sfbp

Sound forge will directly output tracks to NetMD. But they have to be deprotected before SF will open them.

The N910 does all the same (its basically a fixed N10) showing the phases. However it is still quite good at generating bad tracks when not plugged in.

Spot on, Simon! We will keep you around..... Cheers

Ok if you are only using the 64-bitter then there's no (new) information you can generate. The older drivers definitely had weird polling loops and such to cope with 1.1USB but I think the new driver does work in all cases, at least no one has reported issues. My concern was lest you were actually using one of the (old) 32 bit drivers by accident. But that doesn't seem likely, from what you are telling me Cheers Stephen

95% is definitely the moment at which it writes the TOC. 30% is the moment when it finishes setting up (I suspect massaging the source data but not sure, you can test on very long track transfers TO NetMD which I never do, preferring HiMD for opera when I am putting onto a disk for listening). In my experience the best way to get a song with dropouts (even on the MZ-N910, one of the later NetMD units) is to try doing it without being plugged into the charger. Why? Because most of them do NOT pass power to the device. The simple test is to see if the act of plugging in the USB will charge and/or activate-the-recorder-when-there's-no-battery. All HiMD units will charge from USB (and so do not suffer from this difficulty). If you switch to the last drivers (the ones for the RH1, NETMD052.SYS and NETMD760.SYS for 32-bit and 64-bit respectively) I have a hunch that the timing constraints go away. However without the use of the reconfigured INF file (for 32 bits) that I supplied, you will get one of the old drivers intended for the earlier models. These are the drivers known to cause upload problems with the RH1, once installed, and I would guess it has some effect on PC->MD data traffic too. If you are already using the RH1 drivers.......? - then my comments are probably a bit random. HTH.

Sorry had a busy day yesterday and looked briefly but hoping someone else might chime in. It works? Great news. I never heard from OP so didn't actually know. THIS IS A FORMAL CALL TO ALL SHARP NetMD owners to send in your PIDs and model numbers so I can clean up the .INF file(s). Welcome to the gang!

If 0825 is what is actually written on your optical pickup, you should now check and see if this is correctly entered as the IOP value. If not, there's a very good chance that fixing it may stop your problem. Save the old value just in case. Also you could try playing with the mains AC voltage to see if that makes a difference. You will need some gear to do that, though the power used by an MD deck is about 20W only, IIRC.

Is the N10 plugged into its mains supply (charger)? I sent you a PM about a week back, offering to merge your two accounts.

I have the HT-CT550 which is similar, I think. Its remote is specially set up to work a Sony TV. Maybe that's what you want. It has all the special Sony buttons (Bravia Sync etc). Unfortunately mine is not working with a Sony TV, so I have the same problem as you, too many remotes!

The most useful thing you can do is to find out the measured current, and put it in as the IOP value to the firmware. The Service manual (and if yours is no good try one of the others, they are all basically the same) explains rather badly how this is done. They assume you have a LPM. However there's a short cut. The heat comes because the READ (as in "read data off MD disk") power is not quite right. The first thing you need to check is that the IOP value printed on the bottom of the optical pickup is correctly entered in the firmware. Manuals say that this number is printed on a sticky piece of paper. It may be, but some kind person at the factory always writes the value in blue ink on the TOP of the head, so you don't even need to take it out. Running it as it is now, always hot, will eventually (maybe SOON) fry (kill) the OP. It may say "0692" which means 69.2. The number should be around 70, but it has to be correct down to 1/10th of a mA (the last digit). Once you put THAT number (using the IOPWR function in the firmware) your problem may disappear. Running hot for a long time will blow the optical pickup. Don't worry about adjusting the WRITE power (the value around 7 mW), the READ power is the one that matters. And it's this being out of whack that causes the heat, and eventually C13 and C14 errors. BTW check your AC voltage (mains) against the specs of the deck. Running a deck on slightly too high voltage can cause this sort of thing too. So if it says 220, and your voltage is 240, you may also have a problem. (I see that it may possibly be, for you, based on where you live). LPMs are very hard to find (I have one) and cost way more than the value of most decks, around $200. You will not be able to obtain the "mark 2" version that Sony tells about with the head in the shape of a minidisc. Sorry. But the regular ones are fine. I can give you the reference if you need it.

I have the 712's predecessors, the ICD-SX750 and 950. They both perform very well, with an abundance of choices for long compressed recordings. The big thing that the SX712 and SX813 have over either is the ability to insert a microSD card, which are now cheap (they were not when I bought the 8GB SX950 a couple of years ago). They do lack some of the nice codecs which Sony appears to have abandoned, but so what? If I can put 16GB in a 712, it becomes a no-brainer. The only thing better is a 24-bit machine such as the PCM-M10, and for most purposes it's not even important. And it doesn't go in the pocket in quite the same way as the ICD models are clearly designed to do.

