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  1. Windows 10 installation (Net MD): 1) Download the files in description 2) Double click on "SS43_Ultimate.exe" and install the "SonicStage" program. 3) Go to Program Files (x86) -> Sony -> Personal Audio Drivers -> Sort by type -> Highlight all the ".inf" files, right click on one of them and hit install. 4) Unzip the second attached file "sony-net-md-drivers-win764.zip" and open up the folder "Sony Net MD Drivers". 5) Right click "NETMD760.inf" and hit install. 6) Go to Program Files (x86) -> Sony -> SonicStage-> Right click on "Omgjbox.exe -> Click on Compatibility -> Under the Compatibility tab, click the box and select "Windows XP (Service Pack 3)" Launch SonicStage, plug in your Walkman and a "NET MD" tab should show up in Sonic Stage. If the "NET MD" tab does not show up for you, then you need to find the correct driver for the individual Microdisc player You may receive an error when starting it, just click "next" and agree" and open it up a 2nd time without problems. Learning how to use SonicStage is very easy. SS43_ULTIMATE.exe sony-net-md-drivers-win764.zip
    9 points
  2. Since the "Ultimate" 4.3 version seems to have gained quite a popularity, and appears to be less glitchy than any previous one, I decided to build a second release. This is purely a cosmetic update. What's changed from the first release: 1. Updated Registry Information Setup is used now. This doesn't affect minidisc functionality in any way, but may add support for some newer ATRAC phones (you still need to provide the respective drivers). 2. The link to Minidisc Community Forums in the Help menu is replaced with a link to Sony Insider Forums. 3. Installation package extraction path is no longer saved to registry. 4. Windows Installer 2.0 distribution package is not included. The complete list of changes from the official VAIO version (including changes introduced in the first release): 1. System prerequisites from Microsoft (Windows Installer 2.0, DirectX 9.0c, Windows Media Format 9, Windows Media Format 9.5, Data Access Components 2.5) are not included. 2. OpenMG Secure Module version 5.0 with the respective Registry Information is used instead of the original patched version 4.7. 3. Sony CONNECT Store support is no longer installed. 4. SonicStage Security Update is installed automatically. 5. Latest Personal Audio Drivers for SONY devices are installed automatically. 6. The VAIO support link in the Help menu is replaced with a link to Sony Insider Forums. NOTE: If you have applied the experimental SonicStage patch 4.3.02 for Vista/Windows 7, you'll need to re-apply it after installation. Download links: SonicStage 4.3 "Ultimate" Release 2 for Windows 2000/XP/Vista (you must register at Sony Insider forums to download) Mini-mode skins Recommended PxEngine update
    6 points
  3. Hello everyone! I'm new to this forum, and let me say that I love to see the love and conversation about MiniDisc keep going on I'm popping in just to let you know that I've recently released an app for NetMD devices. I wrote the app mainly for myself, but I thought it might be useful for some of you too! So, and here's the link to use it -> https://stefano.brilli.me/webminidisc/ And here's a short demo of how app works Any feedback is welcome! Stefano
    5 points
  4. As promised in one of my previous posts, here is the trailer for 'The Field Recordist' which features some of the mini disc recorders, together with recorded tracks: UPDATED - HERE IS THE COMPLETE FILM: Best heard with headphones.
