sfbp

Let your fingers do the walking - took me 30 seconds with google: 1. Press HOLD to put the player in hold mode. 2. Hold down LINK and press in order UP, DOWN, OPTION, UP, DOWN, RIGHT, LEFT, RIGHT, LEFT, LEFT, PLAY/PAUSE, OPTION. 3. Press HOLD to turn hold off. You will now be in test mode. 4. Press RIGHT to display menu items 5. Press UP/DOWN until you get to �OTHERS� 6. Press RIGHT to display next menu. 7. Press UP/DOWN until you get to �SP SET� 8. Press PLAY/PAUSE, �ON/OFF� is displayed. 9. Press OPTION, �ON/OFF� will be selected. 10. Press PLAY/PAUSE and it will be entered. 11. Exit play mode by pressing and holding BACK for more than a few seconds, release, and then turn the player off. https://www.avforums.com/threads/sony-nw-a1000-nw-a3000-eu-volume-limit-unlock.283760/

Sorry,. that makes no sense at all. Something that is working wasn't working before. There is no way that pushing eject would not trigger a TOC write. Conclusion: your MZ-R700 is dangerously close to being out of alignment and may fail at any time. It may even have a blown overwrite head.

Try turning it on in service mode. Usually (better read manual) this means plugging in to wall whilst holding in AMS knob. This happened to me once. Also, be sure the timer switch is set correctly (to ON). Last resort (my solution in practice) start taking it apart, disconnect and reconnect the various modules (display, disk etc). You may well frighten it into submission.

IT CANNOT BE DONE. The HiMD chip doesn't have the outputs. It doesn't need to be done, either. Simply play back the files with a nice computer (the player is little more than a fancy D-to-A) either where they sit (on the HiMD) or after they've been uploaded to the PC. There's no data conversion, therefore no data loss. If your MD data is legacy, then use one of the older decks to get S/PDIF out.

Unless you have the Japanese (domestic) version, most of the regular decks will not work with PCLK/PS2. They're all set up for keyboard only, and several of us have tried to tweak some models without success. Sorry! The decks and combinations and bookshelf units known to work with PCLK (10 or 20 doesn't matter) are: Simple decks (all versions): MDS-PC3 MDS-JE770 Deck via USB direct (no PCLK): MDS-JE780 MDS-JB980 CD-MD decks: MXD-D40 Bookshelf: CMT-PX3/5/7 (the PX3 was sold as DHC-MD595) CMT-SE9* CMT-M100MD CHC-CL5MD CMT-CP500MD Bookshelf via USB direct (no PCLK needed): CMT-M373NT/M333NT* * indicates special version of MCrew needed In addition there's a DVD bookshelf (horrible because the DVDs it plays are very restricted in many ways), and the Japanese versions of: MDS-JB940 MXD-D5C ? MDS-JE640 JBS-920/30 and most other models predate the PS/2 MCrew interface and do not support it even when there is a keyboard port (eg MDS-JE530/630). There are some other odd models that almost nobody seems to have such as MDS-DAV1 and MDS-S500 - status unknown (at least by myself). Hope this helps!

Huh? There are a couple of downloads here. On this site. What matters is: what MD unit are you connecting to?

They need to be really tight. If there is any slack, the belt has already stretched beyond what will work. Yes, it's possible the mechanism is sticking (broken tooth in the rack), but it's not nearly as likely as the belt. Another thing - there is NO WAY all three would fail with a broken tooth - it's an extreme event. Whereas all three belts going slack is EXTREMELY likely.

BELT! Item 204 on the service manual for the e10 which is all I had handy. Probably the same or similar for the E12. It's basically a rubber band. The favourite replacement is an orthdontic one which you can buy in bags of 100. Do some reading here - there are lots of posts about this for other machines. It's the single commonest source of this problem for ALL decks.

MDLP recordings (as opposed to USB transfers/rips) are cool. it's a better codec than SP. The only licensing issue (and this is not 100% clear whether it was technically deprecated or because of serious legal language with Dolby) was not storing the "raw" ATRAC data from SP on disk. Make sure you follow the steps of removing other drivers when uploading from RH1. If upload goes at full speed (about 10 minutes for a disk regardless of recording speed) then you don't have the problem, which is known to occur when heterogeneous MD unIts have been hooked to a W32 system, triggering installation of the "vampire" drivers which interfere with legacy upload on RH1.

if the entire hd got encrypted by that password, this is by design, so that new owner doesn't get private stuff from old owner if you inherited it from someone you know, ask them you can try taking out the CMOS (usually CR2032) battery and removing all mains and battery power from the machine overnight this is emphatically NOT a Vaio service forum. you need to ask this question of a trained Sony employee, sorry.

i would strongly recommmend brand new. The problem is that SonicStage frequently hangs up when you first connect a 1GB disk which has been erased. if there's nothing wrong with the player then it's fine but it can easily get into a vicious circle. Erasing it with one of the HiMD decks works, but most don't have access to one. Sonic Stage tries very hard to recover track rights even from a formatted disk. Once you have one set aside for this purpose then you can do any number of alignments. That's not much comfort.....

