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sfbp

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Everything posted by sfbp

  1. IT WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Everything except ATRAC Advanced Lossless (AAL). I knew they wouldn't be doing that any time soon. I just managed to play an ATRAC file on my Android phone (via mp3, but who cares!? could be via WAV).
  2. Update: further research indicates that ffmpeg probably has the support, VLC not yet. Either way all the hassles with DRM and people losing files because Windows insisted on upgrading are likely gone forever. When this finally makes it to full release, this is the moment we've all been waiting for! Currently Android and other non-Windows devices can play MDLP only. When this hits, all .oma files should be playable by any software that uses ffmpeg (for example KooRaRoo DLNA server).
  3. When I last checked, VLC (and therefore ffmpeg) do not have any support for ATRAC3+. So the software you are ??messing with likely failed at the point where it first hits HiMD data. If, on the other hand, VLC is starting to play SOME Hi-MD data, then hooray! They've finally incorporated the same technology which successfully decrypts the MDLP files (LP2 and LP4). If the data is corrupt, tant pis as they say in Frankreich. On my list of things to check into, whether they finally did something. What version of VLC or ffmpeg are you using please? Date of build would be most helpful, and also version number. Edit: it appears that the A3+ decoder is on its way to release. This is great news! I will try it out pretty soon. The problem of being senstive to a one-bit change in the data is inherent in ANY system which uses content protection ("DRM"). Apple's Itunes are just as bad. So please forget roughaging Sony for this. There's a guy posted an RH10 he wants to sell in the last 24 hours here, if you want to try that. Has yours died completely?
  4. Does the disk turn at all when you insert? You won't be able to see this unless you take the lid off the actual drive unit. Probably it needs to be sent to someone with a laser power meter (me or jim?) although some problems are mechanical or basic electronic in nature and can be fixed without. Mind you for those, Jim may be a better bet. I tried so called repair shops here and they hadn't a clue. It's up to you if you think you can learn to fix then good on you, I'll try to pass on what I know. I'm still unclear how the damage happened in the first place,,, whether it was the KidInsertsCoin thing or just years of use. The problem I think is that being a servo system that as things begin to drift then heating occurs, and ultimately the laser gets fried. Most times I don't think it actually dies, it's just that adjusting it (or installing a new one) is a bit tricky. The procedures are all in the service manual, although sometimes the later manuals assume you already knew the previous procedures and only bother to explain the parts that are new. All very confusing.
  5. It's a servo system. Read something, adjust based on what comes back, try again, until it's right. The laser is turning on in the anticipation that shortly something will be spinning beneath it. But if the disk won't even turn then there's no chance anything will work. Now you have to figure out why. Most often it will spin a couple of times and then stop because coherent signal doesn't come back from the head.
  6. The "command" read by CPU from the buttons are interpreted by changes in resistance. If the contacts are bad, or if the power supply is not properly delivering the right voltage to the mainboard, this is the kind of issue you will experience. It needs cleaning and servicing. And in the interim (until you can arrange or perform that yourself), try to get a sidecar battery holder and use an real alkaline AA in it (not a rechargeable). Also you may have better luck using the unit with mains charger plugged in (I understand that may not suit your use case).
  7. I agree that the title1 and title2 options are gone forever. However, it's much easier to find these by pressing the display button on the remote (RM-MC38EL), assuming you have one. I for one have never used those options, it's too much of a pain as one always needs to switch back straightaway to something else. Not only that, the full metadata is now shown in the only title line of the (main) unit's display. A much better solution IMHO. Have you tried following the instructions for what to do after servicing, namely a "Resume Clear"? The unfortunate thing about the NH600/D service manual(s) is that they appear to rely on information contained in the NH900 service manual. From looking around it seems highly likely that to get back to original state you may end up having to do a full service. Not advisable unless you have all the gear, though.
  8. sfbp

    NW-A1000 DIM display

    I mean that there will be settings in servicing which control how the OLED gets lit. Separate from whether the device will play. Same on HiMD, frequently playback is great but can't read the screen.
  9. sfbp

    NW-A1000 DIM display

    How can you be sure it's not a power problem?
  10. Ha! I might be more curious if he hadn't used the Sony stock picture along with his other photographs of the real thing. It's beautiful but surely not worth the eventual $600+ it will go for (the starting price is $500 and this is a 6-day auction)? Did anyone watch Salamander?
  11. You might also consider letting the RH1 without power of any kind overnight..... At least these units don't require a battery... the USB will power them just fine.
  12. In my case, what I did was to buy a replacement. It wasn't perfect either. But somehow the act of changing batteries on the RH1 convinced it (and the batteries) to start acting properly again - on both of them, and both are still alive to this day. I know on an android phone, the solution is no more complicated than deleting batterystats.bin. I bet there's some NVRam setting in the RH1 which needs tweaking. But I can't tell you what it is, and you would be ill-advised to attempt an NV reset as recalibrating everything on a HiMD (particularly the RH1) is a real pain in the whatever.
  13. I don't want to be rude, but have you tried Googling this? I just did and found a dozen websites all saying the same thing - make the battery discharge, over and over until the unit won't turn on. Then charge it WITHOUT turning the unit on, for as long as possible. A couple of days if you can.
  14. Have you ever tried the documented methods for reviving batteries? I certainly believe you; but this problem is only going to get worse as time goes on. I had some weird experiences with LIP-4WM but eventually they revived. Some of this must be due to the firmware in the unit it's used with, don't you think?
  15. I've never heard mention of it before, although it is in minidisc.org's equipment browser (no manuals and few details). Sounds like you are on the track of this. Good luck!
  16. Curious.... what is the stated voltage requirement? I have no idea about this unit, or whether it plugs into mains directly. I have seen weird stuff when you are supposed to give a unit 9V but 6V works "most of the time", for example. I have seen weird stuff when you plug a Japanese unit (100V) into 120+ VAC, or vice-versa.
  17. 0097 - perfect. Give me 24 hours and I'll send you an update to the 32-bit driver, and you can test it. If it works, we will update both 32 and 64 bit driver packages to support this unit. I'm a bit surprised that you can't get the driver off the old release CD or HD. If you didn't reformat, it should be as simple as finding the existing driver by doing update. But thank you for the info, this means that device will be supported on Windows 7. Note: you will have to remove all the EXISTING drivers for this to work properly. I'll post a link to that in my email to you.
  18. Try looking in the device manager for details of the PID and VID (presumably the VID will be 054C for Sony) and we can help. Look for the yellow exclamation point, and drill down to "device details", possibly under USB, or (more likely) labelled as "unknown device" (I'm not 100% sure about this point).
  19. There's no 15.5kHz cutoff in normal ATRAC (SP), surely? That only came with LP2 (ATRAC3). I have no idea what you're talking about, Chris. Have you ever looked at the specs for a pre-Type-R deck?
  20. Look through the site. Windows 8 forces drivers to be signed which this driver is not. You have to suppress driver signing for long enough to install. It's perfectly safe to do this for this driver.
  21. Just an off-the-cuff comment from me (with no real scientific basis): I have a hunch that the major difference between the high end models and the less expensive ones is in the quality of the DAC. Once you use optical out that becomes irrelevant. The ES models were made at a date when almost nobody had an amplifier that accepted optical input. However it's still possible that the ATRAC data reading circuit works better on the high end models. Can your methodology rule that out?
  22. C13 probably means a laser adjust. Want me to take a shot at it? If there are the same number of strands (ie the connector fits), I say go for it. I think the settings are stored in the drive, not the deck.
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