    4 points
  5. Hello! Just thought I'll report it here, if you're trying to create an account without a connection with an already existing account like Google or alike, it's simply impossible to do so, because of incorrectly loaded reCaptcha. To make this account I had to rewrite the part of the site responsible for the captcha. If anyone else is experiencing the same difficulties, here are the steps I used to create my account: Go to https://forums.sonyinsider.com/register/ In devtools, open the `head` tag and remove all the scripts that mention recaptcha Add a new script, with `src="https://www.google.com/recaptcha/api.js"` Execute the following JavaScript code: const captcha = document.querySelector("[data-ipscaptcha]"); const parent = captcha.parentElement; captcha.remove(); const newCaptcha = document.createElement("div"); parent.appendChild(newCaptcha); grecaptcha.ready(() => grecaptcha.render(newCaptcha, {sitekey: "6LdgERMTAAAAAC4kTmm7BH1laShX3teATAV_6FIY"})); After that, you should be able to click on the captcha and create your account by executing the following JS code (the submit button is broken): document.querySelector("form").submit();
    3 points
  6. Finally, my homebrew laser power meter is put together. It cost $3 worth of surface mount components, a used disc sacrificed for the shell, a piece of pcb, and some other stuff I found in the back of my drawer. Initially I tested it with my digital multimeter hooked on those test terminals, but then I found this neat little five-digit Volt-meter I bought some time ago on ebay, I think it was five bucks or so with free shipping from China. Without much fine tuning, I popped this little probe into all the decks I had at hand, and measured the laser power. From the mV readings and the nominal laser power values I calculated the mV-to-mW multipliers, and I took the average of a unit I trusted the most, a 940. Using this sole multiplier as the "calibration", I recalculated the measured mW figures and compared to the factory recommended range. Most of the other units were nicely within specification, but this 530 in question, that immediately popped out, being near 40% below the necessary values, i.e., 0,55 mW and 4,32 mW versus 0,9 mW and 7,0 mW respectively. Now, it might be that easy, but before changing anything, I want to check the IOP, to see, whether that meets the specs, and set the measured value for further adjustments. For this I will need that rig connecting to the drive, currently waiting for the special connector to arrive. So much for now, I will update the thread as I progress. Some photos attached below, just for fun.
    3 points
  7. I received a similar, albeit slightly smaller, mix of boxed and unboxed discs today too 🙂
    2 points
  8. Which sort of cases are you after? You used to be able to buy the basic hinged jewel cases from Amazon but I've not seen them on there for a few years now: If you're UK based Retro Style Media sell them: https://www.retrostylemedia.co.uk/product/clear-minidisc-case Price per case varies depending on how many you buy. Note that the quoted price is ex VAT so you'll need to factor that in as well. They also sell the larger cases that pre-recorded discs used to come in back in the 90s: They come in a variety of colours but are a lot more expensive. You can find them here: https://www.retrostylemedia.co.uk/shop/minidisc-cases That website also has templates to download for the inserts etc. There's a bit more info (and a video) here:
    2 points
  9. Don't worry about it - I got myself a Sony LAM for testing and ended up falling in love with the whole LAM series of devices. I have 3 now, so I use that functionality regularly 😆
    2 points
  10. Over the past couple of months, I've been bitten by the MD bug again. I hadn't visited this forum in a VERY long time. I've used one of my MZ-NH900s at my work desk on almost a daily basis for 10+ years. It sits it's original cradle, powered from the AC adapter because the battery long since gave up the ghost. I have about 20 disc's (a mix of Hi-MD and standard MD My other NH900 has been broken for years after it fell out of my pocket and a disc got jammed. Was able to get the disc out by disassembling the recorder but when I all went back together the buttons were no longer responsive... So I put it in a storage box with my other MD stuff that wasn't used anymore. FF 1month ago, I was digging thru some things and came across my box MD recorders. Pulled out the NH900 and took it apart again. Long story short, it's had been returned to service! While looking for info on repair, I came across this site and an intro to Reddit MD. My interest stoked again, burned some new disc's, reorganized some of my favorites, and am trying my hand at labeling. I've also managed to buy a couple of new Hi-MD blanks and some used standard MDs. It's always fun to go thru used disc's from someone else to see what's on them 🙂 My MD arsenal consists of: MZ-R500, MZ-N707 (eprom nodded), MZ-N920, IM-DR420, MZ-NH600D, 2-MZ-NH900s, 2-MZ-RH10s (both with bad displays), and a MZ-RH910. 150ish standard MDs and 15 Hi-MDs. Most of my standard disc's are Hi-MD formated and most of the music is burned in ATRAC3plus @256k. I simply LOVE this format!
