Leaderboard

Windows 10 installation (Net MD): 1) Download the files in description 2) Double click on "SS43_Ultimate.exe" and install the "SonicStage" program. 3) Go to Program Files (x86) -> Sony -> Personal Audio Drivers -> Sort by type -> Highlight all the ".inf" files, right click on one of them and hit install. 4) Unzip the second attached file "sony-net-md-drivers-win764.zip" and open up the folder "Sony Net MD Drivers". 5) Right click "NETMD760.inf" and hit install. 6) Go to Program Files (x86) -> Sony -> SonicStage-> Right click on "Omgjbox.exe -> Click on Compatibility -> Under the Compatibility tab, click the box and select "Windows XP (Service Pack 3)" Launch SonicStage, plug in your Walkman and a "NET MD" tab should show up in Sonic Stage. If the "NET MD" tab does not show up for you, then you need to find the correct driver for the individual Microdisc player You may receive an error when starting it, just click "next" and agree" and open it up a 2nd time without problems. Learning how to use SonicStage is very easy. SS43_ULTIMATE.exe sony-net-md-drivers-win764.zip

Since the "Ultimate" 4.3 version seems to have gained quite a popularity, and appears to be less glitchy than any previous one, I decided to build a second release. This is purely a cosmetic update. What's changed from the first release: 1. Updated Registry Information Setup is used now. This doesn't affect minidisc functionality in any way, but may add support for some newer ATRAC phones (you still need to provide the respective drivers). 2. The link to Minidisc Community Forums in the Help menu is replaced with a link to Sony Insider Forums. 3. Installation package extraction path is no longer saved to registry. 4. Windows Installer 2.0 distribution package is not included. The complete list of changes from the official VAIO version (including changes introduced in the first release): 1. System prerequisites from Microsoft (Windows Installer 2.0, DirectX 9.0c, Windows Media Format 9, Windows Media Format 9.5, Data Access Components 2.5) are not included. 2. OpenMG Secure Module version 5.0 with the respective Registry Information is used instead of the original patched version 4.7. 3. Sony CONNECT Store support is no longer installed. 4. SonicStage Security Update is installed automatically. 5. Latest Personal Audio Drivers for SONY devices are installed automatically. 6. The VAIO support link in the Help menu is replaced with a link to Sony Insider Forums. NOTE: If you have applied the experimental SonicStage patch 4.3.02 for Vista/Windows 7, you'll need to re-apply it after installation. Download links: SonicStage 4.3 "Ultimate" Release 2 for Windows 2000/XP/Vista (you must register at Sony Insider forums to download) Mini-mode skins Recommended PxEngine update

Hello everyone! I'm new to this forum, and let me say that I love to see the love and conversation about MiniDisc keep going on I'm popping in just to let you know that I've recently released an app for NetMD devices. I wrote the app mainly for myself, but I thought it might be useful for some of you too! So, and here's the link to use it -> https://stefano.brilli.me/webminidisc/ And here's a short demo of how app works Any feedback is welcome! Stefano

As promised in one of my previous posts, here is the trailer for 'The Field Recordist' which features some of the mini disc recorders, together with recorded tracks: UPDATED - HERE IS THE COMPLETE FILM: Best heard with headphones.

Hello! Just thought I'll report it here, if you're trying to create an account without a connection with an already existing account like Google or alike, it's simply impossible to do so, because of incorrectly loaded reCaptcha. To make this account I had to rewrite the part of the site responsible for the captcha. If anyone else is experiencing the same difficulties, here are the steps I used to create my account: Go to https://forums.sonyinsider.com/register/ In devtools, open the `head` tag and remove all the scripts that mention recaptcha Add a new script, with `src="https://www.google.com/recaptcha/api.js"` Execute the following JavaScript code: const captcha = document.querySelector("[data-ipscaptcha]"); const parent = captcha.parentElement; captcha.remove(); const newCaptcha = document.createElement("div"); parent.appendChild(newCaptcha); grecaptcha.ready(() => grecaptcha.render(newCaptcha, {sitekey: "6LdgERMTAAAAAC4kTmm7BH1laShX3teATAV_6FIY"})); After that, you should be able to click on the captcha and create your account by executing the following JS code (the submit button is broken): document.querySelector("form").submit();

