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I'd guess the answer is "yes and no". I haven't looked carefully at the specs but both are NetMD capable. JB980 is definitely higher grade machine, though Jim claims it's the same as the 780. Check the connectors in the service manuals very carefully. The model of the drive in 470 and 770 is MDM-7A, in the 480, 780, 980 is MDM-7S1A What are you trying to fix?

Nor am I suggesting you purchase one. You will need an HDMI cable from the BD-E5400 to the TV.

Right, so from that price you must have bought it some time ago. Get the Samsung PLAYER (never mind about Samsung TV) and put its output to the TV you have. When I read "All I want to do" or "just" (admittedly not the "just" in your third sentence) I always respond "life is n e v e r simple". Good luck.

You have to navigate through windows explorer (the box that comes up asking you for the file name). Did you watch proudofmylife's video?

Sorry, you came late to the Windows game, it sounds like. Follow proudofmylife's directions. Let's see if I can summarize. So far so good, it is at least looking for drivers. I assume that this happened because you plugged in the NF810 and it started to look for them. You have to direct it to the spot where you extracted the drivers. When it asks you you will select NETMD760.INF. If you are wondering how to get it to ask you again, I suggest unplugging the device from USB and reconnecting it. In addition, make sure that it has power, preferably from the wall adapter. Unlike some later models which can "vampire" off the computer's USB, this one needs its own power to run the USB connector on it, and NiMH batteries tend to be a bit wimpy. Worst case, use the sidecar for an Alkaline AA (avoid rechargeable AA!), but the 3V wall adapter should be best.

Try updating the firmware? Sony's TVs have beautiful picture but not very good firmware. Even with the update I am not optimistic. I run something similar with the network connection, using DLNA, and there are too many restrictions on which files will play. Two recommendations: 1. A DLNA server such as KooRaRoo (www.kooraroo.com). Free to try and license is under $50. 2. A Samsung BD player (they vary hugely but you should be able to pick up a refurbished on on Ebay for $50-$100) such as BDP-E5400. These players mostly have much better firmware to carry out the task you have in mind. If you use the DLNA server to store your movies, you don't even have the hassle of copying on to USB sticks.

Yup. You can make the HiMD1 and HiMD3 yourself. But u will need to purchase a CD.

Click the download button. Save the file. Expand the file to a real directory. Point the installer at those files (proudofmylife's description is ok, but if that's the broken link, just update the NetMD driver with these new files).

Good luck!

Please don't scatter this one enquiry of yours over 5 or 6 different topics. Everyone reads everything. No need, and it's just annoying.

The pinned, featured, driver in our downloads section. NetMD for 64-bits

Warning: do not proceed unless you have (lots of experience in electronic repair) and all the gear: 1. Three types of test disks (2 you can manufacture yourself, but you will need working HiMD unit/s to do it. If your only HiMD is the one you are trying to service, in the immortal words of Hugh Grant "fuhgeddaboudid") 2. Regulated power supply (preferably x2) and precision voltmeter 3. Laser Power meter 4. Soldering iron in the event you brick things and have to hardwire the thing into service mode. Holding down group button, with hold turned on permanently, press FF FF RW RW FF RW FF RW || || (the last two are pressing "Pause").

It seems I was right. I heard privately from Frank that Jim has indeed fixed his RH1. Stay tuned.

The answer is very simple. Run the File Conversion Tool often. If you didn't, you are out of luck EXCEPT for LP2 and LP4 which will play in VLC.

One method would be to buy a $200 regulated power supply. That's what is used to service machines. Then you can be sure. Another is to "revive" the gumstick batteries with a refreshing charger such as the BC700 - look for another thread or I will post a link. IMO, there should be no difference between SONY powersupplies of 500mA and 1000mA... both way overspecified. I would put any oddness down to using some random third party PS such as the one in Philippe's picture (sorry Philippe but this is my bitter experience! Sony doesn't always specify ALL the PS characteristics). I know that "multi-voltage" PS's that I have used in the past a. deliver random voltage and current b. are quite good at blowing themselves or the item being charged. I could give you chapter and verse but I fear it may be 2.5 more years before you listen again. Your (wall charge) PS is emphatically NOT the culprit in what happened to your NH900. I guess I'm nobody. I like you, Gordon.

On the contrary, you answered me that it's likely not the overall power to the unit but only the laser power (or possibly the laser itself). Now Jim is back you may be able to get it fixed. The fact that it reads HiMD but not MD suggests one of two things: 1. the MD disks were recorded by a unit that is a bit "off", or; 2. the sub-alignment for the different laser powers needs to be tweaked. One can do this with a laser power meter, but really the best is to do the automatic servo alignment as per the service manual.

As I said (2.5 years ago), Laser power adjust.

N510 and NH900 should both be fine, it's a relatively standardised PS across NiMH minidiscs. 3V. Some examples: AC-ET305K AC-ES3010K2 The Aussie one you have may be AC-ES3010K The different one for charging Li-Ion is usually 6V such as AC-MZ60 and these 6V supplies are often (but not always) coloured green instead of orange. You should find model numbers in the service manuals, here in our downloads, or at minidisc.org.

The problem is not the busted overwrite head. The problem is some sequence of bad things when a microswitch or other moving part got stuck. So you could replace it and the same thing may happen. This is what Jim described to me.

As I say, one format's 24-bit is not the same as another's. ATRAC is using a logarithm approach. 24-bit WAV is using linear 24 bits. I really don't know how FLAC works.

I just went there - and noticed that if you buy two or more, shipping is free (at least to USA, I didn't check for myself).

I think internally they really are 24 bit. ATRAC is a floating point format, so it's not quite the same as "true" 24 bits. However if you go straight to a 24bit format from ATRAC using Sound Forge, you should keep it all.

If some third party is charging $40 I bet Sony's price was way more than that! Looking at the picture in the Ebay listing, I'd say this is stock from the Sony run, either pre- or post- Sony. The blue sticker looks (from a distance) absolutely identical.

Standard operating procedure for old Li batteries of any size, shape or age (except brand new). Or in the words of Winnie the Pooh "Crustimony proseedcake". It's indeed possible that the battery is ok and the fault lies with the charging circuits. They have to be calibrated (by voltage) when to turn on and when to turn off. I have done this for other models following the service procedures laid down, so far only for NiMH batteries. I have no experience with LiIon getting out of whack in MD gear - probably I have been lucky. It may also happen when the contacts are simply bad. So some cleaning is maybe recommended, provided you know what you're doing. We (I at least) recently learned of technology that revives batteries. I'm sure there is a Li Ion version of the amazing BC700 (for NiMH) which I acquired recently thanks to a member here telling about it. Someone may chime in here with the details, and this is better than me blindly recommending something of which I have no direct experience. Yes, I have seen this with RH1 battery, but it always revived in the end (the RH1 takes the LIP-4WM mentioned by qualia017). Typically when the battery is kept near 100% all the time and recharged every night, only discharging slightly when someone takes it walkabout for 1/2 hr. This is actually the situation with a lot of cell phones too. No, Li Ion batteries do not last forever. My advice: 1. attempt to discharge the battery safely. To "reset" the functioning of Li batteries it is absolutely necessary to discharge them below 30% every few months. Do NOT do this by shorting out the terminals - BANG! POOF! 2. When you recharge (and this is the same for ALL Li Ion batteries) do not draw power (use the machine the battery is powering), until charge is complete. 3. Make sure you have a really good power source, some USB based supplies are very wimpy. Only if none of this does any good, should you consider the trick of buying fresh battery and modifying it as per the steps outlined by qualia017. IMHO.