    2 points
  11. Nice to see SIF back up. Why was it down? It was quite a long time. I think many people have given up on it. That http://www.minidisc.wiki has turned out pretty nice btw. Still has a ways to go, but it has data on some devices not found anywhere else in English.
    2 points
  12. I don't have a question, just wanted to post a brief "ode" to my Sony MZ-R90 which I got, unexpectedly, as a birthday present in 2000. It transformed portable audio for me, but six short months later, my MZ-R90 was stolen by an opportunistic thief. Not long after that, I moved on to MP3 players, but just recently I have been reminiscing wistfully about that beautiful little piece of music technology. I had the black version, and I think the industrial design is really magnificent.
    2 points
  13. Back in 1997, long before MP3 was anything more than a concept, I was serving in the Air Force and frequently deployed overseas. Some guys on the squadron introduced me to a strange format for making music portable. MiniDisc. I soon got to learn that those tough little discs survived the rough-and-tumble of life in a kit-bag. We each bought portable players, and would ‘pool’ our discs together to make little music libraries, would trade discs with one another, and would copy CD’s for one another back home. No matter where we were in the world, AA batteries were easy to obtain, and just a handful of batteries would literally last weeks. It was a pocket-sized bit of luxury that we could carry with us, and I loved it. ......then, along came MP3 players and the ubiquitous ‘iPod’. Suddenly we could carry all of our music in a small space, and it seemed that the MiniDisc was dead. Within about 3 years everyone I knew had ditched the format and were literally giving away their discs and players, as were oil-rig workers, fishermen, and other locals who worked away from home for extended periods. I too, confined my MiniDisc collection to a box in the loft, and bought an iPod Classic. Fast-forward to 2005, and I deployed for a 4-month tour to Iraq. My iPod came with me, and I had the small luxury of my music collection to fall back on, OR SO I THOUGHT. By the second week I had the sickening ‘Sync Reset’ display (which of course was impossible without my PC) and in one fell swoop I lost my music. Other guys had problems with the portable power-generators cooking their wall-plug chargers, and soon quite a few of us had lost the use of our players, just when we would have appreciated them the most! Back home, and I was quickly falling out of love with my iPod. It seemed that whenever I updated my collection there would be issues with mixed/missing title-tracks and artwork. Any albums entitled ‘Greatest Hits’ would become an amalgamated mess, and whilst the battery-life seemed to get ever shorter, the demands for a ‘sync reset’ increased. The love was fading. I noticed something else, too. My listening habits were changing. My seemingly endless access to music made me a lazy listener, and I would frequently jump from album to album, track to track, and would often skip mid-way through a track. My days of listening to an album the way that the artist intended, had gone. This wasn’t music enjoyment. ....and so, by 2008 I was back to my MiniDisc, and what I revival it was! Equipment that had previously been prohibitively expensive was now dirt-cheap, and I was living the hobby like a millionaire! I soon had units for every occasion with Sony JA20ES and JA50ES decks for hifi use, numerous portable players, and a Pioneer MEH P9000 head-unit for the car. I could afford to be extravagant with discs, and my well used dozen or so swelled up to over 1,000. That was 10 years ago, and nothing much since then has changed. I still indulge in the childhood enjoyment of putting a ‘mixtape’ together in real-time, copying music from my CD’s and vinyl to Type-R SP to listen to in the car, or out walking the dog. Because space is at a premium my playlists are more carefully considered, and I listen to each track in full. My listening-habits are back to where they should be. In 20 years I can count on one hand the number of corrupted discs I’ve suffered, only ever having to re-copy one album. I keep discs and a spare player at work, in the summerhouse and in the car, and I have a physical, tangible connection with my music collection again. MiniDisc as a commercial format is dead, and I’m OK with that. It continues to live on in my household, and probably will do for years to come, maybe even for another decade or more. I continue to love the ‘forgotten format’, and those robust little discs give me everything I need.
