the right place. Too much and it ends up on the MD's. The fact you can sometimes see the tracks sounds to me like a unit that isn't seeking properly.

Just tested it, and no, you need the dock, sadly. Three ways to tell it's charging: a. Red light on unit b. battery charge icon on display on unit body c. battery charge icon on remote When I tried it (charging from cable only), they were all blank (although the PC connection was registered). I even afterwards went the extra mile and instead of connecting to PC, used a Samsung wall charger. No luck.

Oops guys. MZ-E10. Not MDS-E10. Note to OP,.... the E10 is one of the few completely unrepairable units at least according to Jim.

I've said this a hundred times if I've said it once: we don't have any Vaio expertise here. This forum is historically about digital music. Sounds like a filter problem to me. Read up on driver filters, and delete the lower and upper filters for your dvd/cd drive. An odd thought: is this something to do with region? Shouldn't matter for data. If this machine was intended for somewhere other than North America....... Welcome; but I don't think people here can help you. Sorry.

huh? 1. Please state what you are trying to do and for what hardware 2. Please state what does happen There is an infinite number of unavailable files out there in the universe. However the ones that have drivers for NetMD are present. I just checked.

I have no clue, but one of the strange things you learn in software is that initial state is everything. I would be inclined to remove all power from everything. Especially whatever is driving the bluetooth. Another thing to try is to take the bluetooth somewhere well away from the TV and/or any wifi (they use similar frequencies and have been known to interfere, also microwave ovens). Leave it all off overnight. You may be surprised in the morning. I know there are many software issues I have done all the right steps, only to find that next day everything was right - whereas immediately afterward it looked like the whole world was ^$%^&'d. Good luck. I'm afraid this forum isn't likely to be of much help; I've never seen anything like this - but welcome!

Version of Windows 32-bit or 64-bit? Have you removed all the oem<nn>.inf? (?"huh"? I hear you say) Have you turned on hidden devices and removed all NetMD whether visible or not? Have you enabled the installation of unsigned drivers? (requires restart of W10) Not to jump down your throat or anything..... but it WILL work. When you get it right.