sfbp

Indeed,,, but we get a lot of people inquiring about such things. You could probably do quite well, if it tickled your fancy, servicing people's gear. Jim does it all but he's in England, and for anything even slightly heavy, shipment to the UK is out of the question. Cheers Stephen

Where do you live? (just idle, if self-interested, curiosity) Well done. Sounds like you are destined to become a resource for us.....

Whenever I see the words "just" (I know you said "I only want" but it seems equivalent) and "somehow" I always smell a rat. Unfortunately I'm thinking there are some problems doing what you want. I don't think you can keep an image AND edit its metadata. It's not like there's space for CD-Text reserved in an ISO image. You can make a CD (from individual tracks) with no gaps easily enough, though I agree SS may not be the way to do it.

For some reason ripping CD quality using SonicStage doesn't work very well. The other point is that it's very easy to set metadata. Once you convert to WAV files, the metadata is gone, and you have to add it all in (not just titles) again.

I have NOT figured out how to post full size pictures unless they are links to some other site. There's a way to do it, would someone please tell us how....

1. Sonic Stage. But make sure you rip to Atrac Advanced Lossless, not WAV 2. EAC will interrogate online CDText databases, just not as comprehensive as Gracenote/CDDB which SS uses. 3. M-Crew but it won't help you burn the information or rip to files. It will make MD's with the right title info for you, and uses Gracenote. You can copy and paste from M-Crew into Nero or something like that, but it's quite tedious to do.

Test mode on RH10/910 (I have 910 but presume they are the same) is one of the more reliable for getting into. I cannot test it for reasons I won't go into, but here is the information I remember. Someone should confirm this, and if it's wrong I will immediately delete this. 1. Remove MD disk from unit, close door 2. Turn on hold 3. Holding down "menu/search", press >> >> << << >> << >> << || || (the last two are the pause button). (just in case the above didn't come out I will write another way FF FF RW RW FF RW FF RW Pause Pause) (I think it's ok to turn off hold at this point; I usually forget otherwise and wonder why the machine is locked when I am finished). Remember to remove the power source (charger or gumstick battery) as the way to exit service mode. AS ALWAYS, you're on your own once you enter TEST mode. It's not my fault if you read this and something goes wrong. There are a zillion ways to make your machine useless once you get into TEST mode. Good luck!

Good point. I thought the pic simply showed a typical MD unit. Probably they did well to find any pic

Actually they aren't. What the article says is that they announced it effective September (which we did get reported here). What they're now saying is that even what was left unsold is now gone from the retail channel, I think. Stephen PS what error?

1. Import the whole track 2. Buy a copy of Sound Forge 9 or 10; edit the resulting upload. Actually instead (but not preferred) do an export to WAV and then use any editor you like. Hope this helps.

No worries, thanks for the kudos.

No to you, too. That's not a real photo (sorry by me for not following the link when I replied last night). The guy must have pulled it from some Sony promotional mockup. I wouldn't buy from him, that is for sure, as he's obviously got the skills to post a "fake" photo but not the willingness to take one of his own gear for sale.

MZ-RH910

Tweezers or needle nosed pliars are your best friend. The battery door mechanism can be bent back into shape after it loses it.

I think the circuitry in the MD portables decides (as most NiMH charging systems) when to turn on and off by measuring the voltage periodically. So anything which causes a voltage drop is a problem. Bad contacts, green guck from the brass corroding, battery "crystallising out". There are three solutions: 1. Clean up (this was effectively yours) 2. Adjust the settings in NVRAM to make the battery charge a bit longer. There's even a theory floating around (my theory, like the Dinosaur in Monty Python) that whole factories got the setting wrong because of the mains voltage/frequency in their country. Japanese-built models seem not to need adjusting, on the whole. Malaysian ones, European ones, I dunno. 3. Charge your gumsticks in something else (eg a model that is well adjusted - see 2 above). This may be another MD portable, or a wall charger. My favourite wall charger is the one made by GP (Gold Peak) who may still sell sets of 2 batteries and a charger. My favourite charging-engine is the MZ-R91 (although the MZ-R90 should be internally identical). Doing #2 takes a fair bit of patience, some accurate equipment, a very good abilty to see/manipulate small things, and a steady hand. Hope this helps.

It DOES work. If you need NetMD, you must download and install the Windows 7/64 driver from our downloads section. Hope this helps. Welcome to the forums!

Start and look for OTHER threads with posts by Jim Hoggarth. With luck he'll be along in a while and can give some direct advice. The sad thing is that the JE510 seems to be one of the only common units this happens to. Something to do with using a lot of metal in the construction, which gets (even though you can't see it) rusty. Whereas later models used plastic. Right, Jim?

You're right. There's a wide range of rates. My amp will show them - maybe your behringer shows input signal rate? Of course if input is 88.2 or higher, md won't cope at all. I know a lot of "normal" audio tracks on DVD are at 48000, but the "high-end" stuff may be at 96, probably for DVD-A as well as DVD-Video. And certainly if it's 24-bit, there's a much better chance the MD won't cope. Decks mostly have the 32/44.1/48 circuitry in them, too.

p.69 of the RH10 user manual (specifications) says 32/44.1/48 for input. This is common to all MD portables past the very first couple, so I'd be surprised if you were correct. The fact it doesn't practically work is another issue, of course.

1. Sonic Stage is not slow (if it is, then something's wrong). We've had quite a few people coming here and saying "thank goodness for something that works better than ITunes". It's a little eccentric, there are a few things to watch out for. 2. Sonic Stage is not dead - it's alive and well buried in something called X-App, Japanese only. 3. There is HEAVY DUTY encryption technology which Sony will never release, probably because they have cross licensed it to other major players or something like that. There's an open source adventure going on over at #linux-minidisc. The latest news is that I hear VLC (and ffmpeg) will be able to play Atrac3+ as well as Atrac3 (ie the HiMD tracks) within a month or so. Blame Sony for making their copy-protection software "tamper-proof". But don't blame them for trying to stop people from what they (Sony) see as misappropriation of their (and their artists') copyrighted material. Trust me, what can be done has been done.

As far as recommended strippers go, Bluecrab says this one is OK http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-SRC2496-24-Bit-Sample-Converter/dp/B0002E50J0

1. The "lossless" copy is a mirage. You have worse resolution in PCM than you do in HiSP 2. 48000 Hz DVD Audio -> 44100 Hz MD involves a resampling so it's not a bit perfect copy anyway 3. DVD is often (usually, even) more than 2 channels, so that has to be redistributed anyway for (Stereo) MD. The recommended ways of getting around this are: a. buy an SCMS-stripper. Cost around $200. You'll have to experiment with before and after resampling. b. Use some software to get the audio track off the DVD. c. See if you can find a (usually very cheap) DVD player that does not out put the SCMS bits. d. Go optical out from DVD to really good AV receiver and then sample the MD as analog (the MD decks are better than the portables for analog in, I think) using nice heavy gold-plated cables from the Receiver to the MD deck. Sorry. No real magic here.

Clearly you need BOTH units (master plot by Sony, dontcha know....?).

That looks like 4 for $85, not unreasonable as this makes them close to the price of (say) the MD Data disks as sold by Sony.

But it tries? I see where you're heading, the laser may be blown altogether. But I have also seen C13 when it wasn't actually blown, I think.