    2 points
  14. Hi Folks, Long time no post, busy with child rearing. :-) I do stop by to read up on new posts and topics. I ran across this video on YouTube yesterday, sorry to post if everyone has already seen it but it was good to see and I wanted to share with all. Cheers!
    2 points
  15. It is currently admitted that the MZ-RH1 has the best DAC, ergo the best sound. I prefer however the sound of QS and ES Sony decks.
    2 points
  16. Hi all! So I've started a little project for myself. Minidisc never really caught on too well in canada so I won't be stmbling on any racks at the thrift shop anytime soon. I've been looking for storage solutions, haven't been a big fan of the wine box idea, generally I haven't seen anything that really caught my eye. For some reason it never dawned on me in the last year to 3D print some racks... I'm not sure why, I've been 3D printing everything else for years.... So I designed these up yesterday with some spare time. They're very rough still and very utilitarian. The larger one holds 10 discs and is meant to stack vertically (and has holes for nesting feet, and holes for screws). The smaller one to the right I haven't tested yet but I am thinking of a wall unit that makes the discs look like they are floating out of the wall. Edit wise I'm going to shrink the width by 2mm and perhaps put the discs at a slight downard angle rather than 90 degree so that if they were on an uneven surface, they'd still stay in the rack. What do you guys think? Feel free to toss any ideas my way! (also, for curiosity sake, the larger one took 8 hours to print! 3d printing is pretty cool but it's still a very slow process.) (The render) and printed
    2 points
  17. I got the drivers installed on my computer. I recommend watching this youtube video thats how i did it.
    2 points
  18. In case anyone is interested... I´ve written a review of the Sony MZ-R 50. http://marlene-d.blogspot.de/2013/07/the-legendary-sony-mz-r-50-review.html
    2 points
  19. I just wanted to say that it is nice to have some new members who are clearly MD lovers around to join in on the discussion and add new thoughts, ideas and opinions. Welcome all. :-)
    2 points
  20. Buy LIP-4 battery. First open all the cover of LIP-4. then you can small PCB. just remove the PCB using soldering iron or else. Do the same things with LIP-3 batteries. take the small PCB from LIP-3 and put to LIP-4 battery cell use soldering iron. Then cover you new battery, make sure it won't have electronics shortcuts. You'll have a new long lasting battery. It works on my MZ-N10.
    2 points
  21. I have a Sony MDS-JE780 for sale. It is silver and in mint condition as it has been hardly used. It is based in Wolverhampton so can be collected, or can be posted at additional cost. (I estimate about £7 with recorded delivery) £80 ono. Spec taken from the Sony website: Hybrid Pulse D/A Converter ATRAC DSP Type-S Long Time Recording and Playback (LP2, LP4) Pitch Control Scale Factor Edit NetMD Control A1 Keyboard Terminal 1 x Optical & 1 x Coaxial Input & 1 x Optical Output Available inblack and silverSee the link for more info.... http://www.sony.co.u...=TechnicalSpecs
    2 points
  22. MiniDisc is not useless; it's obsolete. There is a key difference. Nothing as multifaceted as a MiniDisc recorder can be said to be useless. That said, I think that even if Sony had marketed MiniDisc successfully, it would be obsolescent today because its competitors are more feature-rich. I have difficulty following some of the logic in this thread. MiniDisc and MP3 players both have shuffle functions. It's up to the user whether or not to use them, and absolutely nothing about an MP3 player compels one to do so. It SHOULD go without saying that either is just as capable of playing entire albums chronologically. You're arguing against your perceptions of MP3 users' supposed preferences, which are likely exaggerated and unfounded. The issue was the native functionality of the devices and which better suited the questioner. I still have my MiniDisc players, though I almost exclusively use my MP3 player (and never on shuffle). I may be returning to reporting soon and thus would use my MiniDisc to record, even though my MP3 player has a voice recorder. I also take out MiniDisc sometimes just for nostalgia. Whereas many of you are exalting album listening, I actually got into MiniDisc because it facilitated playlists, but now MP3 players do this better because the track need not be re-uploaded to form the playlist. Album listening has its advantages and purposes, but playlists demonstrate the user's creativity and