Finally, my homebrew laser power meter is put together. It cost $3 worth of surface mount components, a used disc sacrificed for the shell, a piece of pcb, and some other stuff I found in the back of my drawer. Initially I tested it with my digital multimeter hooked on those test terminals, but then I found this neat little five-digit Volt-meter I bought some time ago on ebay, I think it was five bucks or so with free shipping from China. Without much fine tuning, I popped this little probe into all the decks I had at hand, and measured the laser power. From the mV readings and the nominal laser power values I calculated the mV-to-mW multipliers, and I took the average of a unit I trusted the most, a 940. Using this sole multiplier as the "calibration", I recalculated the measured mW figures and compared to the factory recommended range. Most of the other units were nicely within specification, but this 530 in question, that immediately popped out, being near 40% below the necessary values, i.e., 0,55 mW and 4,32 mW versus 0,9 mW and 7,0 mW respectively. Now, it might be that easy, but before changing anything, I want to check the IOP, to see, whether that meets the specs, and set the measured value for further adjustments. For this I will need that rig connecting to the drive, currently waiting for the special connector to arrive. So much for now, I will update the thread as I progress. Some photos attached below, just for fun.

I received a similar, albeit slightly smaller, mix of boxed and unboxed discs today too 🙂

Which sort of cases are you after? You used to be able to buy the basic hinged jewel cases from Amazon but I've not seen them on there for a few years now: If you're UK based Retro Style Media sell them: https://www.retrostylemedia.co.uk/product/clear-minidisc-case Price per case varies depending on how many you buy. Note that the quoted price is ex VAT so you'll need to factor that in as well. They also sell the larger cases that pre-recorded discs used to come in back in the 90s: They come in a variety of colours but are a lot more expensive. You can find them here: https://www.retrostylemedia.co.uk/shop/minidisc-cases That website also has templates to download for the inserts etc. There's a bit more info (and a video) here:

Don't worry about it - I got myself a Sony LAM for testing and ended up falling in love with the whole LAM series of devices. I have 3 now, so I use that functionality regularly 😆

Over the past couple of months, I've been bitten by the MD bug again. I hadn't visited this forum in a VERY long time. I've used one of my MZ-NH900s at my work desk on almost a daily basis for 10+ years. It sits it's original cradle, powered from the AC adapter because the battery long since gave up the ghost. I have about 20 disc's (a mix of Hi-MD and standard MD My other NH900 has been broken for years after it fell out of my pocket and a disc got jammed. Was able to get the disc out by disassembling the recorder but when I all went back together the buttons were no longer responsive... So I put it in a storage box with my other MD stuff that wasn't used anymore. FF 1month ago, I was digging thru some things and came across my box MD recorders. Pulled out the NH900 and took it apart again. Long story short, it's had been returned to service! While looking for info on repair, I came across this site and an intro to Reddit MD. My interest stoked again, burned some new disc's, reorganized some of my favorites, and am trying my hand at labeling. I've also managed to buy a couple of new Hi-MD blanks and some used standard MDs. It's always fun to go thru used disc's from someone else to see what's on them 🙂 My MD arsenal consists of: MZ-R500, MZ-N707 (eprom nodded), MZ-N920, IM-DR420, MZ-NH600D, 2-MZ-NH900s, 2-MZ-RH10s (both with bad displays), and a MZ-RH910. 150ish standard MDs and 15 Hi-MDs. Most of my standard disc's are Hi-MD formated and most of the music is burned in ATRAC3plus @256k. I simply LOVE this format!

Nice to see SIF back up. Why was it down? It was quite a long time. I think many people have given up on it. That http://www.minidisc.wiki has turned out pretty nice btw. Still has a ways to go, but it has data on some devices not found anywhere else in English.

I don't have a question, just wanted to post a brief "ode" to my Sony MZ-R90 which I got, unexpectedly, as a birthday present in 2000. It transformed portable audio for me, but six short months later, my MZ-R90 was stolen by an opportunistic thief. Not long after that, I moved on to MP3 players, but just recently I have been reminiscing wistfully about that beautiful little piece of music technology. I had the black version, and I think the industrial design is really magnificent.