The problem comes if you used and reused the disk. If it were a single recording or a series of recordings with no deletions, then you should be fine with the TOC cloning provided you can find the right deck (I have done it for someone with an LP4 recording indeed). But as soon as you delete stuff and then re-record, your audio data will get scattered, and so toc cloning the whole thing as a single track will produce the expected mess. If that doesn't matter, then you should be fine. IIRC you may need a DECK (not a portable) to do TOC cloning. Someone can put me straight on that point immediately. You would be a good candidate for the more modern forms of storage Personally, I have the luxury of an RH1 and nothing ever stays on an MD without me making a copy to computer as well, so that I can edit it with Sound Forge. Disks wear out. What is more disturbing, and you need to check right now, is whether your N1 has died. Sounds to me like the overwrite head is blown. Common fault, but you will blank any disk that you try to record or edit in any way whatever, on it. Eg. the first time you press Track Mark will be enough to blank the TOC.

Too bad... they used to go for about 10 bucks.

Just search ebay for RM-MC38EL. There should be lots. However they are all waaay overpriced right now. It might b worth waiting to see if anything turns up.

Email sent.

In which case let's throw as many as possible in and revise both 32- and 64- bit drivers.

I thought we went through this. But I see there is no sign of Sharp drivers in the NetMD 64-bit download. Here are some questions for everyone (OP included, of course - BTW welcome to our madcap band of minidisc nuts!) Question 1: has this device (indeed other Sharp devices) ever worked with Sonic Stage? Or only Beat Jam? Question 2: What are the VID and PID for the USB connector on this device (easy - look at the uninstalled items in device manager, look for yellow exclamations, then drill down until you see the Device IDs. I'd be very surprised if Sharp used all their own device keys (sorry, technical term to describe the encryption scheme that's built into NetMD), and more inclined to believe they simply copied all the technology that they licensed from Sony. I am more than willing to throw the appropriate lines into NETMD760.INF and send it to you by email to try. Sergio? John? Anyone at all?

Glad you got it working. Had to wonder if you needed the updated driver (see the downloads section) which takes the more recent driver and allows all units to use it for install. Not the 64-bit version, the 32-bit version. Still, I would move files from anywhere under your user tree, and put them in their own directory.

Hello and welcome. There's no such thing as a straight SP transfer. So probably your issue is conversion. W7 doesnt like different users getting at other users' data. I suspect the default is for SS to put ur data into your user private area. So the solution may be to create a new place for temporary (ie converted) files and make sure the permissions are such that all users can access it. Alternatively it may be as simple as starting the program from a user with elevated privilege ie an administrator. SS has configurations under tools-> options. You will need to create the temporary directory before pointing SS there, I think. Good luck. Please let us know what the problem turned out to be.

Mechanism is liable to overheat when alignment or laser power are off. Jim?

Of course for my part I would suggest that the NVRam settings are now wrong, for whatever reason. Either corrupted, or some resistance has shifted so the "wrong" voltage is now used as the trigger point for turning on or off charge. Following the adjustment procedure in the service manual will (well, may) fix this, if you are able.

The on-off of charging is controlled by (firmware-controlled) NVRAM settings which determine what voltage/current levels count as being charged or discharged. The prevailing fault on all the gumstick-battery-based units is bad contacts on the battery and battery door. Grunge changes the resistance and hence the voltages seen by the firmware. I didn't realise the RH10 has a cradle (the RH910 doesn't). Cradles generally worsen the problem by having more dubious contact points. So I'd start with something to clean the contacts, and some brand new gumstick batteries.There's plenty available - GP, Vapex, Powerstream to name some non-Sony ones. Also try the sidecar and a conventional AA as a method of trickle-charging any existing battery, if you are desperate (assuming you have the sidecar). Finally if all you need to do is wake the battery up, buy an MZ-R90 or R91 (should be cheap) as for some reason they are really good at getting these batteries charged. Welcome back to the little world of MD!

Do tell!

Third that. There was an outfit in the UK (Babz media) that had thousands of them, too. So you should be able to keep buying them. I don't see them on Ebay at the moment but there's no way they got rid of all those. This might be it: but they say "temporarily unavailable). http://www.officehero.co.uk/shop/pid_22013/TDK-Mini-Disk-80-minutes-Pack-of-10-Assorted-Colours-t17617.aspx Some here too, but a little more money: http://www.cityofficestationery.co.uk/view/1/38698/TDK17617/TDK-Mini-Disk-80min-Pk10-Ast--t17617.html

Hehe, you are on Jim's doorstep. You should be able to make quite the team with him, if you can figure out getting that driver installed with no further help. Welcome to the gang of MDholics!