make for great time travel. In my moments of nostalgia, I can call up playlists of the songs that defined eras I miss. It's a beautiful thing. One of you said you found MP3 players useless because they could not do all the things a MiniDisc player could. That depends on the MP3 player. (Further, it's a bogus statement because any mass storage device that plays music clearly has a twofold desirable purpose.) I actually can edit titles and move files on the go, but let's be honest: It is rare that such an act is of such pressing import that it can't wait until one gets home. My MP3 player is an Archos 5, which, like many MP3 players, has great sound quality, radio, a 250-gigabyte hard drive, a voice recorder, Wi-FI, Web radio and TV, DVR, picture display, and video. Useless because it's an MP3 player? Oh, brother. Much of this stems from your zeal to vindicate the MiniDisc, which I love. Another example is the citation of an intangible such as "cool factor," which lies in the eye of the beholder. Consider that being in the in-crowd like an Apple user can be said to be cool. Also, cool as in different just means anything opposed to the leading product, and that doesn't necessarily mean a MiniDisc. A lesser-known MP3 player can turn heads, but turning heads is not where the joy in product use lies. It is also flawed logic to assert that one likes MiniDisc because one prefers to carry around just a few albums. One can choose to listen to just a few on an MP3 player, first of all. The mere presence of all the other tracks you have neatly stored on the hard drive will not weigh heavily on the mind. Second, both MP3 players and MiniDiscs are mass storage devices. That's like one compulsive overeater defaming another because the other is even worse. That does not make you the icon of restraint; rather, you prefer a lesser example of excess. I do believe there still are real advantages to MiniDisc that relate to its native functionality. It's durable, sounds great, and records. It edges out MP3 in battery life, line-in recording, and usually voice recording. Actually, recording is where its greatest strength is now. Another strength is that different models are tailored to different uses; some have radio, some record and others have a digital amplifier, for instance. I love that my MP3 player works with Windows Media Player, which keeps track of the tracks you have and have not added to the device. Syncing automatically adds the new tracks. If I went back to MinDisc, I'd have to guess where I left off as I tried to upload all the music I have purchased since then to MiniDiscs. Also, I don't have to be bothered with SonicStage or ATRAC anymore, and I am glad. I don't have a second-generation Hi-MD player, so I can't put MP3s on them.
    2 points
  23. I have an N510 and a DN430. Both sound really good. I also have some S1's which, I know, are type R. They both sound excellent to me. I figured I'd take the (possible) slight noise quality hit and lack of remote for bombproof (especially in Orygun) performance of the S1. I can say those DN430's sound just fine. I think you can find that model with a radio too
    2 points
  24. Tesa cloth tape (fabric tape), Tesa 51026 for example. Or any similar, from other brands.
    1 point
  25. You're trying to record an MD? Then the cable needs to go into Opt. In. of the deck.
    1 point
  26. As far as getting sonic stage to work again it is possible. Many people have gotten it to work on Windows 7 and 10 (not me, ha!) But I had success reviving my abilities to transfer music by using an older XP laptop...
    1 point
  27. The output from the headphone jack is analog(ue) so a DAC (Digital to Analogue converter) wouldn't convert the signal, even if it accepted an analogue (line level) input, which most don't I think. It would be best in this case to use a headphone amplifier which would connect with a simple stereo line lead: 3.5mm to 3.5 / 5mm depending on the headphone amp input.
    1 point
  28. I didn't check those places actually. While I've had my minidisc players for a while, I'm new to searching for anything on them on the internet. I only just decided to start searching the other day when I stumbled upon this forum. I just looked in both those places, and did manage to find a service manual for my SJ-MJ55 which will come in handy. Nothing on the slightly newer models, but that's ok, I'm still way further ahead with these other two service manuals. I've fixed both my SJ-MR100 players now, my other player wouldn't record, but that service manual gave me a helpful hint and I was able to get it both playing and recording like new.