NetMD recordings (LP2/3/4) cannot be transferred. However MDLP recordings (from any unit, not restricted) that were NOT made via USB are bit-for-bit and there are no settings to make. Note that you will wish to decrypt everything after the upload using the File Conversion Tool. That it worked will be indicated by file extension changed from .oma to .OMA. If you don't do this, files are locked to that installation of SonicStage on that PC. SP pretty much same but in my experience there is no advantage in generating WAV files... better to go with 256k Atrac3+ (only 2 options for upload). You lose the metadata when you make wav files and it all gets v confusing trying to deal with the generated files. Ignore the stuff about "fake SP" that's in the other direction ie PC->MD. If you DO get locked out of the files, VLC ( and also ffmpeg) will work on them even with encryption. The hiMD transfer stuff was a bug in the freeware Qhimdtransfer program that they never solved, about music tracks starting somewhere other than on a FAT boundary. The VLC/ffmpeg and Sonic Stage handle it perfectly, no need to worry about getting rid of track marks. Good question, i can tell you've already read around a bit. I would NOT alter discs to be uploaded at this stage. Rather, get yourself a copy of Sound Forge and edit the uploaded files (you will have to decrypt them first). IF you have a lot of tracks it becomes wise to edit the titles before upload.. or you'll get buried in files with weird titles. One more thing. You cannot write protect a HiMD recording before upload. Legacy MD you can and should. Since a one bit error in HiMD invalidates the whole disk, be careful and don't interrupt or crash!!!!

That's exactly why I'm telling you now. By the time you've got them i should be able to help better.

Sorry I'm not at home right now or i could walk you through it mean time you will need three things: 1. A CD minidisc (prerecorded from a commercial manufacturer). Doesn't matter what music 2. A completely full nornal minidisc. The best is to record 80 minutes of anything and then (i honestly don't remember why) clone it to be a single track of LP4 (5 HRS 23 MINUTES). 3. A blank 1GB minidisc (brand new if humanly possible). I seem to recall it may also help to have an 80minute disk formatted to HiMD. This will help at some point, and you should also have a blank ordinary MD on hand. It may not be so easy if you don't have any other MD machines. Can't do much more now. There are some tricks but really you do have to align first to the CD. Also a regulated power supply (maybe you can borrow one). To keep power supplied in service mode i strongly suggest BOTH the 3V adapter AND a brand new alkaline (1.7V ie not rechargeable of any kind). RPS are expensive, usually a few hundred bucks. We can continue this in 10 days but that's all i have for now. kind regards

pretty much ffmpeg reads saved, encrypted ATRAC files and vlc plays them you can search for "Marc's hi-md renderer" too the linux-minidisc# (sorry #linux-minidisc) project did what you probably want and is dead too

So far so good. well done.

If the problem is in the remote then it's contact resistance. the way different commands are sent us by varying the resistance seen by the unit. but if it happens without remote then it could be the buttons. there is a service procedure but since normally you use buttons then you have to get into SM by soldering a bridge. it could be general powersupply adjustment. start the main adjustment (don't do the 911 reset or you might be up the creek) and stop as soon as the voltages look right. don't tweak anything you don't need to. you will need a regulated power supply for the calibration. maybe someone can lend you one....

Try alkaline battery. Poor NiMHs can easily show like this (voltage low, plus increased contact resistance).

The main problem is that UEFI needs keys ie the boot code is encrypted. You will have to become an expert on using bcdedit. I'm sorry but I'm not in a position to find the references for you as am travelling. It's very counter intuitive. Basically you have to make a new entry in the boot table and then wire the GUID of the bootable partition (which is likely not C but the "system reserved" partition created by Microsoft during installation ) to that entry in the boot table. Sorry i can't be much more help. In the old days what you did would have worked. But they wanted a mechanism to stop viruses and the like from hacking your machine. You may find that EaseUS finds and rebuilds the partition table entry for you (but it costs real $$). You'll otherwise need to run bcdedit from the repair boot djsk. Warning: it may be necessary to turn off AHCI in the BIOS to get into safe mode but turn it back on again for a regular boot. Good luck

That's likely in the case no disk is sitting in the MD unit. I deduce that Walter has an RH1.

It finally hit me (I've never had to do this). If you can measure IOP then you simply adjust until IOP reaches the value on the sticker. Writing it into NVRAM is a convenience, nothing more, for service personnel so they don't have to take out the OP to read the value off the paper. I already suggested that the values are 56.3 and 54.8. Maybe I'm wrong... Speaking utterly ex-cathedra (easy to make it up when I have no way of checking my assertion), the pot must be on the component side (!) and no, you definitely shouldn''t have to remove the board from the rest as you won't be able to do the adjust.

Joining in the chorus of "Oh no, John, no John, no John, no" the principal reason you cannot transfer from NetMD to the computer is hardware limitation. It's not fast enough since it's specced for USB 1.1 (all there was at the time). Even the hack to get it to work TO the minidisc meant they couldn't do SP transfers (too much data). So ONLY the RH1 allows the other direction. Sony was very rigid about one thing in their design and implementation - good sound quality. They never implemented anything that was unreliable. Hence the huge numbers of MD followers that believe in this format. Hi-MD came later and works fine in both directions.

Agreed - you can always play them back (optical is better than analog but you will need a "full-sized" deck rather than a portable like the MZ-N707) and capture with a PC sound card into files on your hard disk.

As the old joke goes "If I was you I wouldn't start from here, sorr". You can never transfer from NetMD to PC, EXCEPT with the MZ-RH1 (and even then only if they were not made by USB transfer in the first place). HiMD is a different story but the files need to be unencrypted (File Conversion Tool) to start with (before transfer to MD).

Yes. And the write power not so critical except that if you have it too high you will wear out the laser unit. But you can get the Iop current to within +/- 10% of the correct value by matching that output with the value written on the laser (that you entered using writeIOP). Then you may be able to do without the LPM but the read power is more fussy.