Back in 1997, long before MP3 was anything more than a concept, I was serving in the Air Force and frequently deployed overseas. Some guys on the squadron introduced me to a strange format for making music portable. MiniDisc. I soon got to learn that those tough little discs survived the rough-and-tumble of life in a kit-bag. We each bought portable players, and would ‘pool’ our discs together to make little music libraries, would trade discs with one another, and would copy CD’s for one another back home. No matter where we were in the world, AA batteries were easy to obtain, and just a handful of batteries would literally last weeks. It was a pocket-sized bit of luxury that we could carry with us, and I loved it. ......then, along came MP3 players and the ubiquitous ‘iPod’. Suddenly we could carry all of our music in a small space, and it seemed that the MiniDisc was dead. Within about 3 years everyone I knew had ditched the format and were literally giving away their discs and players, as were oil-rig workers, fishermen, and other locals who worked away from home for extended periods. I too, confined my MiniDisc collection to a box in the loft, and bought an iPod Classic. Fast-forward to 2005, and I deployed for a 4-month tour to Iraq. My iPod came with me, and I had the small luxury of my music collection to fall back on, OR SO I THOUGHT. By the second week I had the sickening ‘Sync Reset’ display (which of course was impossible without my PC) and in one fell swoop I lost my music. Other guys had problems with the portable power-generators cooking their wall-plug chargers, and soon quite a few of us had lost the use of our players, just when we would have appreciated them the most! Back home, and I was quickly falling out of love with my iPod. It seemed that whenever I updated my collection there would be issues with mixed/missing title-tracks and artwork. Any albums entitled ‘Greatest Hits’ would become an amalgamated mess, and whilst the battery-life seemed to get ever shorter, the demands for a ‘sync reset’ increased. The love was fading. I noticed something else, too. My listening habits were changing. My seemingly endless access to music made me a lazy listener, and I would frequently jump from album to album, track to track, and would often skip mid-way through a track. My days of listening to an album the way that the artist intended, had gone. This wasn’t music enjoyment. ....and so, by 2008 I was back to my MiniDisc, and what I revival it was! Equipment that had previously been prohibitively expensive was now dirt-cheap, and I was living the hobby like a millionaire! I soon had units for every occasion with Sony JA20ES and JA50ES decks for hifi use, numerous portable players, and a Pioneer MEH P9000 head-unit for the car. I could afford to be extravagant with discs, and my well used dozen or so swelled up to over 1,000. That was 10 years ago, and nothing much since then has changed. I still indulge in the childhood enjoyment of putting a ‘mixtape’ together in real-time, copying music from my CD’s and vinyl to Type-R SP to listen to in the car, or out walking the dog. Because space is at a premium my playlists are more carefully considered, and I listen to each track in full. My listening-habits are back to where they should be. In 20 years I can count on one hand the number of corrupted discs I’ve suffered, only ever having to re-copy one album. I keep discs and a spare player at work, in the summerhouse and in the car, and I have a physical, tangible connection with my music collection again. MiniDisc as a commercial format is dead, and I’m OK with that. It continues to live on in my household, and probably will do for years to come, maybe even for another decade or more. I continue to love the ‘forgotten format’, and those robust little discs give me everything I need.

Hi Folks, Long time no post, busy with child rearing. :-) I do stop by to read up on new posts and topics. I ran across this video on YouTube yesterday, sorry to post if everyone has already seen it but it was good to see and I wanted to share with all. Cheers!

It is currently admitted that the MZ-RH1 has the best DAC, ergo the best sound. I prefer however the sound of QS and ES Sony decks.

Hi all! So I've started a little project for myself. Minidisc never really caught on too well in canada so I won't be stmbling on any racks at the thrift shop anytime soon. I've been looking for storage solutions, haven't been a big fan of the wine box idea, generally I haven't seen anything that really caught my eye. For some reason it never dawned on me in the last year to 3D print some racks... I'm not sure why, I've been 3D printing everything else for years.... So I designed these up yesterday with some spare time. They're very rough still and very utilitarian. The larger one holds 10 discs and is meant to stack vertically (and has holes for nesting feet, and holes for screws). The smaller one to the right I haven't tested yet but I am thinking of a wall unit that makes the discs look like they are floating out of the wall. Edit wise I'm going to shrink the width by 2mm and perhaps put the discs at a slight downard angle rather than 90 degree so that if they were on an uneven surface, they'd still stay in the rack. What do you guys think? Feel free to toss any ideas my way! (also, for curiosity sake, the larger one took 8 hours to print! 3d printing is pretty cool but it's still a very slow process.) (The render) and printed

I got the drivers installed on my computer. I recommend watching this youtube video thats how i did it.

