sfbp

I like the 980, it's one of the last if not THE last deck they manufactured. As Bruce states it has the CXD-2664R chip which means Type-S. I haven't used a 940 but I have several machines with the same DSP chip in, the CXD-2662R and I would say that they're highly reliable, even for LP2 and LP4. Since you're in the UK, the 980 is a good choice as it only works on 230V. I had to use a step-up transformer for mine. The 980 also has NetMD, but it's a bit slow and you can not send digitally from MD to PC.

Odd.. since it appears to be you that asked for it in the first place.

1. Follow the instructions here (in the first post of the thread): 2. Get rid of ALL traces of the old driver configuration files (the actual .SYS don't matter, it's the .INF which do matter). This will involve searching for .INF files in the WINDOWSINF directory containing "NetMD". They will all be named "oem<nn>.inf", where "<nn>" is a number between 1 and 99 (actually it might go over 100 but I've never checked that out). Delete them. DO NOT delete anything else, or your system will crash. 3. Reboot. 4. Try again to install. Note that for W8 there may be special tricks to get access to c:windows and therefore c:windowsinf, I am not sure. A combination of grep and cmd.exe may do the trick. I don't have a W8 to try it on.

And you don't actually need to use SS to play things.

Evrrything's obviously fine EXCEPT that you ended up with mp3s. Most here on the board would prefer ATRAC.

Thanks That in turn raises the question: where is the source for the remaining pieces? I'm not an open-source purist but I know that generally these things should at least be available if we post them. I'd better hold off until I know a bit more about GYM, especially if (as it appears to be) using Sony secret knowledge about encryption. Stephen

Current status is that Android can play MDLP (LP2 and LP4) only, using VLC or ffmpeg. That will change shortly, it is hoped, to include HiSP (and probably all HiMD bitrates), though not, at least initially, AAL, For the latter one may have to strip out the lossless part by hand. The other solution around the house (and potentially over the internet as streaming gets better and cheaper) is to have a DLNA server which converts to 1411KHz, 16-bit LPCM before streaming to your mobile device, TV, PC or music centre. I have been exploring this since my last post in this thread, and it works really well, at least for MDLP.

The FCT will enable you to move your files (after using it) to the new machine (or anywhere, such as play them via a LAN). The problem is dealt with, for some bitrates only, in VLC, avlib, and ffmpeg. However it would be better for your sanity to get them decrypted now, particularly because the ETA of the remaining formats being dealt with by those new software packages, is at present unknown. It *is* in the pipeline, but I wanted to warn you BEFORE you got all your music half way to new machine only to discover you couldn't play it. Please look again at post #2, and then search with google like this: File Conversion Tool site:sonyinsider.com Thanks and good luck.

You didn't find the File Conversion Tool, you found the OMA2MP3.EXE which is quite different. You don't really want to convert to MP3. You should stop that and run the FCT. DO run it from within SS. But whatever you do, no System Restores until you have converted everything.

More importantly you should run the File Conversion Tool. That way if the backup and restore fails you can still add the decrypted (for that is what it is, a decryption) files can be played on any installation of Windows instead of being tied to the one under which they were uploaded. But go ahead and do the Backup. I recommend you do the FCT conversion first, though.

try undoing the HD to the point of unplugging the connector and replugging it. Sounds like it might be an iffy SATA cable or something like that. Have you tried checking through all options on BIOS? Eg to see that you don't accidentally have TWO hard disks configured somehow. I'm not familiar with Sony Laptops at all, so this is just the sort of question I'd ask on any PC. I can't help with replacement or disassembly; however the user guide usually has that information. Good luck!

OK. Argument solved. My head duly arrived, it is a KMS-260E. THERE IS NO OVERWRITE HEAD ATTACHED. This means the seller's picture is slightly misleading, in my opinion (perhaps someone will correct me). No matter, I am happy that if one of my several decks blows up, the head is replaceable. I think the seller is perfectly correct, this works for many many different decks (though of course not portables which are quite different). Jim has a KMS-260E and he says the laser part (ie the lower) is identical. Philippe you are spot on; the E 89.00 is the right (light!) part for Aaron. Aaron you are quite right, the overwrite head is what differs between the different assemblies. Stephen

Did you check it has the same fault? (ie voltage to it is proper) Sounds like you have one machine you can leave permanently connected to USB for editing and data up/download.

No upgrade involved for me, since I don't have the original, having (I thought) no need for it. Is everything a body needs to make and use this software included in what you posted? Thanks Stephen

Almost like there's some alignment parameter which is at two opposite edges of tolerance on two units, and the disk is closer to the one it was made on (of course) - when you try to play it on the other machine, it sees the data as outside its comfort zone. I'd be inclined to do a full work up on the machine making the disks.

Why on earth would the Store Display mode be anything less than the very best picture available? Sounds like we have a miscommunication here. I would think you need to turn on "Scaling" or something like that.

Jim's here on the board, you can easily search using Google or the BBS's own search tool (I recommend the former, actually). He is based in Bradford.

The error I got was quite unrelated - it just would not play (in one case the sound was messed on LP2 tracks, in the other I got no sound at all) in my MDX-66XLP. But the two disks fingered were almost the exact two you showed, the RXG80 series and the orangey one (74 instead of 80). I have noticed that some NetMD units don't do that good a job from the PC. I recommend using HiMD portable to transfer to MDLP disks; I think the fact that all the HiMD units draw power from the USB may be something to do with it - it's too easy for a NetMD unit to get transient brownouts especially if running off NiMH batteries.

No optical out in high res.... they made sure of that.

hehe i just had a disk fail to play in my md changer, and it was the same (74 not 80) colour and make as the orange one in your pic, Jimma. It's something about certain disks, I am sure of it.

Sounds like the most likely problem is that you have some piece of software attempting to PROTECT you. And it's messing up the OpenMG install. Is Norton or McAfee or AVG turned on? If so, turn them off and try again. Make sure u hv internet conx and are not blocking OUTgoing connection attempts by the installer. There's definitely one or two errors that can be ignored. But I'm sure you tried things right after the error you got....

Jim Hoggarth's your man. He's more likely to be able to diagnose a failing driver circuit for that OLED, too.

Maybe that's it - disk (at least TOC ) imperfectly erased? I know the TOC is used by all formats including HiMD, and the rules for updating it are quite different to the rest of the image, at least for HiMD. So perhaps some info relating to old lp tracks got left around. I only mentioned the disk because I had had trouble. Quite different trouble, except that it varied depending on the units i tried to play it in.

I've definitely had trouble with the one on the right. Tres tres bizarre. Could it be the diagonal patterning on the underside, rather than the transparency of the top? Does the red one look like that too? Also wondering what happens if you paint the underside (I don't have to tell you to be mindful of how MD mechanisms work!)

Before you get too downcast, try putting the sidecar battery supply and an AA battery (Alkaline, not rechargeable). If you don't have the side car, try the unit plugged into the mains adapter directly, no battery at all. I know there are reports out there of OLED failing, but first I would be most inclined to get the unit up to spec on all power supply issues. There are NVRAM settings which may need to be adjusted (you need lots of gear to do it, sigh). OP - if you wanted to BUY the OLED display, forget it. The last listed price was over $150. Ridiculous!