sfbp

Hello, this is a very very old system, as the codec for Minidisc is ATRAC 1. This means that very few recordings will sound good - making it a piece of mainly historical interest. For less than the cost of shipping this anywhere (never mind repairing it), you could probably buy a used machine from about 9 years later (the optimal period being around 2001-2002, your unit dates from 1993 just after the introduction of MD). You can probably find something with a USB connection built in (the CMT-M333NT or CMT-M373NT is highly recommended) or some other piece of enhanced functionality (Sony made many variations over the years). If you are a collector and feel this piece is of historical interest, we can attempt to help you. The service manual is here: https://elektrotanya.com/sony_zs-m1.pdf/download.html (warning: it's 68MB, roughly 10x the size of most later manuals - Sony had not perfected the art of manual preparation in 1993). Good luck

Well sorry to sound like I have a chip on my shoulder... but I actually took the open-source version of the minidisc access project called "QHiMdTransfer" and made it so that software would play (and transfer) from ATRAC CDs. The problem in this case was not Sony, but the fools running THAT ("linux-minidisc#") project because they told me (literally) to "fork off" (free software development speak for "make your own version of all this and support it, we want nothing to do with it - and you"). So I abandoned it. So much for co-operative development. It seems like that project never got finished, and died shortly afterwards. The one legacy is that VLC has support for (even the encrypted versions of) files laid down by Sonic Stage. But still no luck with CDs. Sony has always had a financial interest in selling digital media (DVDs, CDs, and now Bluray which is absolutely good enough for huge movie theatres). Putting a ton of songs on an "ordinary" CD was never going to make them (or anyone else) any money. The problem with the FSF open-source guys was that they went into it with a mission ("beat Sony who stop us from enjoying our own music") but didn't have the experience to know and understand all the use cases. I still use ATRAC CDs in my car, but they are simply not an archive format. End of.

You need to plug it into a power source that is not the PC. Then turn it off (remove the disk and wait). Alternatively try to run the battery down on purpose, now we've established the battery is fine. Disconnect from PC when playing (you said that it will play just fine) and let it discharge. If that fails to help, you will have to go to service mode. HOWEVER, I suspect you have a hardware problem. Do NOT nuke the NVRAM (911 option) in the device unless you know how to build it up from nothing. This most likely requires gear that most folks don't possess. The hardware problem might be: 1. failure of the VS circuitry (the USB connector) 2. microswitches 3. something else leading to the signals between PC and NetMD not working. This could even be on your PC. Have you tried another computer? Bad luck. My condolences on your loss.

Ok, this is the model that the battery is wired in? Does the machine even come on at all when disconnected from USB? I'm not clear from your description. If the answer is that "nothing happens when not connected to USB" (ie nothing on the display), you had better connect the computer end of the charger cable into a straight charger (eg Samsung phone will do). If still no action, you will have to search on here (I can look later but am busy now) and follow the directions of someone who fixed the battery replacement problem. It's not hard, but some electronics experience is required.

Question: did you try to open it when there was a disk in and it had been recording? Was it necessary to force it open even one time?

Sorry, the trip to an ATRAC CD is and always has been one-way. You can't even play them back on the PC.

You cannot. Sorry, that is exactly by design. HOWEVER, they can be played with VLC, thanks to some work done a few years ago in which I participated. Just a small question - if the disk was reformatted, how did the files survive? Maybe you and I don't mean the same thing by "reformatted"....

The remote is peculiar for two reasons: 1. It needs to communicate the control information (similar to Sony's microlink Bus in car installations) hence more pins 2. The flange also takes the strain off the 3.5mm jack. Just about every device that I've used extensively with a "raw" 3.5mm jack got busted. The Sony ones generally don't. So IMNSHO it's just good engineering. And you can STILL put a regular jack into the MD unit if you really must.

That error message is perfectly correct - and you should IGNORE it (to do so you need to dis-able driver signing enforcement for long enough to install this driver package).

Three posts up?

That one is $0.99 for 2 units.

it's actually just a stoopid piece of plastic that converts the end of an OPTICAL cable into something shaped like a 3.5mm jack. All the MDs that record can do optical OR line in (no coax, ever). Worth about threepence. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-Digital-3-5mm-Mini-TOSlink-Fiber-Optical-Digital-Audio-SPDIF-cable-Adapter/391739772419

PS you could record to optical in on the MZ

You might be surprised how good the original (free) Sony earbuds sound. They don't use up nearly as much energy and I suspect this may have a slight effect on the output amp in the recorder. However Sony's later NC headphones (such as the XBA-H3) may do quite well indeed. I have a pair of those. This is the first example I've run into where playing back with a different codec from that used to make the recording make a difference. Some expert will probably contradict me but assuming the items in the list at minidisc.org are in historical (reverse) order, then the MZ-R909 may have been the first Type-R portable. Like most software programs, backward compatible but not forward compatible (how could it be?). So trying to play something recorded using the later Codec may never equal recording using the matching codec. Thank you for this observation. You will notice you can track the ATRAC changes by the CXD26nn chip type. Stephen

