sfbp

Ah the old "dead backup battery" problem, you think?

And it was spite caused you to vote twice? I rather think that was dishonesty.

I'd be surprised if it's anything to do with the mechanism then. You could try seeing what a working deck does with no mechanism at all. Maybe something about it will remind you about what's different from your busted machine.

Quite right, Chris (Mostly MD/Sony_Fan) voted twice twice. It will all be taken into account when the "votes" are counted.

Hmmm.. my ignorance here. Does the IOP value (which is either measured by voltmeter or copied off the OP itself where some kind person usually writes in INK on the top what is printed and inaccessible on the bottom!) get written to the mechanism somewhere, or is it stored in the main board? IE where is the so-called NVRAM? If it's in what's left behind after you took out the duff mechanism (and I think it is), you're going to have to write the IOP value from the replacement mechanism into that machine. Jim doesn't respond these days, but he is definitely around. You could look him up (you'll find it easily) and send him a written letter perhaps..... OK, back to your immediate problem. What does the deck do with NO mechanism connected?

All the indications are that the 20 needs adjusting. The most confusing thing about these units (IMO) is that writes usually work but reads fail quite easily. The read power is 1/10th of the write power (and so harder to adjust correctly), and often a read-back is made just after a write has been done. It is this read that gives the C13, not the write itself. I cannot speculate on the causes (Jim might know, they could be mechanical, or electrical in origin) but both portables and decks are designed with service routines that should fix this. One thing to check is that the IOP value has been recorded (if the pickup got changed the firmware might have the value of the previous pickup), see page 8 of the SM. And whilst you're there, running the self-diagnosis (pages 2-3, and 10) may be quite helpful and give a clue to what's wrong. But you've probably already done that.

I've had a related issue that seems to keep cropping up no matter what I do. What make is your printer? I very much enjoy mine (it does a great job) but its software, installed on 2 of my single-CPU machines (1 laptop and and 1 desktop) manages (from time to time) to take over the host machines and spike CPU usage to 100%. Note that on 2- and 4-core machines it may be slightly less obvious as the usage will go to 50% and 25% respectively. This causes all sorts of nasty effects on other programs, of course - anything that requires significant amounts of CPU such as streaming video, or even serving up files for other devices on the network to play video, becomes degraded while this printer software sits in some unintended loop and overheats the CPU so badly I can burn my hand touching the body of the laptop. The only known cure is to use Task Manager (or Process Explorer) to kill the errant task which always restarts magically, this time without hogging the processor. Could something like this be the cause of the overheating? Sounds like things are a bit too late tho...... Seagate Momentus drives (at least fitted to anything resembling a PC) should be standard (Apple always does something different). I recommend getting a case to mount it in as an external drive (I just put a 300GB Momentus in one) such as one from Rocketfish. If you buy the right laptop (which is pretty cheap if you go to IBM and buy a refurbished Lenovo, for example) you may even be able to put that drive as a SECOND hard disk on a caddy in place of the DVD, as Syrius mentions. Quite possibly getting all your data off it without reformatting, too. Hope this helps.

How quaint and amusing. Not everyone shares your view.

Richard will be posting a poll to elicit user feedback on the issue(s) raised here, shortly. Here it is:

Hahahah you are in Canada, no wonder. Generally there are lots more choices in the USA (and Canada) for things like this, but I was assuming you needed the 230V model.

I realise you'll have to find some way of getting it to Qatar from the UK, but how does this look to you: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sony-STR-DB940-5-1-Channel-110-Watt-Receiver-with-3-Eltax-speakers-/181480213147?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Home_Cinema_Receivers&hash=item2a41104a9b Forget 7.1, 5.1 is plenty good enough no matter how complex a system you eventually want. This one has optical in and out.

Especially, compressed audio (SP seems mostly exempt, thanks to good engineering and plenty of spare data to paper over the gaps) seems to benefit from the upsampling (usually internally to 192kHz) that happens with the optical output from LP2 and LP4. If you don't need the greater clarity by all means go ahead with plan A. Seems a shame to us MD nuts, though. I would go for something older (is second hand an option for you????) or more expensive that has optical (or coax digital) input. The problem of getting optical out from your MD deck you can deal with later (either by getting a deck that has it, or by :fixing: your JE480). Stephen

I'd try to establish a digital to digital connection for the purposes of playback. Does the DH130 support digital (optical TOSlink) in? If so then you need to do the well-documented mod to the 480 to get optical output.

Sorry to split hairs but I would prefer to un-confuse OP, Jimma. The DISK never gets erased. However if you erased the Table Of Contents (TOC) so that recorders/decks say "Blank Disk" when you insert it, you should be ok, which is what Jimma is saying. However you guys missed something. We need to know the model number of the MD machine. Chances are it's "legacy" MD, rather than Hi-MD. If the latter, only big bucks to Sony will get the data back, and maybe not even then. Stephen

It will indeed. I just checked that, knowing that most of the other HiMD units it is also true for. Where did you look for LIP-4WM? I might try yahoo.co.jp. However as with most japanese sites you will need a proxy bidding service unless you read Japanese (translation by Google is not good enough, you also need someone to take delivery IN JAPAN). Two I can recommend are rinkya.com and buyee.jp

You may want to get an NW-F886 or similar. The Japanese model actually plays ATRAC. To fix your gumstix you need the right charger. It's not the battery's fault.

Sounds good. Seriously at Sony prices ur not doing too bad. Especially since you bricked it.

OK fair enough. If you've actually done this, then your logic is irrefutable. I thought I might raise the point, sorry.

As he says, these parts are essentially unavailable. However, it's not impossible that the various reported OLED failures (dimness, essentially) are the result of overall power adjustments being needed. I took a peek in the service manual and there's nothing specific about adjustments for the OLED board, just something about replacing the whole board. But with a number of other models (ie NOT the MZ-RH1) whose displays could not be read, I found that problem to go away on the first or second power adjustment on the list - ie the entire machine is running on low voltage.

I think the simple answer of Yes is well in agreement with the tradition we have built up here. S.

As of now, all postings of someone's own eBay auctions are forbidden, and will be deleted. Retroactively, it may not be worth the effort. The purposes of the classifieds section is to allow members to trade items between themselves, not to create links to commercial sites such as eBay for any purpose. Exceptions will be made from time to time, e.g. Jim Hoggarth (who has never advertised here) will be permitted to speak about his business as he is considered a "Respected eTailer". One of the reasons for doing this is that auction links go out of currency very quickly, so we would prefer not to clutter up the site with dead links.

We know that, Chris. However we don't want to read about it any more. Thanks Stephen

After some consideration, it has been decided that discussion in the sections (except "Classified") that is deemed or perceived to be for the purposes of promoting sales (particularly eBay and other auctions which are the auctions of a member selling his own property) is henceforth considered to be not in the spirit and taste of the forums here. Chris, please stop these kinds of postings..... or else.

Jim Hoggarth's your best bet.... but he's been under the weather lately and you may have to wait a very long time. I could attempt it, but it's rather a pain to send to the other side of the world. Or you can learn. But you'll need some gear, and some knowledge about how to make test disks. Sorry, only bad things can happen if you start messing with it in its present state at random. There is, I believe NO quick fix to undo what you just did.

You need the 64-bit NetMD driver posted in almost the same place as Sonic Stage. You'll get a warning about the driver not being signed...... something scary like "STOP".... and you can ignore it.