    1 point
  29. Don't know if this helps - found a copy in my archives.....
    1 point
  30. Sounds a bit long. It is not a problem from resistance point of view, however, long cables can pick up electromagnetic noise, like an aerial. What you can do though is to fold the cable in Z or Omega shape, making sure the folded parts cover each other precisely - in other words, wires won't get over a neighbouring one, to avoid interference. And no need for very sharp edges, to avoid cracks. In your case keeping the 125 mm distance beetween the two ends you first make a fold at ~100mm, then at ~75mm from the first one, making the Z. In the middle you will have triple layers, consuming about 225mm of the length, plus ~25-25mm-s at the ends Once this is done, you may want to tie it together with a piece of adhesive tape.
    1 point
  31. have you looked at the manual troubler shooter? while waiting for some one to reply? or even contact sony? http://pdf.crse.com/manuals/4233759133.pdf I see there is a reset command on page 50 cant post it here as goes all messy
    1 point
  32. Please contact jonathanpotato, he can help you I think http://www.jonathandupre.fr
    1 point
  33. I tried the HQRP gumstick batteries and I never had any luck with them. They all had high self discharge characteristics and developed high internal resistance pretty quickly. The only NH-14WM replacement I've used that wasn't high self discharge is the Sofirn 3000mah battery from China. Don't let the name fool you , it's no where near 3000mah. Its like 1200mah but will hold a charge. The Sofirn battery is all white in color and its still going after a year now. It's not as good as the original Sony pr Sharp gumsticks were but way better than any HQRP I've ever tried.
    1 point
  34. Yes, it is true as AVITWeb says; there is an option in the 'transfer settings' to instruct SS to delete the converted files after transfer. However, i'ts still always a good practice to take a look in that default folder or follow that file path because, in my experience, the deletion doesn't always happen --- for reasons that remain a mystery to me. {I guess computer programs sometime ignore instructions and do want they want to do just to defy the humans.} Don't forget about clearing your Recycle Bin either, if you do have to perform a manual deletion. My two cents. Happy Transferring, -ja
    1 point
  35. I want to add to something about the tangible point. I don't like the invisible - I like to interact with my music - which is why I don't really have any music stored as mp3s - rather just CDs and vinyl. But ironically for me it doesn't just mean physical - as peculiar a concept I think of duration and the time spent in the moment as a tangible concept as well. You hear a lot these days about the lost art of the mix tape. I had a discussion about it with my significant other last night, as I heard yesterday Billy Joe Armstrong (Green Day) recently bought a cassette recorder to return to the format. I suggested that making a mix tape meant more because it took 90 mins to make. That it wasn't just about the song choice, but those 3.5 mins it takes to record each song. During those moments, you're both thinking about the next song, but also imagining how the recipient will feel when listening to it - there's so much more time to get wrapped up in all the emotions that go with a mix tape. Obviously the words tape and minidisc are interchangeable here - if they're both being made in real-time. She argued, rightly so, that you can replicate that experience with playlists - e.g. on Spotify or in iTunes - and that it doesn't just have to be a silent experience of dragging song titles into a playlist without listening. Whilst it's inarguable, I just never find myself doing that. It's funny, when i had my R30, I was the only person I knew who had one. I made mix tapes for people, but I'd actually "master" them on the R30 - much easier to reorganise after the fact before committing to tape. Tape does get a bad rap though. Obviously not up to the standard of MD, but a good deck with a good tape could reach pretty great heights.
    1 point
  36. "Said the (bad)actress to the bishop" It is heartening to see I am not the only crazy person to still be listening to digital audio files via MD. We "crazies" have gotta stick together.
    1 point
  37. Did you ever find these? I have a whole box of a bunch of MD stuff getting rid of and recall seeing various cases in there. Good chance I have what you are looking for.
