Mystyler

Chris, this usually occurs when the magnetic head has died. It is the unit at fault and not the disc. It is just the TOC that is changed. Just for fun I've "erased" a disc in my deck and them pulled the power (performs TOC edit prior to ejection). When I turn it back on my disc magically has all my music back on it!

Yes, Sony (Or others, license out the tech!) should make both of these...how about a HiMD "MDS-E13" deck? Yum!

That mean it cannot detect a digital signal. Check that your optical cables are connected properly, or if you are recording from an analogue source, ensure that your deck is set to record via it's line inputs.

Sparky191, it's not about making them louder per se, rather making them as loud as each other.

Oh my. Looking forward to some firm details, that is for sure.

Alex, The DS8 you mentioned would require that you have a unit capable of recording or "downloading" music to MD first, so that one won't help you. You'd want a new HiMD model, and I'm sure that there are some that will fit your needs/budget - I'm just not really up with HiMD. If it's oldschool you want, then I can be much more help!

The two devices you mention have been discontinued due in part to NetMD and HiMD. Basically, they let you "download" (record in real-time) songs from PC, or "upload" (record in real-time) to PC. If my memory is correct (no one has mentioned Xitel or Edirol for a long time!!), then all you need to accomplish the same as they would have, is some PC recording software, a soundcard with line in, and a lot of time to spare.

Only having a single XP account on my PC, and only ever used M-Crew that way, I'll go out and say that it is probably a Windows problem and nothing to do with M-Crew itself. May sound like a dumb answer to your question, but I don't recall any DRM in the M-Crew software which leads me to think the above...?

As far as I'm aware, the last CD/MD combo deck made by Sony was 2003, named the MXD-D400. It is a single CD/MD combo, and 4x dubbing is the fastest it supports. I'm not sure about US availability, nor price. I would say that ringing up/browsing through some electronics stores would be your best bet. Either that or Ebay - I'm sure there would be some popping up from time to time there. You might even get lucky and find an MXD-D5C 5 CD changer MD combo!

Hello Rock, Scratch the R55 off your list, that unit is from 1998 and, while could still do the job, there are far better models out there. Not really being in the loop when it comes to NetMD or HiMD, I'll stay with what I know, and others who are more knowledgeable with the two newer MD technologies can help out there. Simply put, if you want to do live recording, try and scout a Sharp model. They are usually cheaper than Sony's comparable models, and do the job just as well, if not better. Something like a Sharp MD-MT180 or MT270 should cost you peanuts these days, and do what you ask of it above perfectly. Of course, any MD recorder with a mic and line input can be used for microphone and mixer board recordings. In order to get your live recordings to the PC, you will need some recording software, and it must be done in real-time. This is for all non HiMD units. If you can only find the models you have listed above, I'd be getting the MZ-N710, because it would do the job without costing you too much.

Being completely unfamiliar with the NH3D, if it has a clip-on AA case, clip it on and try powering the unit from that, purely as a, "see if it works".

Is it a DG2? If so, you don't need a CD or manual. :smile:

Nah - I've always recieved my ferrites unclipped. It is quite simple to put on - just run the cord through it, then loop the cord once around the core and back through. Then clip together.

:grin: No, it is not quite that simple. :rasp: You'd basically need a kit from Radioshack (unless you were a full techy and had the parts in your tool kit) and solder that together, or just buy a complete one. Usually, you get what you pay for, especially for the assembled preamps.

I know it states in the Sharp manual not to use rechargeable batteries in the external AA case. :rasp: This is your problem, from my secret Sharp FAQ: Q Can I use rechargeable NiCd batteries ? A With regard to the use of Ni-Cd rechargeable batteries, the simple answer to this question is one of a suitable power supply. Most rechargeable AA cells will provide 1.2v only, whereas non-rechargeable cells offer 1.5v per cell. This is required to power the unit. The external 1.5v battery pack is not used in isolation to the internal 1.2v battery, as can be seen from the operation manual. The external battery is connected in parallel with the internal battery during use and provides charge for the internal battery. The internal battery acts as a ballast for the external battery and power is taken from both at the same time. This arrangement means that the external battery can cope with instantaneous power demands that exceed its capability if used in isolation. This arrangement will not work if both batteries have the same potential i.e. 1.2v and internal resistance, it could be possible that the internal battery could end up providing charge for the external battery hence not recommended ! Yes, I know it relates to NiCds, but NiMH cells are the same, and you can get away with using rechargables sometimes. But it seems that your unit really doesn't like the idea, and cannot get enough juice (which makes sense), so decides to shut itself off. Also, using rechargeables in the external battery case will shorten the lifespan of the "internal" rechargeable, as it will try to charge the external battery pack, when the reverse is meant to happen! :smile:

I dunno, technology scares me. :wacky: If you reckon it would be alright, then go for it. :rasp:

To listen to your recordings through your kitchen stereo, (assuming it has a line in jack, most do) simply get hold of an analouge patch cable, put one end into your MD's headphone jack, turn the volume up to max and plug the other end into your stereo's line in. Simple! Some stereos require you to select "Line" or "Aux" mode so you can hear the music, so check this too.

I like trolls. :laugh: What is RSS, I read the article and it now makes even less sense, which is pretty hard because there was none to begin with?

If you use a soundboard, I'd suggest recording direct from that. :happy:

At the moment, I believe that the software allowing you to upload live recordings from Hi-MD units isn't shipping, but will at a later date. If you need a unit right now, get the Sharp, it will not disappoint. You can still "upload" and burn to CDs with non Hi-MD units, except it needs to be done in real-time. If you are happy with that, there is no need for Hi-MD. :smile:

Sorry if I don't follow, but you want to have the gaps between the tracks being played on Winamp to be there on the disc you are recording? I take it you are getting "gapless" playback on the MD? If that didn't make much sense, just try this anyway: If Sync Rec is on, try turning it off.

MDs are known to fragment the more you use them (record), but echoing those above, it sounds as if your unit is on the way out. Do you have access to another unit to playback your discs, peanutismint, to determine for sure whether it is the unit or discs at fault?

If my memory is right, what you need is a microphone pre-amp, to which you connect a microphone (obviously ) and then feed it into the line input of the N505. If you know what you are doing, you could knock one up with a 9V battery and soldering iron. If not, you can buy pocket-sized ones. All microphones nee dpower of some sort. The ones that "don't need" batteries operate off power supplied by the unit that is recording. Minidisc recorders with Mic In have Plug In Power, which supplies 1.5V to power the microphone. However, some microphones require more power to operate, and can be run off batteries or Phantom Power, which I believe delivers up to 48V to the mic.

For what it is worth, I'd suggest against a Sony replacement, simply because I found them twice the price and twice the size of generic brands.

About $50-$75US, I guess. I wouldn't imagine paying more though, but $100US is not too unreasonable if it is NIB or mint condition. No more than $100US though, I'd be sticking to the $50-$75 bracket.