R35 has the one-button "megabass" which one unlamented departee from these walls(!) used to chunter on about. Experiment, YMMV. Also I would definitely turn OFF the AVLS (microswitch slider on the bottom). What headphones are you using? Anything without gold connectors on the 3.5 mm jack will give terrible results. And you cannot expect the R35 or most of the portables to drive anything over-the-ear, IMO. You'd be better with Sony's originals. Either that or a headphone box which kinda defeats the portable aspect. I think it might be a case of impedance mismatch, rather like plugging microphone into a line in socket (hence the battery box suggestion). Also the R50 has the rep of being the top of the line aurally and mechanically. Before they went to the later more compressed codecs. A really cool piece of gear is the MZ-R5ST (sorry, that one is grossly overpriced, like 10x too much) which is a specially modified R50 with a docking station and (tada!) optical OUT, the only portable to manage this particular feat. I'm doubtful it's the codec version # - but anything is possible. Cymbals are notorious.

if you are comfortable taking it out of the chassis, I would be inclined to use some contact cleaner. But that stuff leaves a really bad smell so you don't want to do it in situ, ie. without taking it out. Whilst you've got it out, you can see what sort of a switch it is (Sony's part numbers don't convey much as to the real part, you'll have to look on the schematic) and see if it needs/is worth replacing. These AMS dial connectors (1-475-643-11, note: i looked at the contemporaneous JE630 so you will have to check) have only 4 connections. Two for signal, ground and rail. So if you can find one it might be worth doing. I'm not sure it's worth trying to buy the part, as this still doesn't tell you who made it. Don't forget it has the push function too. Hope this helps! Stephen PS if you're seriious about MD, you might want to start amassing used or broken machines as a source for parts like this.

I think you did really well as these things are really quite tricky. Ever considered a career....?

Forgive my curiosity, but how do you know what to write there? Will the cut-and-paste mechanism even work with a US English version of Windows? This sounds like a most interesting challenge...... For me an impossible one since I cannot read Japanese at all. There are definitely people around here who may be able to help you. I need also to recall their names and send you a PM.

You're probably right, the OW head laser power setting is 10x the power of the read head when reading. It is the READ headpower (ie the laser) which absolutely must be calibrated within very fine limits. Conceivably differently resistive OW heads might cause slightly different results but all in all, if it works, you're in shape. Well done! From your post which I skimmed in my usual haste, I thought you had replaced the whole laser assembly. (updated as I must have been dazed when writing that).

Wait a second... you plugged in the NetMD and it said "ok", but no disk. Did you put a disk IN the aforesaid NetMD? All bets are off unless the medium is actually present....

There's a download of the Japanese successor to SS, which Avrin managed to get some updated modules from when he assembled the version we have here (don't ask me, that's completely beyond what I know how to do). I did download it (you can search for X-App) a long time ago, but as I don't read Japanese it didn't make a lot of sense and I have no idea what I did with the pieces. I didn't realise you are Japanese, sorry. You might have more luck in a forum over there. good luck!

OK, that's good, you verified that the switch works. Next I'd be inclined to force a reinitialization (like what happens after you've serviced the drive). Ah.... I know, you replaced the head but you didn't align the drive yet. It's not automatic. You're going to need some gear. If you don't adjust the laser power for that laser, you will blow it (literally). Just as well it's smart enough to know it needs servicing. Time to get the service manual . https://elektrotanya.com/sony_mds-j3000_mds-j3000es.pdf/download.html There isn't one here or at minidisc.org. They're all the same in outline, only the details. When you're ready to move, please keep asking....

I think the two switches are: "present" and "protect". It's normal for one to be shorter, I don't recall which is which. You can tell which is the write protect by looking at the location of the protect slider on a writeable disk. It's just possible there's a sense for CD vs MO (the precorded disks), I am not able to look right now so relying on my memory. There's a THIRD sensor hole on 1GB Hi-MD disks to allow the HiMD units to detect that medium. There's an interlock mechanism on portables, but I don't think you have to worry about that on a deck. If you are not that famliar with MD, perhaps you didn't know about the write protect setting on each MD disk. OPEN means protected, CLOSED means writeable. Keep the questions coming, I have a hunch this is solvable easily.

I don't understand why you have to use Japanese at all.

If it plays ok, the problem is certainly with the write-protect mechanism, which is mechanical, and relies on the detection of the gap in the MD case. You will have to make sure that the closure of the microswitch does its job in the circuit. Sorry I cannot be more specific than that but you'll need some electronics experience with voltmeter and/or soldering iron, most likely.