    1 point
  38. 2012 may not be the best time to start collecting minidiscs (about a decade too late) but over the past year I've become hooked. Even though I bought my first MD recorder back in the late 90's I've had a long hiatus and never knew so many discs were made. Ebay has served me well over the last year but I'm getting to a stage where certain discs just aren't coming up. I've even contacted a couple of Japanese sellers who say discs are pretty scarce there too. I've seen still a few things of interest on Amazon.co.jp (although rare portable recorders/players are listed at extortionate prices), sellers here don't ship outside of Japan. So I thought I would post a topic here to see if anyone wants to sell me any of the discs listed below that they have extra of or no longer want. The discs do NOT have to be still in their original packaging but I would prefer them without any labels been stuck on the discs. So the list: AXIA: "Select Your Style" - Green one with 3 lampshades: https://picasaweb.go...153527558569602 IDEMITSU: Any - https://picasaweb.go...hannel/Idemitsu MEMOREX: "Memorex SG" - Any colour: https://picasaweb.go...987264293260146 SAEHAN: "Windplayer" - Any colour: https://picasaweb.go...566798349386482 TDK: "Bitclub" - Yellow/White stripes: https://picasaweb.go...654463864314642 "Bitclub" - Black Triangles: https://picasaweb.go...654468159281954 "Bitclub" - US Maps: https://picasaweb.go...654429504576226 "Bitclub" - Book: https://picasaweb.go...345865745722738 "Bitclub" - Circles: https://picasaweb.go...345865745722738 "Bitclub" - Bubbles: https://picasaweb.go...345892593812146 "Bitclub" - House: https://picasaweb.go...345989694446114 "Bitclub" - Runner: https://picasaweb.go...346016983116610 TOPVALU: https://picasaweb.go...nel/TopvaluAeon VICTOR: "Fruity Colors" - Any or 5pk: https://picasaweb.go...780324778361490 "AR 2004" - Any or 5/10pk: https://picasaweb.go...609478376851730 "X(Kai)" - 80m or 74m: https://picasaweb.go...305044035477570 "D-Cruise" - Red or Blue: https://picasaweb.go...304369725612066 "Luna Sea" - https://picasaweb.go...609602930903602 Lastly, I'm also after the Victor/JVC XM-C31 player (preferably in pink or blue). If you have any of these that you are willing to sell, please PM me. If I've used your website to reference these discs - thanks (and I'm jealous!) Many thanks, Z.
    1 point
  39. Why is this? Minidisc wont be around forever and we will need a viable flash player to move on to. I have tried giving up on minidisc several times and always end up coming back because even the Sony flash mp3/m4a players never sound as good as hi-md. Maybe its because md was designed solely around "sound" whereas all the new mp3 players have colour screens, wifi, video playback etc. I would prefer to pay $500 on audio only as my phone does everything else I need. I have tried several of the A series walkmans, several phones (galaxy s2, galaxy note) and even the ICD-SX813 but nothing is as good as a real-time recording on my rh1 via optical. I would save sooo much time and effort if i could get the same quality of an optical hi-sp recording with a flash based player using my PC to covert to m4a/mp3. Frustrating!
    1 point
  40. Hello. read all of my posts There's a problem with big lists, because u need to use search function that is available only in folder mode. Also NAC-HD1E hasn't enough memory to operate if the artist/album list is very big, many records in database that also freezes. Now I'm working to solve this problem by changing upgrading modifying and reprogramming all system.
    1 point
  41. With the extra info I tend to agree with Stephen. If you can record ok and replay on another unit, most likely there's nothing wrong with the motors. It does sound like the play on MO discs laser power needs adjustment. I take it play on CD-type factory recorded discs is ok, assuming you have one of these? Jim
    1 point
  42. - one MZ-R55 from Holland - one MZ-N710 from France - one MZ-NH700 from UK - two deck remotes - maybe my JA555ES repaired this time Perhaps more !