In case anyone is interested... I´ve written a review of the Sony MZ-R 50. http://marlene-d.blogspot.de/2013/07/the-legendary-sony-mz-r-50-review.html

I just wanted to say that it is nice to have some new members who are clearly MD lovers around to join in on the discussion and add new thoughts, ideas and opinions. Welcome all. :-)

Buy LIP-4 battery. First open all the cover of LIP-4. then you can small PCB. just remove the PCB using soldering iron or else. Do the same things with LIP-3 batteries. take the small PCB from LIP-3 and put to LIP-4 battery cell use soldering iron. Then cover you new battery, make sure it won't have electronics shortcuts. You'll have a new long lasting battery. It works on my MZ-N10.

I have a Sony MDS-JE780 for sale. It is silver and in mint condition as it has been hardly used. It is based in Wolverhampton so can be collected, or can be posted at additional cost. (I estimate about £7 with recorded delivery) £80 ono. Spec taken from the Sony website: Hybrid Pulse D/A Converter ATRAC DSP Type-S Long Time Recording and Playback (LP2, LP4) Pitch Control Scale Factor Edit NetMD Control A1 Keyboard Terminal 1 x Optical & 1 x Coaxial Input & 1 x Optical Output Available inblack and silverSee the link for more info.... http://www.sony.co.u...=TechnicalSpecs

MiniDisc is not useless; it's obsolete. There is a key difference. Nothing as multifaceted as a MiniDisc recorder can be said to be useless. That said, I think that even if Sony had marketed MiniDisc successfully, it would be obsolescent today because its competitors are more feature-rich. I have difficulty following some of the logic in this thread. MiniDisc and MP3 players both have shuffle functions. It's up to the user whether or not to use them, and absolutely nothing about an MP3 player compels one to do so. It SHOULD go without saying that either is just as capable of playing entire albums chronologically. You're arguing against your perceptions of MP3 users' supposed preferences, which are likely exaggerated and unfounded. The issue was the native functionality of the devices and which better suited the questioner. I still have my MiniDisc players, though I almost exclusively use my MP3 player (and never on shuffle). I may be returning to reporting soon and thus would use my MiniDisc to record, even though my MP3 player has a voice recorder. I also take out MiniDisc sometimes just for nostalgia. Whereas many of you are exalting album listening, I actually got into MiniDisc because it facilitated playlists, but now MP3 players do this better because the track need not be re-uploaded to form the playlist. Album listening has its advantages and purposes, but playlists demonstrate the user's creativity and make for great time travel. In my moments of nostalgia, I can call up playlists of the songs that defined eras I miss. It's a beautiful thing. One of you said you found MP3 players useless because they could not do all the things a MiniDisc player could. That depends on the MP3 player. (Further, it's a bogus statement because any mass storage device that plays music clearly has a twofold desirable purpose.) I actually can edit titles and move files on the go, but let's be honest: It is rare that such an act is of such pressing import that it can't wait until one gets home. My MP3 player is an Archos 5, which, like many MP3 players, has great sound quality, radio, a 250-gigabyte hard drive, a voice recorder, Wi-FI, Web radio and TV, DVR, picture display, and video. Useless because it's an MP3 player? Oh, brother. Much of this stems from your zeal to vindicate the MiniDisc, which I love. Another example is the citation of an intangible such as "cool factor," which lies in the eye of the beholder. Consider that being in the in-crowd like an Apple user can be said to be cool. Also, cool as in different just means anything opposed to the leading product, and that doesn't necessarily mean a MiniDisc. A lesser-known MP3 player can turn heads, but turning heads is not where the joy in product use lies. It is also flawed logic to assert that one likes MiniDisc because one prefers to carry around just a few albums. One can choose to listen to just a few on an MP3 player, first of all. The mere presence of all the other tracks you have neatly stored on the hard drive will not weigh heavily on the mind. Second, both MP3 players and MiniDiscs are mass storage devices. That's like one compulsive overeater defaming another because the other is even worse. That does not make you the icon of restraint; rather, you prefer a lesser example of excess. I do believe there still are real advantages to MiniDisc that relate to its native functionality. It's durable, sounds great, and records. It edges out MP3 in battery life, line-in recording, and usually voice recording. Actually, recording is where its greatest strength is now. Another strength is that different models are tailored to different uses; some have radio, some record and others have a digital amplifier, for instance. I love that my MP3 player works with Windows Media Player, which keeps track of the tracks you have and have not added to the device. Syncing automatically adds the new tracks. If I went back to MinDisc, I'd have to guess where I left off as I tried to upload all the music I have purchased since then to MiniDiscs. Also, I don't have to be bothered with SonicStage or ATRAC anymore, and I am glad. I don't have a second-generation Hi-MD player, so I can't put MP3s on them.

I have an N510 and a DN430. Both sound really good. I also have some S1's which, I know, are type R. They both sound excellent to me. I figured I'd take the (possible) slight noise quality hit and lack of remote for bombproof (especially in Orygun) performance of the S1. I can say those DN430's sound just fine. I think you can find that model with a radio too

Hello, has somebody tried to hack SONY NAC-HD1 250GB Gigajuke? The one thing I changed, I expanded storage from 250GB to 1TB of storage. Show next post below. Expanding size of your Sony NAC-HD1 is pretty easy. I'll be glad to help you considering NAC-HD1 and moving data partitions to larger hard disk, such as 3TB western digital sataIII drive, cause I have my own NAC-HD1E @ home I migrate all of my music to larger disk. In Europe, sony provide NAC-HD1E model, without "ANY MUSIC" function, other functions are exact to Sony's NAC-HD1 Japanese model. I wrote down things you need to expand NAC-HD1E/NAC-HD1 on larger disk: 1) Destination drive (1TB, 2TB, 3TB ... etc) I used WESTERN DIGITAL, 1TB, SATA, 7200RPM, 32MB cache, RE WD1002FBYS 2) SATA TO IDE CONVERTER BOARD (sony use old parallel ata controller and nowadays P-ATA is going to disappear completely, further disks are provided only on sata interface. Show this link: http://www.cooldrive...toidecofor.html N.B.!!! Remeber, that SATA does not need MASTER and SLAVE modes, theese modes can be selected on CONVERTER BOARD. As we know, system uses hard disk to boot, you need to set it as MASTER disk on CONVERTER, and CD-ROM - SLAVE 3) personal computer (PC) with P-ATA and S-ATA (sata) connectors and linux distribution Live CD, personally I used Fedora core 12 Live CD 4) Acronis Disk Director bootable CD 5) elementary knowledge of basic Linux/UNIX shell commands Instructions (STEP BY STEP): 1) open GigaJuke Deck, disassemble hard disk and it's connectors from unit 2) connect both NAC-HD1 orginal P-ATA hard disk and the new one SATA hard disk drive on which you want to clone GigaJuke to PC 3) boot your computer with linux live and enter system console via terminal and with super-user rights Type su at the command promt: linux# su Then we need device names with apropriate dev's linux# ls /dev then output shows /dev/hda1 /dev/sdb1 etc on system properties under hard disk managment you can detect hard disk's system name. For example, let's say the first drive (original drive from JukeBox) is called /dev/hda (ATA drive) and the destination /dev/sdb (new disk where all information is going to be copied sector by sector) Linux/UNIX cames with utility called data dump, you can execute it by entering command dd with parameters. dd utility can copy hard disk contents sector by sector. to copy original disk contents (boot record, partitions - swap, ext3 fs) you must type the command dd if=/dev/hda of=/dev/sdb bs=65536 where: dd - data dump utility, if=/dev/hda - source or input drive (listed as hda under dev) , of=/dev/sdb destination or output drive (listed as sdb under dev) , bs = 65536 (64k) - block size (in bytes) typicaly used for harddrive standard block sizes. N.B.!!! do not increase bs size under 64k, it will lead to errors during sector syncronize, smaller values susch as bs=32768 (32k) also can be used, but it takes longer to copy a disk. after copying the disk clone was completed. Only left one problem, after copying, there are only 250GB of allocated space on disk. N.B.!!! Do not use Acronis True Image, it will corrupt swap partition size and need to do disk clone again. Need to resize partition, it's done by Acronis Disk Doctor. You need to boot Acronis Disk Doctor CD and resize partition. after resize boot again linux live cd and shell promt type command fsck fsck sdb and wait till check is complete. Shut down computer and disconnect new hard disk and prepare to put it on GigaJuke Deck. Putting new disk on GigaJuke Assemble hard disk holder unit. Place The converter board on sata connector on hard disk, then wire connectors to converter board and connect PATA cable. GigaJuke is ready The you can fully assemble sony's deck unit. Turn the unit on and wait until it boots. I'll recommend that U have a backup copy of you music and reformat the new free space with format function on NAC-HD1, then restore again, because NAC-HD1 creates indexes for storage, and sometimes unit will be not happy to detect that unit has more storage than it was on previous format. Believe, this may help