    1 point
  43. Hi guys, as some of you guys may have already heard, this year's Google Summer of Code has begun as of today and we're participating through VideoLAN (the makers of VLC) who were so kind to assign one of their students to us to work on the NetMD code. The other student is working on finalizing support for ATRAC3+ for VLC/ffmpeg including a generic OMA decryptor which will allow ALL ATRAC/PCM files saved in the oma format be decrypted and played back by VLC/ffmpeg. A very first status update has just been posted by this student on the mailing list "vlc-devel" and can be found here: http://mailman.videolan.org/pipermail/vlc-devel/2011-May/080430.html The general timeline for GSoC can be found here: http://www.google-melange.com/document/show/gsoc_program/google/gsoc2011/timeline I will keep you updated, Adrian
    1 point
  44. Msteein, I have both the AT 822 and just picked up the AT 8022 this week to compare. They are both excellent stereo condenser mikes. I have gotten many great sounding recordings from my 822 both in my studio and in field settings like jazz clubs or in one instance on a subway platform. Audio Technia is no longer making the 822 but, it can still be found pretty easily with a Google search. That said, the 8022 is considered the alternative to the 822. Both mikes come with two sets of cords, one set with left and right quarter inch plugs for use with a mixer or other professional level equipment and another cord that terminates to an eighth inch stereo plug for going directly into the mike input of a minidisc recorder or such. I am finding that for the same price as the 822, at B&H anyway, the 8022 is in fact an even better sounding mike. wider dynamic range, less flat sounding...brighter and wider sounding. I would actually like to sell one of my 822s (I have two) and get a second 8022. In another topic on the forum called Live Recording I posted a link to some A/B comparison recordings between the 822 and a Sony mike called an ECM-MS957, a very expensive and awful sounding mike. The thread is called Live Recording Using MD and Transferring To CD by Samantha D. I'm pretty sure my links are still active. I'll try to upload and post a link for an A/B comparison between the AT822 and the AT8022 and that mike that comes with the M200, that DS70P. The difference will amaze you. I sympathize about the cost of a high quality microphone but, having a high quality digital recorder for mike recording is pointless unless you have a really good mike. That is the first link in creating the signal that will be recorded. And remember that all live recordings start as an analog signal. If your mike is low quality, the results on you high tech recorder will be disappointing. The DS70P is really best suited for recording speaking, not music. I'll try to get that link set up soon for you. Best, -J
    1 point
  45. You got it in one. The difference between 1a/b and 2 is that 2 is NOT from the receiver TO the TV. Actually now I think about it there's probably a setting to let the receiver use the TV's speakers (via HDMI), but you'll never get surround sound.
    1 point
  46. Is there a reason you are transfering tracks in SP mode? You are aware that SP mode when transfering over Netmd is actually 'fake' sp, in that it is the EXACT same bitrate as LP2, just wrapped with some coding that makes the files playable on a minidisc player/recorder without LP2/LP4 playback capability>?
    1 point
  47. Due to the nature of my work I cannot go into details. What I can say is when you overdraw the USB bus strange things can happen like uninitiated reboots or lockups. In extreme cases I have seen motherboard USB headers burned, motherboard traces burned. Small fires started by overdrawing current from the USB bus. Think about it. Most every item that has some sort of USB cradle has a seperate AC charger that plugs into the base of the charger. Why? Because in most cases the USB bus is not capable of providing the current necessary to charge modern day devices. There are items that can charge via USB like cell phones but the current draw is minimal. Most devices that don't have an AC charger connected to the base do not charge the device. Some devices that come immediately to mind are PDA's. The USB dock always has a seperate AC charger. There are MD units that cannot be charged via USB even though they have a USB dock. I have to take back my comment that it "can't" be done. Maybe I should reword it to say "Be very very careful!" As long as you fall within the USB specs for current draw you should be okay. National Semiconductor has an interesting article that is relevant to this discussion. It pertains to Li-Ion charging but maybe some knowledge can be gained from looking at the schematic they have for the charger they propose: http://www.national.com/appbriefs/files/AppBrief101.pdf
    1 point
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