That's not really the case - Zadig is used to install the libusb driver, that makes it possible for Chrome to access the USB devices. Sony driver (the one used for SonicStage) locks the NetMD device down - it makes it unavailable for other apps to use. It's still necessary to use Zadig (or a 32-bit libusb driver in general) to run Web Minidisc on a 32-bit Windows system.

It's a couple of months later (and more) since I ran the the E10 direct to my my Kanto TUK powereds. Since then, I have added a Cambridge Audio DACMagic 100 to the mix. It has a Wolfson WM8742 chip for its DAC, and I have the E10 connected to it via coax. For me, at least, the DM100 exceeds both the E10's AK4524 and the TUK's own DSP in how it sounds. Yes, MD decks have long been renowned for their DACs, but this is a new level of detail I'm hearing. (I'm allowing for the TUK's AMT tweeters.)

Put this OWH in the right way first. Poor recording head.

Humph. How can I be using MD so much and not know about Minidisc day! (Before seeing Techmoan's video that is). Thanks for starting this topic! For the record, whilst typing this, listening to Level 42 - True Colours on my MZ-R700...

ouch

You're trying to record an MD? Then the cable needs to go into Opt. In. of the deck.

As far as getting sonic stage to work again it is possible. Many people have gotten it to work on Windows 7 and 10 (not me, ha!) But I had success reviving my abilities to transfer music by using an older XP laptop...

Don't know if this helps - found a copy in my archives.....

Yes, 0.5mm pitch 50 pin can make it in a 1mm pitch 25 pin socket. I found this, but looks tooo long: here. But that guy has other width/length, may be worth asking. What is the length of your cable, Chris? I can also check my spares box. And whether or not is it an inverted cable (contacts on one end are on the back side of the ribbon).

I tried the HQRP gumstick batteries and I never had any luck with them. They all had high self discharge characteristics and developed high internal resistance pretty quickly. The only NH-14WM replacement I've used that wasn't high self discharge is the Sofirn 3000mah battery from China. Don't let the name fool you , it's no where near 3000mah. Its like 1200mah but will hold a charge. The Sofirn battery is all white in color and its still going after a year now. It's not as good as the original Sony pr Sharp gumsticks were but way better than any HQRP I've ever tried.

Somebody know that one ? HQRP Portable CD / MD / MP3 Battery for Uniross RB103244, RB103246 Replacement plus Coaster http://www.amazon.com/HQRP-Portable-RB103244-RB103246-Replacement/dp/B0047ZW4BM

That is classic! I love it...

I really enjoy minidiscs. What I've been doing is converting my favorite albums to minidisc, and since a person can't go to the store and buy albums, or sticker shapes for the discs, I've been printing my stickers from the local copy store. Here's some cool stuff I made What do you think?

Funny how some of the images used are from Bland10000's gallery!

Ooooh... I´m sorry, but 96 kHz has nothing to do with oversampling. Oversampling is something completely different perfectly explained by Wikipedia: "In signal processing, oversampling is the process of sampling a signal with a sampling frequency significantly higher than the Nyquist frequency. Theoretically a bandwidth-limited signal can be perfectly reconstructed if sampled at or above the Nyquist frequency. Oversampling improves resolution, reduces noise and helps avoid aliasing and phase distortion by relaxing anti-aliasing filter performance requirements." The DSPs you mentioned are trying to fix errors where none exist, I think I´ve even said that to you some months before. Mp3 sounds on occasion slightly muffled - but not because frequencies are removed, it´s because the timing resolution isn´t small enough (AAC fixes that).

Did you ever find these? I have a whole box of a bunch of MD stuff getting rid of and recall seeing various cases in there. Good chance I have what you are looking for.

I have a lot of 74' and even 60' MD blanks that fitted my "one album" per disc strategy...

Not expensive for a pro MD blank but why paying that much for a MD blank if it is not a beauty like a TDK Bitclub or Wa disc ? Hi-MD blank discs : eBay is the best way to find them.

I think Sergio is right, that sale ended up with a huge profit for the seller but this is not typical. I bought mine used about two years ago from a mate here on the boards and at the time I paid $180 USD. I had to immediately replace the battery as the 8 year old unit would only hold a charge for an hour or so. It actually still functions well today. Very nice little player only unit, no doubt one of the coolest Sony made in my opinion. Be honest about the battery when you list it, most serious buyers for this unit will know the details of the design and understand that the small, non-user replaceable LiON battery has a shelf life of around 5 or six years. May I also suggest that you try to get a few nicely lit focused photos of the unit? The aesthetics of this cool little machine will go a long way to stir up interest in buyers, that can't be appreciated with grainy, out of focus pictures ... Let us know when you list it, I'd be interested in watching it to see what you fetch! One other thought I had is that it seems like the market driven sales always do better and the idea is to sell the unit, too many greedy folks will list a unit such as this for Buy it now at $250 or something way too high and bidders don't want to immediately commit to that, start the bidding at zero or some low and reasonable value, no more than $50 and you'll see what the demand is. I see units all the time sell for a good and fair market driven price when listed this way. Other units listed with high BIN or high reserve prices will just come back up for sale again because no one bites ...

Hi Ari, i ve bought mine from UK in the March of 2011, in perfect condition with box and all accessories (you can see it on my site) for about 80 Euros plus shipping. I firmly believe that every now and then on ebay, two / three crazy men decide that an MD must be them. It 's a lucky for you, I hope that it is so also for your E10. But I do not think you can exceed 100/120 € Have a nice day Sergio

1) from the moment the MD is not any more wrapped, it is consider are a used one. To distingued such MDs never recorded or just deleted there is no way except perhaps the aspect of the MD itself. Maybe the service mode will give you more information about the disk but it is risky to enter inside service mode. 2) that depend on what you want to record. For example for a completely new recording, it is better to format using All Erase. For a re-recording of the same tracks, maybe you would like to keep the titles of the disc and name of groups, then edit your MD and delete only tracks.

it's pinned here in the downloads section. You can copy it to CD and then install from there, methinks. The fact sonic stage won't recognize a file but WMP will play it means it's safe to "delete" from SS (don't "delete the music file from the computer") and reimport the oma file. DO NOT System Restore or reformat etc until you are quite sure that you have decrypted the files. Only way to test that... copy some and try to play on another machine that has SS.

Actually this is the best system I rip my music to FLAC -- all of it. Now when I want to transfer to MD I create a NERO image audio CD xxx.nrg Needs the Mega plugin pack to handle FLAC but freely available overthe Internet I then in a Windows XP virtual machine mount the audio CD I've created with ALCOHOL 52% - the FREE version as a "virtual CD". Simple burner picks it up immediately and I can transfer to MD straight away. If i've created a copy of an original CD simple burner will get the track info from Gracenote CDDB just like burning from a "Real" CD. Cheers -K

A remote introduces additional contacts and active electronics (if it has a display), which may affect sound quality, so it is obviously better not to use it. The cleaner the path, the better the sound. The clamp filters do not affect sound quality in any way, and are totally useless in a normally working system. Their only function is to prevent the respective cable from becoming a radio noise transmitting antenna in case your computer turns mad and starts outputting radio frequency signals from its USB port. Such things do happen, and may affect entertainment/traffic and equipment control/emergency service radio transmissions in the neighborhood, but the probablity is infinitesimally small.

Actually the MD units are usually rated at 3V which is what the concern was about. I don't know about the new Hi-MD units but the older non-Hi-MD units mainly came pacakaged with transformer-type AC adapters. The float output from a 3V AC adapter is therefore above 5V and as you explained (very well I might add ) which is why the original person thought that 5V from the USB was okay. There was a concern that since the transformer adapter would go to closer to 3V under load that 5V constant (from the USB) is too much. However that just isn't true because of the fact that I described above--the newer MD units have a degree of protection--if they are overvoltaged they display a warning on the display and lock out the power to the unit. Actually I'd say it was a pretty darn good breakdown!